Hello fellow aquarists,
There is no single filtration or design method that I have found to be overwhelmingly superior in all situations, and every marine aquarium technical design has its limitations and drawbacks. One reason for the continual parade of new miracle products. or new ground-breaking techniques, is the desire to create new markets, to sell products, to generate revenue for the aquarium industry. This is not a bad thing, because without the industry, there would be few things available to the aquarist, including fish and the aquariums themselves. I am not dismissing all of the technology, becase some of it has been truly revolutionary. Advances in lighting for reef tanks is a good example. Even in areas where the technology has been around for decades, the development of products using these technologies that are available to the average consumer has benefitted all of us.
On the other hand, it's important to understand that there are very few really new things around, and that a lot of what you read is marketing strategy. Algae filtration systems have been used for at least a century. Wet-dry "bio-ball" filtration, protein skimming, foam fractionation, etc., are half-century old techniques that have some of their origins in sewage treatment technology. A lot of aquarium technology is borrowed or adapted from other fields, or has been around for a long time. I remember when the amonia-nitrite-nitrate cycle was touted in the aquarium literature as a great breakthrough. The basic science had been there for a long time, and had been used in waste water treatment for decades. It took a few insightful people to apply the technology to aquariums, since there is no significant scientific establishment devoted to improving aquarium technology. Most if what is available is adaptation, and packaging in formats that are easily consumer usable and marketed to the aquarium trade.
My point is that one should be cautious, perhaps even skeptical, when reading enthusiastic articles in any hobbiest magazine about new "revolutionary" methods, super products, etc. A lot of stuff in jars and bottles is sold by sharpies who know that inept or inexperienced aquarists are vulnerable to simplistic explanations for their aquarium problems.
" Are your fish lethargic, loosing their color, getting sick, dying? Just put this miracle trace element restorer, or vitamin booster, or special miracle formula in your tank, and voila! They will look as good as they do in the tanks of experienced aquarists!"
Or, it may be suggested, using one or another Joubert, live sand, refugia, super sand, trace element sludge, space-age filtration system will make all the difference. It is not so. A lightly populated fish-only tank with good water circulation, and regular water changes, can flourish with a simple undergravel filter, proper feeding, and the avoidance of additives, chemicals, accidental poisoning or stressors due to foolish meddling, or the introduction of diseased , incompatable, or inappropriate fish.
I like wet-dry filters with powerful pumps and strong water movement for fish-only tanks. Protein skimmers of HIGH QUALITY , a bit smaller than manufacturers recommendations, completes the fish-only system. I use a large water capacity undertank container for the wet-dry filter. A 55 gal tank sits under my 180 gal fish tand, and houses within it the 15 gallon capacity bio-ball container. An Iwaki 40 provides circulation, and two powerheads that cycle on and off provide additionl water circulation. Porous coral rock in the sump assist in nitrate reduction, as does the naturally developing inch deep of natural fine coral mud in the 55 gal refugia/wet-dry system. An outside the tank protein skiimmer (Aqua C 180) connects to the sump. In contrast, I have a 50 gal tank with a bio-wheel, and an air-powered skimmer that I use to breed clowns and a few other species, in the winter months. It serves as a holding tank for locally collected fish in summer. It is crystal clear, with near perfect water conditions. My reef tankis similar to my large fish-only tanks, only without the bio-ball filtration media. My 100 gal reef has a lot of live rock, plus about an inch of coral mud on the aquarium floor, and some in the 30 gal sump, which has no function other than to provide the overflow with a place to collect, and be pumped back by an Iwaki 30. A smaller (EV120) protein skimmer is connected to the sump. Four VHO ice-cap driven flourescents provide enough light to keep my hard coral growing, my coralimorphians increasing in size, and the whole system flourishing since 1988, with an improved protein skimmer, the removal of bio-ball media about 8 years ago, and the ever thickening bed of coral mud, the only changes in 15 years. This tank, BTW, has cured fish infested with protozoan parasites. There are also strange predators that live in the heavy rockwork that can make short work of unwary creatures.. The tank is alive with life, and is really fun to watch at night, when all sorts of swimming worms and crustaceans come out to play. Much of the coral rock was collected, piece by piece over more than 15 trips, in the Caribbean. Only the biggest pieces of live rock were purchased, when the was still great rock coming in from the Bahamas. This is my favorite aquarium, and my oldest still running. There has never been the slightest trace of nitrate in this tank, even though I do water changes only every three or four months, about 25%. The fish tanks get that amount every month. I use only Poly Bio marine mats as chemical filters, and these sparingly. I also use RO water for most water changes, especially in the reef tank. Otherwisw, my local water has too much phosphate, and causes diatom blooms.
I've written way too much. Let me summarize by saying that many methods work, if you keep populations light, are really choosy about what you put into the tank, keep the water moving, do frequent water changes (full salinity, btw), and set things up sensibly. The additive and medication route is a loosing proposition. Meddling is not good. Keep your hands out. One should also go very slowly in the begining, and place no reliance on magic, commercial or otherwise.
All these miracle potions are rediculous. I add nothing to my tank except freshwater for top up and food. If you keep up water changes etc, there is no need to add anything else.
