INON Not Shipping to US Dealers ?????

[John_B]

As a fellow Canon user (A720) who is planning on upgrading her Canon housing to an Ikelite and adding a strobe, I hope you don't mind me jumping in here while we both wait for Nemrod.

Why is it you're considering the Canon housing with a converter rather than an Ikelite housing, for example? Are Ikelite housings only compatible with Ikelite WA lenses? And any other lens only compatible with a housing of the same manufacturer for that matter? (I'm not planning on an WA lens at this time, but this is good information and maybe one day I can afford to change my mind.)

Well I just got an email that pointed out that camera doesn't work with that housing. (Edit: And Nem confirmed it.)

Near as I've been able to figure out, the Ikelite housing with adapter for the INON bayonet system with the INON "fisheye" wide angle lens is going to vignette (dark corners) unless you zoom out which defeats the whole point of having a wide angle lens. And as Nem has previously pointed out, the Ikelite W-20 isn't actually wide angle at all.

As expensive as it may get, I'm not convinced that the dSLR route isn't a better approach in the long run for WA. I wonder what sort of FOV I'd get with an XSi and the EF-S 10-22mm (16-35mm effective) and the Ikelite with the 8" dome? Or the EF 15mm Fisheye (24mm effective)?

Edit: I'll have to check out the Tokina lenses...

 

[Nemrod]

Well I just got an email that pointed out that camera doesn't work with that housing. (Edit: And Nem confirmed it.)

Near as I've been able to figure out, the Ikelite housing with adapter for the INON bayonet system with the INON "fisheye" wide angle lens is going to vignette (dark corners) unless you zoom out which defeats the whole point of having a wide angle lens. And as Nem has previously pointed out, the Ikelite W-20 isn't actually wide angle at all.

As expensive as it may get, I'm not convinced that the dSLR route isn't a better approach in the long run for WA. I wonder what sort of FOV I'd get with an XSi and the EF-S 10-22mm (16-35mm effective) and the Ikelite with the 8" dome? Or the EF 15mm Fisheye (24mm effective)?

Edit: I'll have to check out the Tokina lenses...

You better go back and read my last post before this one. I was not trying to convince you NOT to get a dSLR. Thats is up to you. I only deal with facts.

There is no AD adapter for the 67mm port Ikelite in existence other than the one I made. It works--period! I have shown pics of it and made a thread on it. Sorry nay sayers, it works.

The two adapters that Ikelite makes, one adapts their 47mm port to AD lenses, the other adapts their 47mm port to 67mm threaded lenses. There is no--repeat--no 67mm Ikelite AD port adapter. I made mine, myself--it works. Ikelite is wrong, I do have to zoom out slightly, the FOV is huge compared to other solutions.

What also works with no vignetting for certainty is the Ikelite housing with Canon 590IS I linked to previously when used with any of the 100 series Inon/Epoque/Ikelite 67mm threaded lenses. With the dome port on the Inon the wide angle view is absolutely stunning.

Now, please, go get that dSLR, be happy, forget about ol'Nemrod out on the edge, hot rodding 100 dollars cameras, putting 700 dollars lenses on used 12 dollars Canons and doing what cannot be done. Vingetting my a-----.

Good luck. So far astray, I am finished, done, adios.

N

 

[John_B]

What also works with no vignetting for certainty is the Ikelite housing with Canon 590IS I linked to previously when used with any of the 100 series Inon/Epoque/Ikelite 67mm threaded lenses. With the dome port on the Inon the wide angle view is absolutely stunning.

Now, please, go get that dSLR, be happy, forget about ol'Nemrod out on the edge, hot rodding 100 dollars cameras, putting 700 dollars lenses on used 12 dollars Canons and doing what cannot be done. Vingetting my a-----.

Good luck. So far astray, I am finished, done, adios.

Nem, please don't misunderstand. I absolutely appreciate the fact that you are willing to educate where so many so-called experts don't have a clue. There is sooooo much misinformation when it comes to WA and I'm glad you go to the trouble (and frustration, I'm sure) to clarify all of the misunderstandings.

Going dSLR in an underwater housing is still a last resort. Stuffing a minimum of a $1500 camera and glass into an equally expensive plastic underwater housing and then dragging the whole thing down to 100', well, it just gives me a sick feeling in the pit of my stomach to think of how easily it could all go wrong.

Now, I'm going to go back and re-research that A590IS and the Ikelite housing and the INON lenses (which I think I can still get from ReefPhoto or DiverVision). At least if the worst were to happen, the 590IS is only about a benjamin to replace. You just can't say that about a dSLR...

 

[RonFrank]

If it makes you feel any better, I have never flooded a housing. My diving experience does not compare to some, but I have over 100 dives with my equipment UW. What I have found happens more often is things stop working, and not due to flooding.

I like Ike, but their strobes (I purchased used, maybe a mistake) have been into service more than once, and more than one strobe. Honestly, I think if I used them more, I'd have less problems. Howard has good luck with Ike strobes, but he dives a lot more than I.

Inspect all your seals, keep an eye out for foreign matter, be methodical, and insure your equipment!

 

[Gilligan]

If you guys are going to go Japan-O-phobic better dump those Canons, Nikons, Sonys and just about everything else because we in the USA decided years ago we did not want to produce durable goods and prefer to flip houses and burgers and just whine.

Sometimes the truth hurts but nevertheless it's the truth.

While still on Inon Nemrod I have a question for you since you have the D-2000.

The "Achilles Heel" of my D-180 was the control dial for the focus light. It had a tiny set screw and was a spring loaded dial for push in, turn and lock capability. That control worked its way loose and fell off several times in the five or so years I owned it. Luckily I never lost the parts and re-attached them.

I'm wondering if Inon has improved or changed that design?

That problem is enough to convince me to buy a Sea & Sea 110Alpha over the Inon D-2000.

 

[Nemrod]

Sometimes the truth hurts but nevertheless it's the truth.

While still on Inon Nemrod I have a question for you since you have the D-2000.

The "Achilles Heel" of my D-180 was the control dial for the focus light. It had a tiny set screw and was a spring loaded dial for push in, turn and lock capability. That control worked its way loose and fell off several times in the five or so years I owned it. Luckily I never lost the parts and re-attached them.

I'm wondering if Inon has improved or changed that design?

That problem is enough to convince me to buy a Sea & Sea 110Alpha over the Inon D-2000.

Ladies, gentlemen, all of these companies are little bitty companies. They all sell to a very limited market.

The Sea Sea for all I would know is an excellent strobe, the specs look good, people talk highly of them, beats me. Next week Sea and Sea could preempt North America sales. The world economy is imploding, there are no guarantees.

The control knob you speak of seems similar, mine has not fallen off, who knows, maybe it will explode next time I use it just because the middleman Inon America got cut out, lol.

N