Ok, first of all, you should have your name on your cylinders, and the mod of the gas, along with Nitrox stickers. Secondly, 300 bar regs are very common. Where are you diving???
K-Valve on Steel
- Thread starter G-lock
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
Ok, first of all, you should have your name on your cylinders, and the mod of the gas, along with Nitrox stickers. Secondly, 300 bar regs are very common. Where are you diving???
Yeah, just talked to Tom Ivey today. I guess the confusion over the "200 bar" Din valve comes from Europe. According to Tom at PST, the thermo DIN/K valve is good for up to 230 bar (3442 psi). No matter which you use, the yoke or the din.
The "200 bar" style of DIN valve is safe and is strong enough to use with these cylinders.
The Chairman
Chairman of the Board
that the 300 bar DIN is "stronger" than the 200 bar DIN and that is an erroneous belief. The loing/short configuration was not to provide more strength, but to keep regulators that were only rated to 230 BAR off of 300 BAR tanks. As there are very few regs (if any) that are only rated to 230 BAR anymore, it is a moot point. The weak point in these regs is NOT the DIN threads... it is the small fitting that attaches the DIN threads to the regulator housing.
Shrewd move by PST though... very shrewd.
Shrewd move by PST though... very shrewd.
In areas where I have to actively seek out DIN tanks. By far the overwhelming majority of tanks and regs I've seen in North America were yokes.
DIN regs tend to be owned by divers who own DIN tanks. As a generalization, people who own both are more experienced and know better than to grab a strange tank. YMMV.
I see no need to mark my doubles, and MOD stickers seem sufficient for stages. If I start diving singles again, I would use the nitrox stickers you mentioned.
Ok, I win the "idiot (or dummy, take your pick) of the day" award...
Here I'm asking for the higher pressure rating in writing and all I had to do was go look at my "200" bar manifolds... There is is, plain as day, "232 Bar" stamped right on the ScubaPro valves bigger'n life! The Dive-Rite manifold has no rating stamped on it but it's clearly as robust as the ScubaPro. Checked my DIN/Yoke "H" valves and they too are stamped "232 Bar."
Bottom line, the "E" series tanks are perfectly OK (as LUBOLD, Pescadore and NetDoc have said) with the convertible DIN/Yoke "K" valves.
Rick
Here I'm asking for the higher pressure rating in writing and all I had to do was go look at my "200" bar manifolds... There is is, plain as day, "232 Bar" stamped right on the ScubaPro valves bigger'n life! The Dive-Rite manifold has no rating stamped on it but it's clearly as robust as the ScubaPro. Checked my DIN/Yoke "H" valves and they too are stamped "232 Bar."
Bottom line, the "E" series tanks are perfectly OK (as LUBOLD, Pescadore and NetDoc have said) with the convertible DIN/Yoke "K" valves.
Rick
Similar threads
