HP80 Tank, 300bar DIN valve, yoke reg: questions about options for conversion (I'm a newbie)

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Edward3c

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This is really confusing to point of not making much sense. Not sure why you are using the term "proofed" as that relates to testing not design. Further, it has little to do with finance but functionality. The issue is that a yoke connection at higher pressure is not a reliable connection because the o-ring is not fully captured and can blow out. With a DIN connection the o-ring is fully captured and will not blow out....
I was with a DIN rigged diver last month when the o-ring blow out. So not true they don’t fail.
 

Bob DBF

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The issue is that a yoke connection at higher pressure is not a reliable connection because the o-ring is not fully captured and can blow out.

The yoke is a reliable connection, if the yoke is made for the service pressure of the tank. The bad rap that yokes received was the use of old yokes for 1800# and 2250# service on 3000# and up tanks. The yoke would flex and blow the o-ring, a poor connection on a DIN can do the same, see quote below.

The actual connection of both yoke and DIN are flat metal faces with an o-ring seal. The strength of the connections depends on the material used, not the style.

I have a yoke reg made for 4000# service. It was made before the valve restriction on 3500# HP tanks, or actually before any HP tanks. They foresaw a need in the future, but it didn't work out, an interesting artifact from '81, or so.

I was with a DIN rigged diver last month when the o-ring blow out. So not true they don’t fail
 

Angelo Farina

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My suggestion is to convert your reg to DIN-300. The DIN conversion kit is around 40 USD (at least for SP regs): I converted 3 of my old SP regs with those kits during this spring, it takes only a couple of minutes to remove the yoke and to install the DIN screw...
 

happy-diver

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I was with a DIN rigged diver last month when the o-ring blow out. So not true they don’t fail.

If you screw your fitting in properly, keep an eye on the right sized orings and use 90 duro this is far less likely

and keep your yokes, valves, and orings, in good shape

Too many variables customer fiddleable exposed orings
 

kkmcwhat

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For the OP. Given what you have described (stay with yoke) your best option is to sell the cylinder because the only valve for that cylinder is not going to be usable with an insert. As said above by JD cylinders that have a 3500psi working pressure are 7/8"-14 unf thread with a 7 thread DIN valve. Where as the more common cylinder (3442 psi, 3000psi, 2400psi, etc) are 3/4" straight NPT and can use a 5 thread DIN valve with the doughnut insert (which is only 5 thread) for a yoke regulator.



This is really confusing to point of not making much sense. Not sure why you are using the term "proofed" as that relates to testing not design. Further, it has little to do with finance but functionality. The issue is that a yoke connection at higher pressure is not a reliable connection because the o-ring is not fully captured and can blow out. With a DIN connection the o-ring is fully captured and will not blow out.



Except as JD and I have noted the cylinder is a 3500 psi cylinder so the threads 7/8" so only a 7 thread 300 bar valve is going to work. Also most all modern regulators can be used with higher pressures such as 300 bar. Which the whole 200/300 bar nomenclature is a misnomer ...

Thanks so much; this is what I'm coming to learn slowly (on this thread and other places). Feel kinda like an idiot, but I figure it won't be too hard to sell, and I learned something? Anyway. Thanks so much for all this.
 

Bob DBF

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Feel kinda like an idiot..

Don't worry, we all get our turn.

It doesn't help that "HP tanks" include a small number of no longer made tanks that are different than the rest, and an awful lot of sellers have no knowledge of what they are selling.

Below is a link to an XS scuba page that shows how to read the cylinder markings of various tanks they sell. Although some of the markings you will only find on new tanks most have been used since they were stamped ICC before it became DOT. Make sure the service pressure is below 3500# and you avoid repeating this issue. Know, or have a cheat sheet handy might avoid others.

Cylinder Markings — XS Scuba - Everything For The Perfect Dive
 

kkmcwhat

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Don't worry, we all get our turn.

It doesn't help that "HP tanks" include a small number of no longer made tanks that are different than the rest, and an awful lot of sellers have no knowledge of what they are sell.

Below is a link to an XS scuba page that shows how to read the cylinder markings of various tanks they sell. Although some of the markings you will only find on new tanks most have been used since they were stamped ICC before it became DOT. Make sure the service pressure is below 3500# and you avoid repeating this issue. Know, or have a cheat sheet handy might avoid others.

Cylinder Markings — XS Scuba - Everything For The Perfect Dive
An excellent resource; thank you kindly!
 

napDiver

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The cheapest solution is to get a yoke to DIN adapter and use that. 3500 psi will work but keep extra tank o rings, incase they pop out. Also your reg will come out a little more. It may or may not be an issue when your on the hp80

If you dont plan on using your lp72s, switch your reg to DIN as others stated.
 

Edward3c

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The cheapest solution is to get a yoke to DIN adapter and use that. 3500 psi will work but keep extra tank o rings, incase they pop out. Also your reg will come out a little more. It may or may not be an issue when your on the hp80.
A 300bar DIN to Yoke converter shouldn’t be available. There are too many yokes that would fail with the pressure, especially those manufactured to 160 or 200bar - there are plenty still out there.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/
https://cylindertrainingservices.com/training-program/

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