Issues with DIR gear configuration

[Dr.Mattito]

I have been reading the DIR fundamentals book and it has made me realize that I should adopt much of this technique. For example, I tried out a Halcyon Pioneer setup this weekend and am now angry at all the other scuba manufacturers for ever pushing a jacket style BC. I was in the water about 3 minutes when I made the decision to never go back to jacket style again. The stability of a BP+W is incredible and at the surface I just flipped onto my back and it felt like I was lounging on a raft in the pool.

I do have a couple of questions or issues with DIR however...

First, the spring straps for fins. I was diving with my buddy in an area where there is a bit too much sea grass. I noticed that it was ensnared in his springs near where they attach to the fin (he did have a tube that enclosed most of the spring). I however, still dive with my trusty Plana Avantis from the Reagan administration, which include the original straps. I didnt have any problem with the sea grass. Does going DIR require that I get rid of my trusty entanglement free straps and go with that type of set up?

The other question I have is about the harness system. From what I understand, the continuous harness is designed to minimize points of failure. However, if the webbing were to get cut, this would render the entire harness completely useless.

I understand that plastic snaps and buckles could break under strain, but if I used metal buckles like on a Hogarthian harness, but on a three strap harness (one for each arm and one around the waist) wouldnt this eliminate total harness failure if one part of the harness were to be cut?

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

 

[JamesP]

If you do not want spring straps then don't go there. I know of one GUE Instructor that does not use them and it did not detract from the diving in any shape or form.

As far as the harness goes it must be a single piece of webbing. Forget the snaps. Do not introduce failure points or snag hazards to the system. The webbing that I have have on my backplate(s) have hundreds of dives on them and is still fine. You would be hard pressed to find something that will cut it underwater. If the webbing is cut for any reason, it is easily replaces for approx $15.00. That is probably cheaper then the snaps you are planning to buy. Enjoy

I do have a couple of questions or issues with DIR however...

First, the spring straps for fins. I was diving with my buddy in an area where there is a bit too much sea grass. I noticed that it was ensnared in his springs near where they attach to the fin (he did have a tube that enclosed most of the spring). I however, still dive with my trusty Plana Avantis from the Reagan administration, which include the original straps. I didnt have any problem with the sea grass. Does going DIR require that I get rid of my trusty entanglement free straps and go with that type of set up?

The other question I have is about the harness system. From what I understand, the continuous harness is designed to minimize points of failure. However, if the webbing were to get cut, this would render the entire harness completely useless.

I understand that plastic snaps and buckles could break under strain, but if I used metal buckles like on a Hogarthian harness, but on a three strap harness (one for each arm and one around the waist) wouldnt this eliminate total harness failure if one part of the harness were to be cut?

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

 

[bpevans]

I was a long time Zeagle Ranger fan who switched to a hog harness & wing and would have to say the lack of buckles and assorted schwag is what makes it so perfect. If you start adding a buckle here, one there you'll endup close to where you started.

I'm now a huge fan of the hog simplicity.

Fin-wise, consider full length tubular webbing. It's dirt cheap from outdoor shops like REI & you could cover the entire spring. A major point to spring straps is minimizing entanglement hazards. Consider monofiliment line catching the front edge of your plastic fin-strap buckle.

-bp

 

[FFMDiver]

I saw a flat bed trailer towing a 10 ton tractor being held down by two-inch nylon strapping on the highway yesterday. I had warm fuzzy feelings all over about my BP....

 

[rjchandler]

I The other question I have is about the harness system. From what I understand, the continuous harness is designed to minimize points of failure. However, if the webbing were to get cut, this would render the entire harness completely useless.

IAny comments would be greatly appreciated.

Nope - two loops would still be intact.

 

[Kevin R]

You may want to look at your buddy's technique in the water before condemming the straps. Was he finning or frog kicking? Why did he need to be right in the sea grass, could he have acomplished the same dive by being above it? Often times the equipment is blamed when better skill would overcome a problem. Remember that in DIR, equipment is only a small part of the system.

 

[MechDiver]

However, if the webbing were to get cut, this would render the entire harness completely useless.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Not if you had a ziptie.

Using your own analogy, if your plastic/metal buckle broke, you'd have the same problem. Don't "fix" things that aren't broken.

MD

 

[bcsean]

Spring straps just won't break like traditional straps. Rubber degrades, buckles break, and donning and doffing is a breeze.

Harness, unless you slipped into some emt shears and squeezed them or slipped into a really sharp knife, you won't be cutting your webbing under water. Even if one strap did cut, it would be the same as a traditional bc. There are tri-glides behind the plate at the bottom, so that part won't come out, and there is a burnt hole at the top where the STA or bolt from bands goes through, so that won't go anywhere either.

The more I researched this system, the more I realized how well it works.

 

[Scubaroo]

Try your "trusty entanglement free straps" around kelp or monofilament one day. You'll switch to spring straps in an instant. Try putting a pair of spring strap fins on while standing at the back of a boat - you'll also want to switch.

Webbing harness does not get "cut" - if something's cut your webbing underwater, you've got more pressing issues, like whether the tiger shark is coming back for a second pass, and if he's going to give your arm back.

 

[RichLockyer]

I was a long time Zeagle Ranger fan who switched to a hog harness & wing and would have to say the lack of buckles and assorted schwag is what makes it so perfect. If you start adding a buckle here, one there you'll endup close to where you started.

Agreed.
The properly adjusted harness is NOT a big deal getting in and out of, and in a rescue situation, you are likely to be cut out of whatever you are wearing... the rescuer is not going to take the extra seconds needed to figure out exactly where and how your releases are.

I experimented with a QR on one shoulder, but never dove it.
Doing it the OMS way with the QR on top, it was extremely uncomfortable. Moving it down pushed the D-ring down too low and I could not cross my arms without pinching and bruising.
Also, putting it on the left shoulder puts it under the inflator... not very convenient.
Putting it under the D-rings is an option, however, that is where the backup lights go, and putting it under the backup lights renders it more difficult to connect than simply leaving it out. I suppose you could put the QR on the lower left and only carry one backup light on the right.

There IS a way to rig a plastic QR so that you still have a continuous length of webbing. Run the strap about a foot longer than normal. Thread the two halves of the QR onto the webbing, spaced apart. What this does is puts about an 8-10" loop of webbing against the suit when the QR is connected. This does not work with stiff webbing.