Instructions for Repacking Filter?

[JamesBon92007]

Hi. I recently acquired a Cornelius 130R1500. It came with a filter containing Activated Charcoal and 13X (silica?) and several pads etc, enough to change the filter media many times. The filter itself is a steel tube about 1 7/8" x 6". The top and bottom caps are bronze and the bottom cap contains a thumbscrew/drain screw. Am I supposed to remove the top cap? I can see pipe wrench marks on the sides of the filter. Is there a standard ratio of filter materials? Anyone know of a manual I could download for a similar filter? I found the manual for the compressor on VDH but the filter is aftermarket.

Also, after doing some research, I settled on Chemlube 201 as probably being the best oil to use with Mobil Jet II being a possible second choice. Is there some place other than eBay where I can buy some? Paintball store perhaps? Or do I really have to pay $20/quart plus shipping? Who/what else uses this particular oil?

Thanks.

James

 

[detsgtdavis]

Any pictures?

 

[CraigAClark]

"13x" is a molecular sieve commonly used as the dryer in filter cartridges. Personally, if it has not been stored in a vaccum, I wouldn't trust it 6 months past the suppliers packaging date. Have you asked the compressor supplier about repacking proceedures? Sorry, I can't help with repacking info, but I never give recommendations as I don't want to assume liability.

Craig

 

[JamesBon92007]

No pictures yet, but I'll see if I can get my digital camera to work. The compressor was likely made in the 50's and it's an aftermarket filter (that's my understanding, anyway). Originally the "filter" that came with it was simply a separator that removed moisture from the air. According to what I've read the Navy UDT filled their tanks with only that kind of filter and this silica/charcoal filter was added on to the compressor. Seems like a real good idea to me

Basically what I'm hoping to find is generic instructions for a reusable scuba filter. I can't find any markings at all on my filter, so no clues as to the manufacturer.

I'd heard that the 13X needed to be tightly closed, but didn't know about the need for vacuum. Thanks.

 

[frogman62]

Sorry,
But your information on the Navy UDT "filter"is not correct.
I was a Navy EOD Diver from 1962 to 1967 and all compressors had not only the moisture trap but a good filter.
I have been building compressors for over 40 years (first one in 1957). I sell a modified Sprague Hydraulic Accumulator with fitting that include a moisture trap in the lower 25% with a drain valve and a repackable cartridge in the upper 75%. This unit is more than sufficient to provide grade E air from the small compressor. Working pressure is 3000PSI . Pictures can be seen on my web site @ <sheldensportinggoods.com>. Price is $147 plus shipping.
Jim Shelden
316-992-0505

 

[frogman62]

Repack is a matter of getting the air dry before it goes through the hopcalite and activated carbon.
The second issue is , packing it so the chemicals don't move around/vibrate inside the container.
I use a very dense foam compressed to hold everything tight and then filter felts 3/16 inch thick to stop any chemical dust from leaving the filter and to separate each of the chemicals. IF you have a chamber/cartridge that is 6-8 inches long and and 2 inches in diameter AND a compressor that delivers less than 2 CFM, you can just get by with a moisture trap and a single filter chamber. You will need to change the chemicals every 10 hours or so and tested to confirm the breathing quality of the air .
Rough rule for chemical quantity ( which I have used and had air meeting specification by TRI air testing service to NFPA1500 2002 edition) is 60% 13X --10% hopcalite -- 20% activated carbon and the rest of the chamber packed with felt and foam.
I prefer to have a moisture trap; 2nd chamber with 13X. 3rd chamber with 13x, Hopcalite and Activated Carbon. This provides a margin of safety because you can change the 13X in the second chamber more often and use commercial filter cartridge in the final chamber(it lasts longer when the air coming into it is already dry).
All the above is contingent on determining the needed capacity required for your compressor output. While I have had air tested for many years to determine filter sizes -- I use a moisture trap and a 1# chamber on all my compressors that are 6 CFM or smaller. For up to 12 CFM -- I use a moisture trap , a 1# chamber with 13X only , and a 1# chamber with 13X, hopcalite, and activated carbon (LF X65240).
Like Craig, I provide this as information only and have had air samples tested for my units after 30 hours of compressor operation to confirm the quality of air.
IF you pack your own filter chambers, YOU MUST HAVE THE AIR TESTED TO DETERMINE ITS QUALITY
Jim Shelden

 

[JamesBon92007]

Thanks Jim. I am very pleased to know the Navy used good filters after all. I was a bit skeptical when I read that they only used the moisture trap. but everyone knows the UDT guys were indestructable

Thanks for the information. I have seen diagrams of filters with various layers but have not even heard of hopcalite before. I have a long ways to go it seems. What kinds of problems/contamination are common or likely when folks repack their own filters? And where would I get my air tested? I realize that overheating crankcase oil can result in the formation of CO which could be drawn in, compressed, and end up in the tank, and avoiding filling tanks where another souce of CO is possible needs to be avoided. I would consider that common sense.

My compressor supposedly will deliver up to 2 cfm and the filter is about 6" long and slightly less than 2" in diameter so I think it fits into your "single filter chamber" category.

 

[frogman62]

Hopcalite is a CO to CO2 catalyst. Gas engine compressors need hopcalite to remove potential CO from exhaust gas that might be sucked into the compressor. The activated carbon then removes excess CO2
Air testing is offered by Lawrence Factor. I use TRI Air Testing in Austin TX (512-263-2101)
Jim

 

[Zodiacdiverdave]

I don't know about using Chemlube 201 in a piston compressor. This is what I use in a screw compressor and it may not meet the demands of a piston unit. Screw compressors don't have near the friction as piston compressors do. I don't have any experience with the Cornelius units so maybe some one else can provide some advise on this oil.

ZDD

 

[frogman62]

The cornelius should have Mobile Jet II oil.
Jim Shelden