HP's or LP's for Nitrox?

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OE2X

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Getting my Nitrox cert shortly and need to buy a pair of tanks. Should I go with HP's or LP's?
 
Personal preference, really.

If you're partial pressure blending, LP's tend to be easier to get an accurate mix, since there's less heating occurring as you complete the latter part of the (air) fill.

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
overexposed2X:
Getting my Nitrox cert shortly and need to buy a pair of tanks. Should I go with HP's or LP's?

I find that there are advantages to both. I went with the HP tanks because you can get the same amount of air in a smaller package. Also the DIN valves give you a captured O-ring. Now you can put a DIN valve on the LP tanks as well.

I am sure you will a lot of different opinions here. Just remember to take your time in deciding. They tend to me expensive, so make sure you know what you want first.

DSAO
 
I personally dive with HP but most cavers and tech use LP tanks. I like my din valve so use you choice wisely as they are expensive.
 
NWGratefulDiver:
Personal preference, really.

If you're partial pressure blending, LP's tend to be easier to get an accurate mix, since there's less heating occurring as you complete the latter part of the (air) fill.

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

Personal Preference??? Who are you kidding. Find a scuba shop that fills to 3500 PSI for HP fills and I will find ten that can only fill to 3000. Save your money and buy steel LP tanks. The savings on weight required, trim, and overfill capabilities give the advantage to LP. If you plan on continuing your divers education or move into more technical dives, you are halfway there.
 
I have a main regulator setup as well as backup that the first stages are both MK25's DIN rigged. I may have solved the issue though on what I need to get for tanks. My new boat has a 4 tank rack that is mounted to the back of the standing bolster. Each holder measures 7.5" ID. Looks like I'm constrained to using HP's if I want to use this rack.
 
overexposed2X:
I have a main regulator setup as well as backup that the first stages are both MK25's DIN rigged. I may have solved the issue though on what I need to get for tanks. My new boat has a 4 tank rack that is mounted to the back of the standing bolster. Each holder measures 7.5" ID. Looks like I'm constrained to using HP's if I want to use this rack.

All three of my setups are DIN. Screw that rack and strap your 8" LP tanks on with bungees. I have yet to be on a boat where this could not be done. At worst, set them on the deck and tie them to a cleat.
 
I may be able to modify the rack, by getting a longer track. Until then I agree with you. I'll go with the LP's. I know it's been covered before but dare I ask what you think of Faber's? My LDS has these in stock. PST's will take 3 weeks.

Thanks everyone for you advice.
 
jjsteffen:
Find a scuba shop that fills to 3500 PSI for HP fills and I will find ten that can only fill to 3000.

I must have that one in ten shop. They have no problem overfilling my PST HP 80's. They fill slow and in a water tank. Next year, I'll have to go with less gas, but then I don't really need it in those tanks anyway. :)
 
jjsteffen:
Personal Preference??? Who are you kidding. Find a scuba shop that fills to 3500 PSI for HP fills and I will find ten that can only fill to 3000. Save your money and buy steel LP tanks. The savings on weight required, trim, and overfill capabilities give the advantage to LP. If you plan on continuing your divers education or move into more technical dives, you are halfway there.

I find just the opposite here. Most shops fill to well over 3500 if needed. I have done a weight check (OMS 121 45lb – PS120 36lb), but when I am filling/blending tanks, the LP tanks are much heavier than the HP tanks. This is an issue when you are on land walking to an entry point or climbing the ladder of a rocking boat.

Blending really isn’t an issue on either tank, so it is a moot point.

Again, only you can decide. Good Luck
 

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