Intova Sport Pro

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Hi guys,

Great thread! Awesome to see unbiased reviews and Intova personnel helping with issues.
I reckon it's won Intova a few new customers too.

I have just updated the firmware on my SP1 and all went smoothly as far as I can tell (as I had the spinning circles, then the camera turned off).
I removed my SD card afterwards and tried to turn the camera back on, but no luck. The SP1 won't turn back on at all.

Anyone else had this problem?

Put an empty SD card back in the camera and try to turn it on. If that doesn't work you'll need to contact Joe (joe@intova.net) or Kevin (kevin@intova.net) They are in HI so it's easier to do things via email than telephone.
 
Put an empty SD card back in the camera and try to turn it on. If that doesn't work you'll need to contact Joe (joe@intova.net) or Kevin (kevin@intova.net) They are in HI so it's easier to do things via email than telephone.

Cheers Gary.

Tried that.
No luck.

It's like the camera's on button has been disconnected.
I can get the red light going while the USB cord is plugged in, but that's all.
 
Edit: Additional Info.

Ok I've discovered, verified, what hyc was talking about. The new camera will stay on for as long as I want it to. However, in 1080 resolution it will record about 50 minutes of video, then begin a new video. Using the date/time stamp I could see that it didn't turn off or miss anything. It simply began a new video file, but continued recording. In 720 is recorded for 1 hour 3 minutes before starting a new video file. IMO, not a deal breaker.

Also, in 1080 the image was jerky, even though the camera was sitting on a table. In 720 it was much smoother. I think my SD cards are class 6, 16GB. Perhaps a 8GB, class 10 would perform better.

Hey Gary,

Great to read that Intova stood by you, finally delivered a replacement AND all is shipshape now.

I am also pleased to read that you picked up on my rather lengthy explanation and boring experimentation concerning the fragmented recording. It is comforting to learn that you had similar findings and I can equally confirm that indeed no information was lost – Simply lengthy recordings seem to get spilt over several files. I agree that this is not a showstopper and there is surly a way of stitching things back together again in something like windows movie maker – if at all necessary.

Otherwise, for what it is worth (as I have no real experience in the matter), I am not sure that any jerkiness would be down to the size of the card, but maybe the class could have something to do with it. Nevertheless, Intova had recommended to me either a class 6 or 10 for high res stuff. On the other hand, it could be simply down to the fact that the camera is more sensitive at higher res. I will leave it for other more knowledgeable folks to comment of this one.:wink:
 
Cheers Gary.

Tried that.
No luck.

It's like the camera's on button has been disconnected.
I can get the red light going while the USB cord is plugged in, but that's all.

Try plugging in the data cable (usb cable ) if it will come on it may be what mine did It was a faulty battery. I spoke with Kevin and he had me send it back and replaced it works great know. They really stand behind there products. the even through in a light for my inconvenience.
 
Just an FYI. I received a call from William at Intova today. They were unaware of the auto-new file after about an hour. We discussed several things about the SP1 and they are going to look onto our issues as they very much want them resolved. A big thumbs up to Intova.

It's auto-correct via Tapatalk 2, figure it out. :D
 
Now that I have the camera working nicely and I have satisfactorily tested it in a number of scenarios, I decided to turn my attention to the stiffness of the buttons!

Upon inspection, with the camera casing fully closed, it was apparent that there is a moderate gap between the inside “metal” ends of the casing buttons and the corresponding tops of the plastic buttons or nodules that run along the bottom of the camera itself.

Hence given the springs of the casing buttons are extremely resistance (and in accordance with the principles of Hooke’s laws
eyebrow.gif
), the deeper the depression - the greater the force required.

My quick and dirty solution was to cut a strip of cardboard and just position it over the 5 plastic nodules (i.e. running along the inner, bottom edge of the camera, below the LCD screen). Having checked that it was the right shape and thickness, such that I could fully close the door of the casing, I then taped it into place using that part of the top edge of the cardboard strip that was aligned with the available plastic surface below the LCD housing.

In this way, when the casing is closed, the amount of depression required on the buttons is less (hence less force needed) to operate - And, when the casing door is open, I can simply flip-up the cardboard strip to access the nodules and operate the inner button mechanism, as normal.

That’s it :coffee:
 
Have you tested at depth yet? Could the gap between the button and nodule be reduced due to compression and thus inadvertently activate button(s)?
 
Have you tested at depth yet? Could the gap between the button and nodule be reduced due to compression and thus inadvertently activate button(s)?

Excellent point Insta-Gator

Yes, I have been down as deep as 35 meters on two separate occasions and all was fine - Switching between video and photo mode several times.

In fact the cardboard is just short of completely filling the gap and soft enough to absorb a slight pressure/force.

But your point is very valid and to be taken into consideration by anyone attempting to do this.

Nice one :thumb:
 
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Just got mine. Excited to try it out, but unsure about mounting options. I have a camera tray, but I think I would like the option of mounting someplace out of the way like my shoulder (ala Aliens 2).
 
Shoulder is tough. We have a new facemask mount that might beinteresting for you though. Also a strap head mount.

Regards,
Joe

 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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