Loosening stuck hp hose

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lhpdiver

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I didn't think this was going to turn out to be a DIY task but - I purchased a used SP MK2 on ebay with 2 r190s and a gauge set. It has seen better days. I've gotten all the hoses off the MK2 except the HP hose. I have tried using all my strength (mechanical), tried running under hot tap water and then dunking in an ice bath (thermal) and using some of the anti-corrosion stuff I spray on my boat engines (chemical). No dice.

Any suggestions appreciated.
 
When I had that sort of problem getting the diaphragm off my Apeks first stage, I put the body of the first stage in a burly table-mounted rubber-lined vice and went at it. You might want to try this with the proper-sized wrench.
 
When I have this happen (not very often, but it does happen), I have a vice & I place the HOSE nut in the vice & turn the REGULATOR. You get a LOT more leverage doing it that way. Be sure to just snug up the hose nut in the vice. You don't want to CRUSH it. Snug is plenty. You can use a hammer handle, or the likes, through the yoke for leverage. Be careful or you can damage the yoke but if you can't use the reg now, what have you got to loose?

James
 
A regulator in that condition should probably get serviced at the dive shop and let them deal with the hose removal. It will most likely end up at the dive shop anyway unless you bought it for the hoses alone.

Good luck with it though thats gotta be torqued too tight or corroded.
 
I would not use high force. I'd continue hot and cold along with soaking. After the hot soak of the entire reg, just hit the HP hose nut with the cold (ice). That should open up a little clearance in the threads to allow solvent in nd break up the deposits. Patience is the key to saving it, not force. Hot/cold treatments and then let it soak in distilled water. Try 2 or 3 treatments a day for maybe a week. If you have to resort to brut force, you might end up with just a few spare parts for the other Mk2.
 
awap:
I would not use high force. I'd continue hot and cold along with soaking. After the hot soak of the entire reg, just hit the HP hose nut with the cold (ice). That should open up a little clearance in the threads to allow solvent in nd break up the deposits. Patience is the key to saving it, not force. Hot/cold treatments and then let it soak in distilled water. Try 2 or 3 treatments a day for maybe a week. If you have to resort to brut force, you might end up with just a few spare parts for the other Mk2.

The hose is off. Thanks !
 
I continued with the hot/cold treatments. as awap suggested I started putting the ice cube right on the hose tip. Finally I got rid of the adjustable wrench and used a fixed one. I wedged the reg body between two pieces of wood and just gave the wrench one good twist.

If anyone is interested in helping me through an MK2 restoration via email let me know. I have the schematic and there is a guy on ebay who says he has the service manual. I was thinking of maybe writing up the process with pictures along the way.
 
lhpdiver:
If anyone is interested in helping me through an MK2 restoration via email let me know. I have the schematic and there is a guy on ebay who says he has the service manual. I was thinking of maybe writing up the process with pictures along the way.
It's been a while since I have had to do mine but they don't get much easier. I believe you may want to do a bit more soaking to loosen up the yoke nut and body cap. Reinstall the HP hose and mount that nut in a vise to tackle the yoke nut and cap. When you get the body cap off, the piston with HP seat lift right out. Be careful not to mar the HP orifice which is built into the body. The HP seat pushes out thru the piston with a - I think I used the straight, blunt tipped pick. As I recall, that took a bit of work. Holler if I can help.
 
Thanks awap. BTW - I'm thumbing thru the PeterBuilt catalog. Do you know of an (cheaper) alternative to their "yoke nut socket" ?
 

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