Lead Weights

[t1mm]

Came across 22kg of lead used for roofing out in my back garden. Since I was going to buy a set of them, I decided I might aswell make my own. A friend of mine has a 2kg mould. A couple of things I'd like to clear up first though:

Some of the lead has traces of cement on it. Will this just fall off when the lead melts and floats to the top? I think there might also be some tar on it.

What sort of pot do I need for melting the lead, or does it matter? One old pot I have is covered with that black stuff on the inside (non stick or something?)

Thanks for reading, answers highly appreciated!

Sean

 

[Bob DBF]

Cast Iron pots work the best, you can usually find them at garage sales cheap. Any imputities will float on the molten lead. Do it outside and safety first. If you have access to an Acetyline torch use a rosebud and it melts pretty quick.

Fire, deadly fumes, molten metal, it just dosen't get any better.

Bob
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You only need two tools in life – WD40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn’t move and should, use the WD40. If it shouldn’t move and does, use the Duct Tape

 

[JamesBon92007]

Cast Iron pots work the best, you can usually find them at garage sales cheap. Any imputities will float on the molten lead. Do it outside and safety first. If you have access to an Acetyline torch use a rosebud and it melts pretty quick.

Fire, deadly fumes, molten metal, it just dosen't get any better.

Bob
------------------------------------
You only need two tools in life – WD40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn’t move and should, use the WD40. If it shouldn’t move and does, use the Duct Tape

I'm feeling inadequate because I need three--I couldn't get along without my hot glue gun too!

I agree with the cast iron--I use a small, iron frying pan. I'm a bit more reckless though and do it on the stove with the exhaust fan on. I use an old teaspoon to remove the crap and toss it in an old tin can. There's a recent thread here about making weights that OP might want to read.

I suggest coating the finished weights with either boat paint or Dip-It although for me the Dip-It didn't hold up all that well. Paint is pretty easy to touch up but Dip-It helps keep the weights from sliding on the belt.

 

[hbhobby]

I just use a coleman stove outdoors and an old camping pot (that I don't eat from any more)

 

[cmburch]

My dad would use any old pot on the kitchen gas stove.

I am a little safer and use a propane stove outdoors. Cast iron is the best, but most pots will work.

Recall that plumbers use to sweat copper water pipes with lead in confined areas without any respirator protection. Also people in electronics do the same with lead based solders without any protection. Could it be that lead does not volatilize at these temperatures? There may be other impurities such as mercury or tar that may though, so have adequate ventilation. The tar may catch fire as well as any twigs/leaves.

I have heard of freedivers that have just cut to size then folded the metal up (It was new though) and put it in weight pockets.

 

[emoreira]

This has been widely discussed.
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/making-your-own-gear/327738-what-i-learned-diy-hard-weights.html

 

[scooba_steve]

something about melting lead scares me!!!

 

[NC Wreck Diver]

Came across 22kg of lead used for roofing out in my back garden. Since I was going to buy a set of them, I decided I might aswell make my own. A friend of mine has a 2kg mould. A couple of things I'd like to clear up first though:

Some of the lead has traces of cement on it. Will this just fall off when the lead melts and floats to the top? I think there might also be some tar on it.

What sort of pot do I need for melting the lead, or does it matter? One old pot I have is covered with that black stuff on the inside (non stick or something?)

Thanks for reading, answers highly appreciated!



Sean

Sean:

I have used molten lead in plumbing connections in years past. This was to attach soil lines together (sewer lines). YOU MUST MAKE SURE OF THIS!!!! Do not have any moisture in the ladel that you will dip into the molten lead, to pour into the molds. And, make sure there is NO MOISTURE in the molds themselves. In either case, it will boil in less then a second, and blow to the point of a large splash, all over you. The burns will be extremely severe!!! Wear a welder's apron, welders gloves, a full plastic face mask and a respirator. Lead fumes are highly toxic when it is molten.

As far as the plumber guys that used to use 90/10 tin lead (10% lead), without the proper venting, go find one and ask them about it. I'll bet there aren't too many to question. It is now mandated that solder for plumbing connections of copper pipe be 100% lead free.

I work in electronics, and it is now mandated that the majority of the world use lead free processes during soldering of electronic boards. Batteries are the exception, because our technology still can not make the most efficent batteries without lead (Google RoHS). We now use SAC 305 (Nothing to do with 'SAC RATES').

I believe the cement will float, so you should be able to skim this and despose of it. But disposal is a real issue. No waste hauler that I know of will want to handle this hazmat if they know about it. If you throw it out, it WILL end up in a landfill somewhere.

Ask yourself this.............for the cost of lead weights, is this really worth the issues? Just go buy them in a LDS. You're really asking for trouble is you don't know EXACTLY what you are doing.

 

[Sik_Z33]

Use an outdoor stove with a cast iron pan for the cheapest set up. Long bbq or welding gloves are a must, along with jeans, closed toe shoes, and some type of face guard. A torch would help to get things moving along quicker.

 

[Indian Valley Scuba]

Gosh so scary! We've made our own lead weights for years! I don't think we're gonna stop now.