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Firstly you rush to shoot so the camera is not focused, in your rush you create movement which may also scare off what you want to film. You do not wait for the green square or learn to lock in the focal distance on the TG6.
I've had people pull on me thinking unresponsive diver no bubble trail no movement the diver died oh my god he was only taking a photo.
That's when my arms become like a humming bird head and they stay in a fixed position while the rest of me moves with the rocking motion of the water.
If something is on a reef wall you may want to get into that vertical position. Buoyancy control, fins controlling your direction and stillness of hands you will learn with time. The water is my magic carpet ride so move and flow with the water.
Hopefully you can see this photo I took today with my TG5 with an Inon strobe. Shows what the camera is capable of. A sea dragon head:
Not quite in focus, and perhaps a bit of camera motion.Yes, this is true. Our go-to dive destination is Cozumel, and sometimes I have the luxury of no current, and sometimes I'm fighting a mild current, and sometimes it's pretty stiff. Regardless, my light will scare the critters - I've experimented with it - blennies tuck back in their holes (no always though) and seahorses turn away from it. So I rush, don't take the time to focus and hope for the best. I've never experimented with a tripod or setting down my camera.
That's pretty darned funny! I have rarely had the opportunity to take that much time to set up a shot. Usually I'm with a group and have to keep up.
I learned how to do that when diving in Kona - before then, I tried to fight the motion of the water. It really does work best when you allow the water to move just the parts of your body that don't 'need' to stay still. Not that I have this perfected, but I understand the value, and work on the skill.
(I'm hearing Steppenwolf AND seeing the scene from Aladdin here with the 'magic carpet ride'!). I spend a fair amount of time upside down when trying to get shots on a slope/wall. It's the only way to protect the reef, and get close enough to get a shot. One of the reasons I want to keep my rig smallish is to get into tight spaces. I hate having to pass up good shots because my rig is too big (but a GoPro wouldn't do what I want to do - I really like macro).
Here are a couple of my better pics - when my subject is stationary (flamingo tongue) it helps!! But not matter what I do, my painted elysia are always just a little blurry - it seems the colors bleed into one another just the tiniest amount.
View attachment 634014 .
View attachment 634009 View attachment 634010 View attachment 634011
Use the smallest focus spot your camera allows
The green box is essential. It needs lines to focus on...the camera tries to make the lines sharp. Some nudis, for example, have a mottled pattern that appears out-of-focus...and indeed it is hard to focus on. Rule of thumb: focus on the esys for a fish, the rhinophores for a nudi. For the little blennies, try and get an angle so the mouth and teeth are the same distance from the lens as the eyes...then all three will be sharp.Do you know how I can determine what that is? WAIT: HOLD THE PRESS! I typed that and then grabbed my camera, put it on 'underwater' mode and macro, then half-pressed the shutter when I had an item to actually focus on and the GREEN BOX appeared! Then I tried to focus on my mouse pad (all black) and NO BOX! Please don't give me TOO much grief about not knowing what the green box is. I saw people referring to it in this thread and thought my camera didn't have it!!!!! Doh! Now I'm 'assuming' this is the 'smallest focus spot' my camera allows? (No, I haven't taken any classes - why do you ask?! Duh!).
Final excuse ... like most people my age, I have to use readers. I did get my masked updated with my new script for near and far vision, but it's still not optimal. I wish I could take a pair of readers down there with me!
For the little blennies, try and get an angle so the mouth and teeth are the same distance from the lens as the eyes...then all three will be sharp.
Another thought, if you are not able to maintain position long, is to try the sequence (burst) shots that can be achieved through a setting and then holding down the shutter button.