carribou
first off anybody at a photo processor who slams another film losses my respect and business(have done that more then once), becaues most likely this guy does nothing but feed the film into the machine with it set to auto correct and probably doenst know how to manuelly adjust the images(indivdually) to get the balance right(this is similar to what kodak does).
first off once the film has been devolped you cant run the images through kodak sea processing, you can try from negatives but i havent done that yet, as kodak see processing is specially hand done from start to finish (do a search on sea processing and you should find a older post of mine about the processing and how its done)
as for films i have used, i mainly i use is slide for underwater and above(even though its been over a year since i shot a roll of slide underwater) and i use Fuji Velva 100, Kodack Ektachrome 100, S, or VS or Elite Chrome (or extra color all iso 100) now for print films i use is fuji NPH (iso400) or NPS (iso160) or kodak . yes(ISO 100 ) it is a slow film but with a strobe it doesnt matter, without the strobe i would go with a 400 speed film kodak EPN or supra 400 or fuji NPH .
but one warning about slide is that it has less exposure latitude then print film which means colors will wash/be blown out quicker so you have to slightly underexpose or hit the exposure dead on
you might notice these films i mentioned are all considered pro films and not consumer films,but this is what i prefer because the color is the same from roll to roll and batch to batch, as i shoot alot of film for normal/personal use and for school since im a photography major,. I dont hold anything against normal (whats considered consumer) films as i use them to but with professional films the color will be the same from batch to batch and are shipped ready to go to be exposed or need to be stored in a refrigerator till being used, where with consumer films they are from the same base set up but are shipped atlittle green because most of the time they will sit on the shelf for a couple of months in a store and will be ready or optimized 3-12 months after production, the result of this is a slight color shift in the image or a little less saturation, but this is where the normal labs corrections come into play that most people dont even notice as most people arent aware of how film is processed anyways. For me when i get film processed i tell them no corrections at all because i wnat to see where i messed up, and also a base point for when i photoshop it.
the regular(consumer) films i like are kodak supra, fuji reala, and superia in most speeds from 100-800
nowif you want to have the prints redone have the processor turn down the cyan(blue) levels and increase the Magenta(Red), and to only uses the yellow level as a last resort till it balances out. but they cant apply the same settings for a photo that was taken at 15 feet then one taken at 80, its a image by image basis.
for what its worth the money i spend on kodak sea processing is a whole lot better then having to get my prints redone because of automatic corrections or sitting there to make sure they do it correctly (ie no walmart, target, sams or costco)
FWIW
Tooth
