I want to buy a used Steel 72

[Empty V]

Any advice on refurbishing a steel tank(obviously I'd send it out.) And does anyone have one for sale in southern Cali? I'm looking for a high pressure 72/80. I think I know what I'm talking about. Thanks for the help!

 

[Creed]

Any advice on refurbishing a steel tank(obviously I'd send it out.) And does anyone have one for sale in southern Cali? I'm looking for a high pressure 72/80. I think I know what I'm talking about. Thanks for the help!

A steel 72 usually refers to a low pressure tank(2250 psi). I buy mine from ebay. They usually sell for less than $30 + shipping. Shipping in the US should only be around $25-30. I've gotten them for as little as $15(for the whole thing, but I picked it up, too). You should expect to tumble the tank when you get it. I've had to tumble both of the tanks I purchased on ebay. But they both cleaned up fine, and are in current use. Just make sure to add the cost of hydro and vip to the tank to determine whether or not it is a good deal.

 

[pescador775]

Do not buy a steel 72 without due diligence. In the 1960's these tanks sometimes featured an internal coating, usually epoxy. This stuff is death on tanks as it can not be tumbled out while pits form under obvious blisters in the coating. Purchase a tank manufactured in the 1970's. Or, buy a Scubapro tank. These never had internal coatings. Do not buy a yellow tank of any kind. Some of these were painted over steel. When you remove the boot half of the tank may fall out as well.

 

[tlessard]

Do not buy a steel 72 without due diligence. In the 1960's these tanks sometimes featured an internal coating, usually epoxy. This stuff is death on tanks as it can not be tumbled out while pits form under obvious blisters in the coating. Purchase a tank manufactured in the 1970's. Or, buy a Scubapro tank. These never had internal coatings. Do not buy a yellow tank of any kind. Some of these were painted over steel. When you remove the boot half of the tank may fall out as well.

While it is true many of the old LP steel 72 tanks did have an epoxy coating, it is not true that the pits under blisters cannot be tumbled out. The tanks can be tumbled as often as you'd like to have them tumbled. The tumbling will remove any minor and some major imperfections. And if you keep water out of the inside of your tank (ie, don't run them empty), corrosion will essentially cease. The biggest problem with these tanks is units that have an EXTERNAL coating of paint or vinyl...when water gets under there, it just continues to corrode until the tank fails (hopefully just hydro)!

Keep in mind that any tanks that contain the potentially flammable epoxy internal coating will never be O2 compatible. Best thing you can ever hope to do with them is have them filled with PRE-BLENDED 40% Nitrox (no partial pressure O2 filling with these babies). I may be mistaken, but I don't think it's true that all Scubapro tanks omitted this lining either...so find out for sure what you are buying before you buy it.

That said...they are great little tanks. I have 2 sets of doubled USD 72s with the lining fully intact...only used for air and pre-blended mixes below 40% O2.

-T

 

[Creed]

Do not buy a steel 72 without due diligence. In the 1960's these tanks sometimes featured an internal coating, usually epoxy. This stuff is death on tanks as it can not be tumbled out while pits form under obvious blisters in the coating. Purchase a tank manufactured in the 1970's. Or, buy a Scubapro tank. These never had internal coatings. Do not buy a yellow tank of any kind. Some of these were painted over steel. When you remove the boot half of the tank may fall out as well.

That's not true. 1) A good inspector can still VIP linings. 2) They most certainly can be tumbled out. If nothing else, just build your own tumbler, pick up some old brass shell casings, and tumble away. You can build a tumbler for a lot less than a new tank will cost you, and it will earn its keep over time. 3) You can strip the outside paint and paint it with ZRC for a good galvanic coating.
But, in the interest of safety, feel free to send me any 72s you run across. I'll even pay shipping and take those dangerous things off your hands.

 

[donooo]

I have two steel tanks that I am dragging around. 2250 and 2150, Hydro and Vis 10/05. I am in Tucson and will be heading off thru Yuma, Laughlin, Vegas, Boise and Yakima. Save shipping, meet me somewhere. PM me,,,,

adios don O

 

[oxyhacker]

Linings don't necessarily have to be removed. Several sources, including Global, suggest just tumbling long enough to remove any flaking and bubbling lining, and leaving the rest. The logic being that any coating that will not come off during tumbling must be still adhering pretty well.

Global also suggests a mod for the valves in lined tanks, just in case the do start flaking again, by which whe dip/snorkle tube is crushed partially shut, and several additional 1/8" holes drilled in the tube, to lessen the chance the flakes could plug the valve.

That said, if one wants a steel 72 (and they are great tanks!), I think it really pays to shop around for a cherry one, which is to say hot dipped on the outside and no coating on the inside rather than screw around tumbling and ZRCing a yellow one. OK you may have to pay $25 instead of $15, but we all know this is an expensive sport.

 

[Creed]

Linings don't necessarily have to be removed. Several sources, including Global, suggest just tumbling long enough to remove any flaking and bubbling lining, and leaving the rest. The logic being that any coating that will not come off during tumbling must be still adhering pretty well.

Would it be prudent then to make an annual event out of tumbling these tanks, and gradually chew off the lining?

Global also suggests a mod for the valves in lined tanks, just in case the do start flaking again, by which whe dip/snorkle tube is crushed partially shut, and several additional 1/8" holes drilled in the tube, to lessen the chance the flakes could plug the valve.

That said, if one wants a steel 72 (and they are great tanks!), I think it really pays to shop around for a cherry one, which is to say hot dipped on the outside and no coating on the inside rather than screw around tumbling and ZRCing a yellow one. OK you may have to pay $25 instead of $15, but we all know this is an expensive sport.

Actually, I've never had to put ZRC on a 72. I just scored four old Survivair tanks in mint condition that I will be stripping eventually and painting with zrc. That's why I mentioned that. Those tanks are just about perfect for a set of small doubles to go with my DA Aquamaster.

 

[pescador775]

There were two types of internal coatings. In the early 60's, US Divers tanks had a thin white coating that could be tumbled enough to pass the tank. However, in the mid 60's, Dacor and others were using a thick dark epoxy that would hide serious corrosion and was almost impossible to tumble out. Dive shops routinely would not pass such tanks. I wouldn't touch one with a ten foot pole. I've thrown away a couple for scrap. With modern ceramic media, I guess you could tumble enough to remove obvious blisters and then put a sticker on the tank. Recognizing the problems, it was Scubapro policy to refrain from applying any kind of internal coating. They NEVER did. Good luck.

 

[Creed]

There were two types of internal coatings. In the early 60's, US Divers tanks had a thin white coating that could be tumbled enough to pass the tank. However, in the mid 60's, Dacor and others were using a thick dark epoxy that would hide serious corrosion and was almost impossible to tumble out. Dive shops routinely would not pass such tanks. I wouldn't touch one with a ten foot pole. I've thrown away a couple for scrap. With modern ceramic media, I guess you could tumble enough to remove obvious blisters and then put a sticker on the tank. Recognizing the problems, it was Scubapro policy to refrain from applying any kind of internal coating. They NEVER did. Good luck.

I can't imagine any epoxy that would stand up to brass media and gravel for very long. It might take a few days of tumbling, but I'd bet on the brass and rocks in the end.