anyone want to share a good DIY set up for having 3000/500 psi at their bench?
making 500 psi...
- Thread starter rhwestfall
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
Zeagle Eagle
Contributor
?
- Messages
- 20,663
- Reaction score
- 15,190
- # of dives
- I'm a Fish!
this is the ghetto way of doing it.
Take one end of a fill whip with 1/4"npt threads on it
Din Fill Adapter w/ 1/4" female NPT Fitting "Nitrox Ready
like that
and attach it to a welding regulator. Then take an old tank valve and where the dip stick goes, tap that for 1/4" NPT. You now have a valve outlet fed by a 1/4" NPT hose. This allows you to use a standard welding regulator, and then when you need the full pressure, you attach the regulator you are working on directly to the tank.
Item # 1575-5000, 1575: Reducing Regulator Rated to 7000 PSI Working Pressure On Aqua Environment Co., Inc.
Ideally you use that, and do the right thing and put gauges on both sides of it, but now you're in for a $400 setup instead of a $150 setup... Nice thing with this reg is you can check any IP changes throughout the pressure range, but again, it's damned expensive. If you are in a "shop" setting where you just have a HP feed line, then use that, but for those of us doing a few regs at home, do all of them at the low pressure side, then remove and attach them directly to the tank. Or keep a spare tank and swap back and forth
Take one end of a fill whip with 1/4"npt threads on it
Din Fill Adapter w/ 1/4" female NPT Fitting "Nitrox Ready
like that
and attach it to a welding regulator. Then take an old tank valve and where the dip stick goes, tap that for 1/4" NPT. You now have a valve outlet fed by a 1/4" NPT hose. This allows you to use a standard welding regulator, and then when you need the full pressure, you attach the regulator you are working on directly to the tank.
Item # 1575-5000, 1575: Reducing Regulator Rated to 7000 PSI Working Pressure On Aqua Environment Co., Inc.
Ideally you use that, and do the right thing and put gauges on both sides of it, but now you're in for a $400 setup instead of a $150 setup... Nice thing with this reg is you can check any IP changes throughout the pressure range, but again, it's damned expensive. If you are in a "shop" setting where you just have a HP feed line, then use that, but for those of us doing a few regs at home, do all of them at the low pressure side, then remove and attach them directly to the tank. Or keep a spare tank and swap back and forth
WarrenZ
The Ultimate Bad Example
Full pony / almost empty pony? Thats what I use.
Last edited:
halocline
Contributor
If all you need to do is check IP at various tank pressures, just start with a full tank, pressurize your reg, turn the valve off, and bump the purge or take light breaths until the tank gets down to the pressure you need.
If you need to drive a regulator at low tank pressures, the easiest thing to do is to keep a spare tank around near empty, and transfill (you can use two regulators and a HP hose with a DIY adapter to do this) to the pressure you need.
If you need to drive a regulator at low tank pressures, the easiest thing to do is to keep a spare tank around near empty, and transfill (you can use two regulators and a HP hose with a DIY adapter to do this) to the pressure you need.
Pao
Contributor
I transfill a pony to the desired pressure.
Similar threads
