Installing Power Inflator on my Halcyon BP/W

[mweitz]

My old style one like yours had a white glue in there and a zip tie both above and below the flange. The new one should have a little black plastic clamp with a screw and nut. You are supposed to use:

Loctite 598 Black - High Performance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

as the "glue" to hold it on. It should cure for 24 hours

Mark

 

[Dan Gibson]

I knew I had heard it was locktite. Thanks for the number.

My old style one like yours had a white glue in there and a zip tie both above and below the flange. The new one should have a little black plastic clamp with a screw and nut. You are supposed to use:

Loctite 598 Black - High Performance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

as the "glue" to hold it on. It should cure for 24 hours

Mark

 

[mweitz]

No problem.

It is also EXCELLENT for ruining cloth placemats, jeans, and most anything else it touches. . Wonder if my wife will ever find that placemat

Mark

 

[Uncle Pug]

SSIoD ...and on top of that you have to glue the thing in place!

 

[cool_hardware52]

"It looks like an injection input thingie."

. . . sprue.

Actually if you wish to be technically correct the "Sprue" feeds from the nozzel to the "Runner", the runner then feeds the "gate" Gates and their resulting imperfections are what is sometimes visible on molded parts. In some cases the Sprue is the Gate, i.e. direct sprue-gate, but this very uncommon.

It is unlikely, although possible, that the depression Ken identified is the gate. This part is far more likely to be "edge" gated, i.e. at the parting line.

My guess is that the depression seen in the "barb" section of the inflator is a "left over" from a design that infact had a pin for a pull dump cable, or it is intentionally there to act a "drill guide" should the manufacturer (part molder) see the need for a pin in the future. A simple post molding "second operation" or drilling would produce the necessary hole.


Regards,


Tobin

 

[The Kraken]

I'd opt for paragraph #3.

 

[Mo2vation]

"It looks like an injection input thingie."

. . . sprue.

OK. Gate, Sprue, thingie. Works for me.

It did come with a clamp flambus - complete wif stainless screw and nut. But it doesn't clamp tight enought to make an airtight seal... just enought to keep it from falling out.

I'll try to find some locktite LMNO. Thanks for the tips, all.

---
Ken

 

[doole]

It did come with a clamp flambus - complete wif stainless screw and nut. But it doesn't clamp tight enought to make an airtight seal... just enought to keep it from falling out.

That strikes me as odd. Mine clamps tightly around the plastic gubbitz.

I think it's time for some of you guys to call Halcyon - in my experience they have an extremely helpful tech services department.

Wonder if they changed the gubbitz diameter? Or the size of the clamp?

 

[Dan Gibson]

My old old corrugated hose seems to be a little too big for the new inflators. That's why I needed the glue. Two zip ties won't even do the trick and those typically work better than the new clamps. I think the inflator diameter is slightly smaller. Someone have a set of calipers handy to measure the old versus the new?

That strikes me as odd. Mine clamps tightly around the plastic gubbitz.

I think it's time for some of you guys to call Halcyon - in my experience they have an extremely helpful tech services department.

Wonder if they changed the gubbitz diameter? Or the size of the clamp?

 

[doole]

My old old corrugated hose seems to be a little too big for the new inflators. That's why I needed the glue. Two zip ties won't even do the trick and those typically work better than the new clamps. I think the inflator diameter is slightly smaller. Someone have a set of calipers handy to measure the old versus the new?

I only have the new ones since I got mine exchanged but using electronic calipers on one of them, I get .990" / 25.15mm. (Above the retaining flange, of course.)