How to locate the optimal height for sidemount cylinder bands

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I see. my leash probably long as i cant fit around 3 fingers to it (the bottom clip).

Which is why boltsnaps with an over-sized 'eye' are useful. You out your ring finger through the eye, allowing a solid grip without needing the length. The thumb operates the slide. The forefinger is free to act like a 'finder' for the D-ring.

People underestimate the attention-to-detail that accompanies effective training. :)

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That's a medium boltsnap for warm water diving. You can get larger boltsnaps for cold-water that will fit a finger through the eye, even with thicker gloves.

Also.. note the length of leash. It's just enough, when under a screw-band/jubilee clip to give the boltsnap freedom of movement - but no surplus length.
 
With independent or continuous bungees, the cylinders 'hangs' with no torque.

I am curious if there are exceptions to this? I currently use a Dive Systems Manta harness which is continuous bungee. I was taught to keep the leashes short as possible to torque the tanks (i have manifold valves with longer posts to hook the bungee around). It my limited experience this setup feels nice and keeps the tanks nice and snug along the body. Thoughts?
 
Which is why boltsnaps with an over-sized 'eye' are useful. You out your ring finger through the eye, allowing a solid grip without needing the length. The thumb operates the slide. The forefinger is free to act like a 'finder' for the D-ring.

People underestimate the attention-to-detail that accompanies effective training. :)

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That's a medium boltsnap for warm water diving. You can get larger boltsnaps for cold-water that will fit a finger through the eye, even with thicker gloves.

Also.. note the length of leash. It's just enough, when under a screw-band/jubilee clip to give the boltsnap freedom of movement - but no surplus length.

Really awesome advise. it's amazing how little details can make it so much easier. Literally i could change where the tank clip in the water without any fuzz.
I tried and clip the tanks(steel) on Apeks sliding D-ring, but the D-ring cannot hold the weight of the tanks even in water, it kept sliding down toward the front, so i have to clip it on my butt plate. Is there a way that we can tighten the sliding D-ring on Apeks?
 
I tried and clip the tanks(steel) on Apeks sliding D-ring, but the D-ring cannot hold the weight of the tanks even in water, it kept sliding down toward the front, so i have to clip it on my butt plate. Is there a way that we can tighten the sliding D-ring on Apeks?

Just use fixed D-rings, front and back of waist harness.

I consider sliding D-rings to be completely unnecessary. They cause many more problems than they solve.

Get rid of them.... You'll appreciate the improvement.
 
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I am curious if there are exceptions to this? I currently use a Dive Systems Manta harness which is continuous bungee. I was taught to keep the leashes short as possible to torque the tanks (i have manifold valves with longer posts to hook the bungee around). It my limited experience this setup feels nice and keeps the tanks nice and snug along the body. Thoughts?

Yeah, you can use continuous or independent bungees to wrap around the valve stem.

Personally,. I think those bungees aren't optimally configured for that. It often results in the cylinder valve / 1st stage being dragged forwards of the shoulder, causing knock-on trim problems.

Yes, it can be done.... but it's much more long-winded and nauseating to configure for good results.
 
Really awesome advise. it's amazing how little details can make it so much easier. Literally i could change where the tank clip in the water without any fuzz.
I tried and clip the tanks(steel) on Apeks sliding D-ring, but the D-ring cannot hold the weight of the tanks even in water, it kept sliding down toward the front, so i have to clip it on my butt plate. Is there a way that we can tighten the sliding D-ring on Apeks?
That's odd. I suspect you have faber tanks? They should be fine, the rubber rings from the Stealth handle faber 12l no problem...

But yeah, if the tanks are initially heavy, you might want to clip them to a fixed d-ring. You could leave a fixed d-ring far in the back (like the square ones from the stealth) and keep the sliding one in front if/when the tanks get lighter, or when you use aluminium tanks
 
That's odd. I suspect you have faber tanks? They should be fine, the rubber rings from the Stealth handle faber 12l no problem...

But yeah, if the tanks are initially heavy, you might want to clip them to a fixed d-ring. You could leave a fixed d-ring far in the back (like the square ones from the stealth) and keep the sliding one in front if/when the tanks get lighter, or when you use aluminium tanks

Yes, we all use Faber tank for main tank and ali / catalina for stages in Melbourne. Havent seen any others tanks. i would think sliding D-ring would not benefit for steel as it does not change buoyancy like ali tank. or is there any benefit that sliding D-ring can provide for steel tanks that im not aware?
If we add another fixed D-ring isnt it more beneficial to just clip the tank on the butt plate D-ring? but again that would made the tanks not in a perfect trim position.
 
Ye i will try that. the bungee was set up as factory so it very loose, i reckon.

I've heard of a few people complaining about slippy ones.... just tighten the bungee, or replace with a more powerful bungee.

But still.... have given students choice of sliding or fixed.. Vast majority have elected for fixed, having tried both.

That assumes, of course, proper technique with good attention to detail.... as more often than not, divers seek out things like sliding D-rings to compensate for skills related, not equipment performance, issues.
 

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