Identifying a Submerge Motor

[rjack321]

If the BMS overcurrent trip is reasonable for the wire size, I would just stick with that and skip the fuse.

If it takes 200 amps to trip the BMS off, then you might wanna add the 40A fuse despite the corrosion issues Jona mentions.

 

[Curious_George]

a VESC solution is truly not a good solution for a brushed motor like this. The Barracuda units have worked well and I have some in stock. The other one which Dimitri is working on is the Medusa ESC. Those have been primarily setup for DiverTugs

Hey Jona, would you please elaborate on this? Is it because they are using PWM to vary motor RPM, or something else? The Arduino based ESC I built for a divertug has been running well for about 6 months without adverse effects as far as I can tell. I’m building another now for a Mako.

 

[Whitrzac]

Hey Jona, would you please elaborate on this? Is it because they are using PWM to vary motor RPM, or something else? The Arduino based ESC I built for a divertug has been running well for about 6 months without adverse effects as far as I can tell. I’m building another now for a Mako.

The vesc solution for a brushed dpv is paying for a lot of extra features that aren't needed.

 

[tbone1004]

@suricatasuricata fuses protect wires, so they go closest to the point of power origination, i.e. as close to the battery as possible/practical. It should be between the battery and the first "plug". The mentions of the BMS overcurrent protection instead of a fuse are valid if and only if the BMS current protection is equal to or lower than the ampacity rating of the wire. This is highly unlikely so you will still need a fuse of some variety unless you can program the BMS, which is also highly unlikely.

The T-Handle you linked to functions the same as your current trigger. It pulls a wire with a magnet that opens and closes a reed switch, it is not a variable speed trigger.

 

[suricatasuricata]

@suricatasuricata fuses protect wires, so they go closest to the point of power origination, i.e. as close to the battery as possible/practical. It should be between the battery and the first "plug". The mentions of the BMS overcurrent protection instead of a fuse are valid if and only if the BMS current protection is equal to or lower than the ampacity rating of the wire. This is highly unlikely so you will still need a fuse of some variety unless you can program the BMS, which is also highly unlikely.

Alright thanks. I will need to peek through the battery and BMS setup to figure that out. But absolutely makes sense to install it there.

The T-Handle you linked to functions the same as your current trigger. It pulls a wire with a magnet that opens and closes a reed switch, it is not a variable speed trigger.

Yeah, this was more me just coming to terms with how "odd" the user experience of joystick mechanism of control seemed compared to more modern setups that are more like a T handle.

I don't really need variable speed per se. It might be cool to have. But I figure my buddies with their fancy Genesises, Suexes and Seacrafts should be able to match my speed .

 

[suricatasuricata]

Also, out of curiosity: If I don't need variable speed, would an ESC still be recommended?

 

[tbone1004]

Also, out of curiosity: If I don't need variable speed, would an ESC still be recommended?

It's more reliable than the relay that is in there and much more efficient than using the variable pitch prop with a single speed output. The ESC will have current protection so that can also function to protect the wire like a fuse but if you are using the relay then you 100% need it fused.

The more modern handles like those found on the Submerge units trigger the motor exactly the same way as yours does, they are just much more comfortable to use for long periods of time and are much more maneuverable, but they are just a reconfigured version of what you have. SS uses a rotating piece, DiveX uses a trigger, but both of them are just moving a magnet to open or close a reed switch in the exact same fashion that yours is, it's just how the magnet is moved that is different

 

[rjack321]

The really high current BMSes are expensive! I would be shocked if this one is >60amps (which would be pointlessly expensive) and is more likely a 40 or a 50amp BMS. See if you can confirm somehow

 

[suricatasuricata]

@rjack321 Good tip. I was hoping the BMS would have a serial number or a part number that I could see from the outside, but nope. It looks like a circuit board, with a black plastic enclosure, all shrink wrapped. Gonna have to open the enclosure to see.

 

[rjack321]

@rjack321 Good tip. I was hoping the BMS would have a serial number or a part number that I could see from the outside, but nope. It looks like a circuit board, with a black plastic enclosure, all shrink wrapped. Gonna have to open the enclosure to see.

View attachment 856514

The seller doesnt know who built the battery?