Magnehelic Workbench Stand

[gratefulmjc]

Magnehelic Stand on Makerworld.

I don't have space on my workbench wall to mount my Dwyer 2003 Magnehelic at eye level and I've grown tired of crouching to get to eye level when the Magnehelic is standing vertically on my workbench. And staring down at it when it is laying horizontally on my workbench doesn't really work either. So I made an adjustable-tilt Magnehelic stand to position my Magnehelic in a good line of sight when I am setting 2nd stage cracking effort.

When I positioned my Magnehelic on a slant, I had to re-zero it. When on a slant, by comparing its reading to that of my DIY manometer, the Magnehelic maintains its accuracy to my eye (at least to the degree that I need). However, FYI, Dwyer's manuals say a Magnehelic should be mounted vertically.

You will need the following hardware:
- One #10-24 hex head bolt (3" long) to serve as the hinge pin & an associated wing nut. Tightening the wing nut will lock the desired tilt into place.
- Three #6-32 machine screws (5/16" long) to mount the Magnehelic to the stand.

 

[profmason]

Per Robert singler the gauge functions the same horizontally as vertically but will need recalibration via the small screw in the center. This came up this weekend as I also 3D printed a stand canted 15 degrees from vertical. I just press fit into the gauge OD but like how you used the screws to retain on the back. Happy 2nd stage tuning!

 

[Pearlman]

Strangely the Dwyer product blurb tells us to inform them in advance before ordering if the Magnahelic is not going to be mounted vertically.

 

[gratefulmjc]

Hi @profmason, thanks for pointing out the @rsingler thread...good to know that others have found accuracy doesn't suffer enough to matter in positions other than vertical.

At the risk of seeming like I'm quibbling over terms... I don't think that recalibration

...need recalibration via the small screw...

is what you meant but rather re-zeroing, which, as you mentioned, is done with the small screw at the bottom of the clear gauge cover.

I would be interested to see a pic or two of your stand...please post. I didn't consider your flush mount approach (and Dwyer does include the HW, now somewhere in a junk drawer in my workshop, for flush mounting). After printing my first design, I had to go back to the 'ol drawing board to make the front half of the base larger to get it to be stable when the gauge was at/near vertical. I'm thinking that your flush mount approach, which pushes the Magnehelic's center of mass rearward (which would be in the direction of the tilt used by the majority of people) would be inherently more stable. Great food for thought!