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There are also some wrist computers that use an optional transmitter so you pay less for the computer now - on your wrist where you can see it during your ascent and while holding your safety stop then add the transmitter later when you buy your regs. I doubt many shops will be willing to add your transmitter to their rental regs without some advance notice - more importantly they don't want you doing it since if you strip the port - they can throw away the reg.
I dive a Gekko (predecessor to the Zoop) for the last decade. It's not air-integrated so I also have a mini-console - a smaller pressure and depth gauge. I use the computer for depth so the other is redundant unless the computer fails.
When you buy a computer - be sure you can operate it. My Gekko came with a quick-use card - I lost it a few years ago. I pick it up after not using it for months, run through the menus and am good to go. I had a Uwatec before that - it required a series of presses on 4 different buttons to change functions - I carried the manual everywhere I went.
Get one with a user replaceable battery. Not that you even have to do it but you might. Not a bad idea to keep a service kit in your save-a-dive kit either - most run around $25 online - it's a $2 battery and the right o-ring.Sometimes a plastic tool to remove the old one.
Shearwater is the current computer darling on SB so I'm sure someone will recommend one soon. I personally would not wear that on my wrist. I am interested in their new Teric though. They use OLED displays which shorten the battery life but will be highly visible where you're going to be diving. Shearwater's are also most of $1K although there seems to be some good deals on used Perdix's since the Teric started shipping...lol
Good advice about buying regs - buy what you can get serviced locally. All well turned regs breathe about the same. Better models are sealed which is a consideration for the temperatures you'll dive in. Sealed also helps keep the gunk out on Piston-based regs - less important on Diaphragm models since the mechanicals are behind the diaphragm.
Buy something with 2 HP ports - one for the future computer transmitter - the other for an spg. Most models above entry level will have 2 plus 3-4 LP ports for better hose routing.. Some like Atomic Aquatics also have turret swivels for this. It's what I dive.
Since you indicated you're not petite - look at back-inflate bcd's as they won't squeeze your front during use..Either a conventional bcd, the suggested bp/w or there's also hybrids like the Zeagle Express Tech or some of the Transpack/Transplate line - they're soft back plates that are modular - you buy/add pockets, weight systems etc as needed.
As mentioned if you go the hard backplate/wing route - have someone help you set it up, size the wing for the conditions. cut/seal the straps and most likely buy a steel plate due to all the neoprene. Nice thing is the weight counts as some of your needed dive weight so you carry less free weight. You do want some that's ditchable until you have a lot more experience. It can go on a belt, in pockets or from companies like DSS - some bolts on permanently. That of course is not ditch-able unless you drop your whole rig in an emergency.
my .02
I dive a Gekko (predecessor to the Zoop) for the last decade. It's not air-integrated so I also have a mini-console - a smaller pressure and depth gauge. I use the computer for depth so the other is redundant unless the computer fails.
When you buy a computer - be sure you can operate it. My Gekko came with a quick-use card - I lost it a few years ago. I pick it up after not using it for months, run through the menus and am good to go. I had a Uwatec before that - it required a series of presses on 4 different buttons to change functions - I carried the manual everywhere I went.
Get one with a user replaceable battery. Not that you even have to do it but you might. Not a bad idea to keep a service kit in your save-a-dive kit either - most run around $25 online - it's a $2 battery and the right o-ring.Sometimes a plastic tool to remove the old one.
Shearwater is the current computer darling on SB so I'm sure someone will recommend one soon. I personally would not wear that on my wrist. I am interested in their new Teric though. They use OLED displays which shorten the battery life but will be highly visible where you're going to be diving. Shearwater's are also most of $1K although there seems to be some good deals on used Perdix's since the Teric started shipping...lol
Good advice about buying regs - buy what you can get serviced locally. All well turned regs breathe about the same. Better models are sealed which is a consideration for the temperatures you'll dive in. Sealed also helps keep the gunk out on Piston-based regs - less important on Diaphragm models since the mechanicals are behind the diaphragm.
Buy something with 2 HP ports - one for the future computer transmitter - the other for an spg. Most models above entry level will have 2 plus 3-4 LP ports for better hose routing.. Some like Atomic Aquatics also have turret swivels for this. It's what I dive.
Since you indicated you're not petite - look at back-inflate bcd's as they won't squeeze your front during use..Either a conventional bcd, the suggested bp/w or there's also hybrids like the Zeagle Express Tech or some of the Transpack/Transplate line - they're soft back plates that are modular - you buy/add pockets, weight systems etc as needed.
As mentioned if you go the hard backplate/wing route - have someone help you set it up, size the wing for the conditions. cut/seal the straps and most likely buy a steel plate due to all the neoprene. Nice thing is the weight counts as some of your needed dive weight so you carry less free weight. You do want some that's ditchable until you have a lot more experience. It can go on a belt, in pockets or from companies like DSS - some bolts on permanently. That of course is not ditch-able unless you drop your whole rig in an emergency.
my .02