Looking for suggestions regarding gauges for an occasional diver

[Tbar]

I agree that the computer gives you more flexibility. My main concern is that I don't dive often, and mostly just when I get the opportunity to go on vacation, which sadly, is not as often as I would like. Having a computer die on me during a dive, or just before a dive, means a significant loss in time, money, and effort if I have to cancel a dive (either during or at the last minute). I might only have 1 opportunity on a dive boat that year, and if my gear were to fail, then I'm SOL until next time, which could be years away. For this reason, I'm more interested in a more reliable set-up that will last me for many years.

I am not trying to 'sell' you on a computer, but I would say there is limited reason to say a computer is less reliable. That's why I commented on watch failure in my post above.
If you are worried about gear failure cause loss of dive, hire for from dive operator. That is probably the best way to ensure you are covered, if it fails they provide other equipment or refund you money.
What are you plans for your reg? Will it be serviced at some point, could it fail... I have had more reg/hose failures than computer failures.

Computer technology changes so rapidly...

There is no reason the computer would be obsolete. That is like saying the tables and gauges are obsolete. The computer basically measures time and depth and applies "tables" to determine nitrogen saturation. My view is the main feature that has become standard on recreational computers is nitrox.
The reason I use the Mares Puck is it was not expensive and is good for recreational diving.
Make sure the computer has a user replaceable battery and that it is a 'standard' battery. Many computers use the 2450 lithium battery. I would be worried with a rechargeable non-replaceable battery as it may deteriorate over your timeframe and not hold charge.
One feature that may be good is the timer for your safety stop.

I totally understand the benefits of computers, I'm just not sure if the economics buying a computer works in my particular situation where I'm happy to be using tables and having reliable gear that I know will work when I get there. With that all said, I think my idea set-up would be a traditional gauge (SPG and Depth on a console) set with a simple computer as a nicety, but not something that I'm relying on to be a primary system. With that in mind, I'm looking to get the gauges sorted first. Then, if I want to go with a computer, I can start thinking about that.

That sounds reasonable, but you have had to buy the depth gauge, and it will become redundant.
Once you dive the computer you will have longer bottom time than the tables predict. If the computer fails on a dive then it is difficult to go back to tables as the tables will predict much higher nitrogen than the computer give the square dive profile. I have worked this through with divers and a change from computer to tables between receptive dives (where the dives have been near to the computers NDL) either shows exceeding the tables or an extended SIT prior to the next dive.
The computer will, for most dive profiles, give you a longer NDL better value for your dive money... Happier buddies.

The original intent of the thread was to see what brands are considered good when it comes to mechanical gauges and what I should be looking for in a traditional gauge set. As an example, I was hoping someone would be able to say "avoid such and so brand" or "look for this feature". I think this thread has provided really good information in that regard concerning the SPGs and I'm not much more informed about what to be on the look out for.

I really don't want to get off track into the computer vs. traditional arguments, there's plenty of other threads for that.

Yes sorry I have gone where you clearly did not want to go, but only as I see this as the best option even if your diving is limited.

With regard to gauges:
Many comments on SPG above. I like smaller size and don't mind plastic in a boot.
I have used many brands of depth gauge and really they are much of a muchness. You need to treat then with some care (as too the SPG) as calibration can be impacted by a sharp hit/full.
As far as a timer goes I have used battery and clockwork watches. Must remember start the timer (digital) or set the bezel (analogue) when you leave the surface. And for analogue watch, catch the time when back at the surface, digital stop the timer.
If you plan to use a dive digital timer, with auto start and stop, then just get a computer

 

[diversteve]

my .02

I don't have a lot of use for a computer either - I resisted buying one until about 10 years ago. But now that they're so much cheaper, I don't see how you could go wrong getting one. I'm on my second now just because the first didn't have a user serviceable battery and it was almost cheaper to buy a new one than pay to send it in.

The Puck will do everything you need for $150, Nitrox, function as a bottom timer, time your safety stops etc. It can also be set to function as a bottom timer should you at some point do more advanced diving. User replaceable battery so I'd remove it between long intervals and replace it b4 you dive again. Plus the Puck takes a $2 CR2450 battery you can buy anywhere. And it's RGBM so compatible with a lot of better computers other divers may have. Mares Puck Wrist Computer

To that I'd personally add a booted spg on a hose. I don't get the fascination people have with the plain brass/glass, there's the potential for more scratching/breakage and you can get one booted for the same money.
Either Tusa or Genesis sell one for $65 - as mentioned above both probably made in the same place.

TUSA Platina Pressure Gauge, Imperial (SCA-120) might be discontinued now.
Genesis Pressure Gauge, Imperial - includes a temp. gauge.

Take your Apeks in for service and have them add it. Next time they'll probably change the spool/o-rings for free - my shop does.

I dive a set of Scubapro mini-gauges also, they're slightly smaller than standard and in a small console take up not much more room than a single spg. No longer marketed by SP but similar to this one - Cressi Mini 2 Gauge Console (Imperial) Tusa may still make a set also. On the extremely rare chance the computer failed during a dive, I have the option to continue at a shallower depth as I have the redundency in knowing my depth.

 

[Dermochelys]

my .02

I don't have a lot of use for a computer either - I resisted buying one until about 10 years ago. But now that they're so much cheaper, I don't see how you could go wrong getting one. I'm on my second now just because the first didn't have a user serviceable battery and it was almost cheaper to buy a new one than pay to send it in.

The Puck will do everything you need for $150, Nitrox, function as a bottom timer, time your safety stops etc. It can also be set to function as a bottom timer should you at some point do more advanced diving. User replaceable battery so I'd remove it between long intervals and replace it b4 you dive again. Plus the Puck takes a $2 CR2450 battery you can buy anywhere. And it's RGBM so compatible with a lot of better computers other divers may have. Mares Puck Wrist Computer

To that I'd personally add a booted spg on a hose. I don't get the fascination people have with the plain brass/glass, there's the potential for more scratching/breakage and you can get one booted for the same money.
Either Tusa or Genesis sell one for $65 - as mentioned above both probably made in the same place.

TUSA Platina Pressure Gauge, Imperial (SCA-120)
Genesis Pressure Gauge, Imperial - includes a temp. gauge.

Take your Apeks in for service and have them add it. Next time they'll probably change the spool/o-rings for free - my shop does.

I dive a set of Scubapro mini-gauges also, they're slightly smaller than standard and in a small console take up not much more room than a single spg. No longer marketed by SP but similar to this one - Cressi Mini 2 Gauge Console (Imperial) Tusa may still make a set also. On the extremely rare chance the computer failed during a dive, I have the option to continue at a shallower depth as I have the redundency in knowing my depth.

One set-up I have been considering is to go with a booted SPG on a hose (like let's say for the sake of argument the Genesis) and then adding a hose mounted depth gauge (like this one XS Scuba Hose Mount Depth Gauge). Add to that a computer like a Zoop or Puck and I think I would be well covered. However, I'm probably going to be looking at used gear mostly for my SPG / depth set-up, so knowing which brands / models are reliable and what qualities to look for is super helpful. With that said, it seems that there's not much difference in most brands other than the labels, as I have learned that most are made in the same factories with just different brand names stamped on the front.

In theory I like the mini gague idea, but I'm not sure how hard they would be to read. I think I would have to see one in person, and so far with all of the diving I've done (admittedly I'm not very experienced so that doesn't say too much) I haven't actually seen these in person so I don't really have a sense of how mini they really are.

 

[BertStevens]

In theory I like the mini gague idea, but I'm not sure how hard they would be to read. I think I would have to see one in person, and so far with all of the diving I've done (admittedly I'm not very experienced so that doesn't say too much) I haven't actually seen these in person so I don't really have a sense of how mini they really are.

I've been diving for 18 years with the same gauges. They last forever. But our eyes don't see as well as we age. Can you say bifocals? The point is, that while mini gauges sound fine now, they may be hard to read as you get older. That's why my recent purchase of a 2 inch SPG. No mini anything at my age!

 

[Tbar]

I still am struggling to understand, the Depth gauge linked costs $72. The Mares puck from Leisurepro Mares Puck Wrist Computer costs $149, just $77 more.

An SPG like this Cressi Mini SPG (Imperial) would be fine. Really you do not need to read the numbers you can tell near enough just by seeing the needle...

Both these are on sale

 

[AdivingBel]

$100 will get you a new depth/spg combo console usually with free shipping from online stores (maybe less if you catch a sale). I prefer the low profile ones. Any of the brand names are fine. Agree you may find a better price used on ebay etc., but at $100 with free shipping it's the low end of what you'll eventually spend on gear if you really get into it. Save the shopping/comparative stress for the expensive stuff. YMMV.

 

[Jim Lapenta]

Use your SPG and buy a used bottom timer on ebay or here. They come up for sale all the time. Sold under OMS or Uwatec label. Batteries are designed to last 10 years based on I think 50-75 dives a year. I have had one I bought used in 2005 and I still use it on every OW dive. here's two starting at 130 bucks. If that's for both it's a good price. Too much for one.

OMS bottom timers

 

[diversteve]

I've been diving for 18 years with the same gauges. They last forever. But our eyes don't see as well as we age. Can you say bifocals? The point is, that while mini gauges sound fine now, they may be hard to read as you get older. That's why my recent purchase of a 2 inch SPG. No mini anything at my age!

On land I wear progressive bi-focals plus I use 3.0 readers for computer work but I've never had a problem reading the mini-gauges u/w. They're not the little button gauges like you'd find on a pony - they're 1.5" in diameter. It's hard to tell but I think the gauge lenses magnify a little also.

 

[AdivingBel]

On land I wear progressive bi-focals plus I use 3.0 readers for computer work but I've never had a problem reading the mini-gauges u/w. They're not the little button gauges like you'd find on a pony - they're 1.5" in diameter. It's hard to tell but I think the gauge lenses magnify a little also.

So does the water. Just have to hold them at the correct distance. (in lieu of crazy eyes smiley I can't find anymore)