Intova 3W LED Dive Light?

[D_B]

Light is 3 piece machining, tail cap, body, and head (head starts just above switch) ... those slots in the body are to align/hold the switch assembly .. if you unscrew the head, the LED star is right there and could easily be replaced ... after removing the screws from the LED mount, I carefully pulled it out a bit and to one side (Wires) then you can see the switch/circuit board assembly, it looks to be slid in from the tail cap in those slots mentioned earlier I pushed a bit on the switch/circuit assembly and it did not move .. I do not want to risk it and besides, you can do a significant upgrade to the LED while still remaining at 700Ma

I put some thermal compound from my computer cpu/heatsink on the edge of the LED before reinstalling it to better conduct the heat to the body of the light .. cooler = brighter

 

[HenrikBP]

Thanks D_B. That's great information.

I did try to twist the head, but it didn't budge. Of course I didn't really push it either. I'll get the strap wrenches out and get it apart.

I seem to remember that some of the newer LED lend themselves better to LumiLED replacements as they are closer in shape and therefore would work similarly with the existing reflector. I, of course, can't remember which is which

I wonder how the Lumileds you mentioned earlier compare to the older one.

Henrik

 

[D_B]

This is the one it has now ...

60Lum at 700ma ... Luxeon LEDs - LXHL-LW3C Luxeon III Star - White Lambertian

And these will fit right in ...

75Lum at 700ma ... Luxeon LEDs - 5027-PW14 Luxeon K2 Star - White, 130 Lumens @ 1500mA

135Lum at 700ma ... Luxeon LEDs - LXK2-PWC4-0160 Luxeon K2-TFFC - White, 160 Lumens @ 1000mA

170Lum at 700ma ... Luxeon LEDs - LXK2-PWC4-0200 Luxeon K2-TFFC - White, 200 Lumens @ 1000mA

... these last two are just the LED (LXK2 xxxx) not a star LED (L2K2 xxxx) You might, with a little soldering, drop it in on the star, in place the original)

Again, the above options are depending on burn time ... and if you wanted to directly replace the LED without messing with the driver circuit
... all these have Lambertian lenses like the original

 

[HenrikBP]

Ah, yes. It was the lens issues I was hinting at. I saw your listing of the LEDs earlier in the thread. Thanks.

Of course a "drop-in" replacement would be the easiest, but I'd love to have a Hi-Med-Low current control driver circuit in there. Preferably not pulse width modulation.

But then my electronics skills are quite limited (don't let out the magic smoke), so unless someone comes up with a step-by-step instruction sheet (hint - hint ), it'll probably be drop-in.

Henrik

 

[D_B]

Heh, I don't think I'm your man ....... Smoke-Out is my middle name

 

[northcoastdiver]

So DB, the 75 lumen star led in your post #43 is a relatively simple replacement?

 

[D_B]

Yes, unsolder two wires, remove 60Lum star and put in 75Lum star .. although, you could just unsolder the feet on the LED it's self and use one of the others .. you could even get the 75Lum star along with a 135 or 170 LED and change the 60Lum one to the 135 or 170 LED and you would still have the 70Lum star to drop in if you ruined the original while soldering

 

[Cleavitt]

How do you get the head off of this thing? Mine seems to be glued in place or something. I can't get it to budge. I have a Luxeon K2 waiting if I can ever get into the body.

 

[D_B]

Plastic jawed vice?
I did/do mine by hand, although last time I had to use a rubber mouse pad to get traction .. and a tip ... the seal is 2 rubber O rings and a rubber gasket, so you have to apply constant twisting force for a long time ... it will at first turn imperceptibly, and you will think you are doing nothing .. don't give up

 

[northcoastdiver]

Did you use any type of sealant when you reassembled it, or is it tight enough to just push it back together and leave it?