latest SM set up with pics - for anyone getting started it may help....or not

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I am an instructor with Aqua Sport rick. I'll thank you for Charlene for buying your Stealth from her. Please pm me if you have any other questions or problems regarding the set up. It looks like you're on the right path with your thinking.

We are a dealer for all of the major brands. I've set them all up. Dive Rite, Hollis, xDeep, Razor, UTD, HOG. I even built BCDs with the MSR bag before the current sidemount craze hit. We are a Halcyon dealer also, but I haven't put my hands on a Contour yet. My assumption is that it will dive the same as the HOG and SMS75. With all these choices, I have settled on the Stealth as my personal rig and the one I use to teach in. I have a garage full of other rigs that either sit there or get used in the pool.
 
Then he's going to have issues shallow also, not just at depth tbone. Remember, the majority of compression happens shallow. If we look at that theoretical upside down glass full of air. It compresses to 1/2 at 33 feet, 1/3 at 66 feet, 1/4 at 99 feet. The change is much greater going from 0-33 feet, than from 66-99 feet or 99-132 feet. If he's overweighted, he should notice it shallow. I think the majority of drysuit divers are diving a trilaminate of some sort. The actual drysuit doesn't compress. Your drysuit underwear does, but I'm assuming you're adding air to it to offset squeeze as you descend. The only thing on you that you're not equalizing as you descend is your hood. Take a slightly deeper breath if thats going to throw you over. It's a different story if you're diving wet in a 14mm wetsuit.

I'm not advocating diving overweighted, but I stand by my statement: A wing that has 35lbs of lift at 10 feet has 35lbs of lift at 100 feet. I'm pretty sure the laws of physics backs me up on this one.

The targets keep changing, but remember his original statement was that the Stealth did not have enough lift for diving Worthington tanks, especially at depth. For me, his logic is quite flawed. Dive a balanced rig and it's more than adequate. How much does 200 cubic feet of air weigh?

I just love it when folks try to circumvent the laws of physics LOL.

Ignoring the rule of 1/3's for a moment (assuming a non-over head environment) a diver must start his dives over weighted.
Each 80 cu/ft tank will loose 5/6 x 80 x 0.8 lbs/cu ft= 5.3 aprox 5 (assume full tanks at 3000 psi, & exit at 500 psi).
Double tanks(twin or sidemount) = 10 lbs
and 200 cu ft x.08= 16 lbs.

Mike D
 
I have been responding to specific comments.

a) It was stated that you must use a butt plate to dive steels. I've presented video evidence to the contrary. And then like an ex-wife, you ignored the evidence and brought up a different topic (trim and cylinder manipulation) ...

Something doesn't compute. Appreciated posting the clip, commented that some seem to have similar trim issues as OP in the clip, why not all solutions are viable if they hinder actual diving practice (donning/doffing cylinder in horizontal trim) -- it's what underlies Hogarthian rigging -- shows unrelated clips of pushing (it seems) AL tanks in overhead restriction, etc. The terms "specific" and "logic" seem to have different meanings. And why drag in the ex-wife in a discussion on sidemount trim? I'm not unsympathetic to ex-wives and all, but with running to the garage to check if the wing says 30 lb lift at 10 feet or 50 feet, hmmm... Yea, normally I would chalk this as a figure of speech but not so sure in this instance.

In any event, I managed to step on a pile of unsavory stuff but made an effort to give the benefit of the doubt. No productive purpose served stepping in it around further.
 
I am an instructor with Aqua Sport rick. I'll thank you for Charlene for buying your Stealth from her. Please pm me if you have any other questions or problems regarding the set up. It looks like you're on the right path with your thinking.

she was great. and thx for the offer to help. i may just take you up on that
 
Bada, I'm assuming when you say that you "managed to step in a pile of unsavory stuff" that you're saying I'm shovelling a pile of crap. And that you're also saying that I'm the one that is not being specific or logical. With that, I'll defend my position.

Your position was that you "must" use a butt plate to dive steel tanks with the Stealth and that it wasn't enough lift to dive Worthingtons. I presented both the theory (Archimedes principle) as well as the practical application (video of actual people diving without butt plates using steel tanks and Worthingtons) to refute that. I think that was specific and logical.

You then altered the argument into implying that I had no knowledge of overhead environment, manipulating tanks and you introduced trimming al80s. I think you are also implying that I have no knowledge of Hogarthian rigging.

So you have the same amount of air in your wing at 10 feet as at 100 feet? And without using your drysuit as a buoyancy control device (i.e., putting in just enough air to alleviate squeeze and add a bit of warmth)?



Thanks for posting the video.

I'm getting the sense that some of the confusion stems from "open water SM" that may not fully consider that the myriad of drills should be doable in horizontal trim. It's not about looking pretty while gliding along when not task loaded. If that were the criterion, you could solve the AL80 tail floating problem by tying a rope between the cam bands across your belly and the cylinders will stay put when gas gets depleted. That's not considered an adequate solution since the rope attachment itself becomes a potential safety factor when the cylinders need to be manipulated under water. Hence other Hogarthian solutions are preferred. Keep these factors in mind when stating that you have solutions to this and that.

To defend my position, I posted video of myself in a overhead environment, task loaded, manipulating tanks, diving with al80s. I still think I'm being specific and logical, and that I'm responding to the criteria that you yourself have set out.
You've used the term"Hogarthian" more than once, so I'll answer in this way: What is more hogarthian about the way you dive as opposed to the way I dive? Is a butt plate hogarthian? Is swinging tanks forward hogarthian? Because from my cave and tec courses, I was taught hogarthian was a streamlined way to dive backmounted manifolded doubles. Nothing at all about butt plates. I do strive to ensure that I follow all the tenets of tec diving though.

Let's back up for a moment though. Why did I ask how much 200 cubic feet of air weighed?
If you remember from your open water course, how does one check for proper weighting? Holding a normal breath, with an empty bcd, you should be floating at eye level. When you exhale, you should slowly sink. If you do this at the beginning of your dive, you need to add 5 pounds to account for the air that you will use from your tank. This 5 pounds was based on the assumption that you're diving an al80.
If we apply this concept to diving with two hp100s: Others have answered that 200 cubic feet of air weighs approximately 16lbs. So, if I'm floating at eye level, holding a normal breath, with an empty bcd at the start of my dive, I need to add 16lbs to account for the air that I'm going to be using. I will therefore need a minimum of 16lbs of lift in my bcd to offset this extra weight.

The Stealth 2.0 has 35lbs of lift. You should be able to dive properly weighted with 200 cubic feet of air. You should still go through all the procedures to ensure that you're properly weighted though. The open water course lays the foundation to safely continue your dive career. We shouldn't ignore the principals from it just because we have a cert card from a higher level. For me, that's complacency. And complacency is a very dangerous thing when we are diving in the water.

One GIANT disclaimer: Do not dive in overhead environments, or remove your tanks to squeeze through anything, unless you have received the proper training. One needs to know the proper responses for silt outs, being stuck, and equipment failures that have a higher chance of occurring.

The "ex-wife" comment was a joke saying that you're not staying on point in the argument. The "lift bag" was to say that even manufacturers are applying the same criteria for calculating lift that I'm using. I apologize. Sometime humour and sarcasm don't translate well over the internet. My bad!
 
weather looks good for tomorrow. picked up two tanks today. switched all the tank clips to the smaller ones i have. moved the tank bands up toward the neck a couple of inches. gonna give that whirl. will be solo in the water but might have a way of taking some video. if it works out i'll upload tomorrow and see if things look any better
 
a few quick thoughts, with apologies if others have already said the same, and all due respect for divers with different opinions -

1. stainless steel bands, if you must use them, should be used in pairs so if one fails you're not out of luck.

2. I like butterfly bolt snaps for the lower band

3. the zip tie - o ring - zip tie will surely work, but seems unnecessary. I use thin black zip ties from walmart to attach the snap right to the swivel and they break away easily with a good firm tug.

4. Must be your agency's standards and I'm sure there are good reasons for it, but myself I don't understand 2x5' hoses...I use a 32" and a 7'.

5. I like a braided short hose so I can feel which one I'm on without looking or tugging (though I guess that wouldn't work with gloves).

happy diving!
 
@Aotus, have you seen one of these bands fail without notice that you are giving that advice?
Wondering, because I use them and I trust them more than I trusted my cam-band... Or do you have cam bands in pair as well?
Thanks for your reply!
 
I have not. I was convinced by my instructor who made the point that stainless steel will not show stress before failure. So the thought process is that visual inspection will be adequate for cam bands but not for the ss whatever-they're called (sorry, getting tired). In any case, a second ss band only costs another dollar or two and then you're totally covered.
 
Just a quick vid of me from this morning, probably won't help anyone since we don't see much, but if anyone has a suggestion to improve it, feel free to. Sorry for the take-over, though I think it's a good thing to show what I do, gives a bit of "weight" to what I state.

Sorry about the bad quality, I got it sent by email after the guy had already sent it to me through PM on facebook because I couldn't download it there, didn't dare to ask him to upload it a 3rd time somewhere in HD.

[video=youtube;riUWSuj-I2c]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=riUWSuj-I2c[/video]
Roughly 130 bars in the tank I think at the 2nd part of the video, there's about 180 on the first part.

I already know about the torch hanging, I'm taking care of that as soon as I get a good idea of where and how to put it.
 

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