Leaky valve

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Tommymac

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Western Wisconsin
I have a 1954 US Divers tank with original valve. Tank cleaned and hydroed. Valve leaks at both outlet and J valve arm. Both plastic seals were in rough shape so they were replaced by new retro parts. Looks like the on off plastic seal is the same part number as the one on the reserve arm. The seals in the valve has remains of a thin lip around the seal, replacement parts are flat on both sides with no lip. Anyone know if there is an "O" ring fix. Ones I have tried thus far, have not fixed the leaks?? I would hate to replace the whole valve with one this tank didn't come with. renee 003.jpg
 
The valve experts will hop in in a moment. Yes, the valve can be repaired. That is a nice vintage set.

But, if possible, could you show a picture that the entire back plate is visible in, I have not seen one like that before, please. I am sure I am not the only one curious.

N
 
The backplate looks like Dacor's first one. I have two. They are hard to come by.
 
I was too....scarry how we all saw the same thing....more photos please.
 
The backplate looks like Dacor's first one. I have two. They are hard to come by.

If Mike is right (and he is most of the time) then this is the backpack that I had reharnesed for a friend a while ago. Here is the catalog listing from the 1961 Dacor issue.

Dacorbackpack001.jpg


One issue is that the shoulder strap and the waist strap are one piece. They slide through a D ring as can be seen here. And as a result, they slide, making the tank difficult to put on as the harness slips too easily. Maybe a MODIFICATION is in order.

Dacorbackpack002.jpg
 
What you are seeing on the old seals is what was formed from the way the valve is made where the seal seats. The new seals are flat on both sides. There are no O rings used. I am not sure where you are seeing the leak, both bonnet nuts on those valves are metal to metal seals with no type of gasket or O ring and you have to tighten them up pretty hard sometimes to get a seal. Use 6 point wrenches to avoid rounding off the hex and loosen and tighten them several times to reform the metal to metal seal. You can do this on the on/off bonnet nut with the tank full and the valve closed. You will have to empty the tank to do the bonnet nut on the J. I have never had one I couldn't get to seal but sometimes you have to work at it.
 
Thanks for the info. Nut on reserve end in bad shape, apparently someone tried to fix the problem previously with an adjustable wrench. Will have to see if some newer valves use the same nut. Bac pac looks identical to the Dacor. Don't see a name on it anywhere. I have another one of these missing half a band and straps. Will post more pictures tomorrow. I had been told it was a Healthways.
Tank just passed hydro, working pressure 2150, not 2250 and has the Rene stamp. Never seen a tank that rings like a bell with the slightest tap from a wrench like this one. I have 10 or so older steel 72's, but none can ring like this one..

Will post pictures of pac tomorrow.
 
Here are some pictures of the bac-pac. Its very heavy duty thick aluminum. The bands are in two pieces. One end hooks on the pac while the other end is bent over with a hole through the bend. This is where a bolt goes through and connects the other half of the band.
renee 001.jpgrenee 002.jpgrenee 004.jpg
 
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https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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