How much lift for doubles wing?

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Personally I would not recommend using those tanks for doubles, since, as you pointed out, they are heavy. A lot of people have trouble with doubles making them head-heavy, and if the doubles are relatively light (buoyancy-wise), then you have the freedom to move weight around on v-weights, weight belts, etc. to the appropriate position on your body. If you start out with heavy tanks, then all of that weight is fixed on the tanks, and you don't have that freedom to balance things out. There are a lot of other tank options in the same size range but that are less negative.

Also, since you mentioned it, you probably don't need to worry about 2 to 3 stage bottles in this calculation, as any dive (locally) where you have that many bottles, you will almost certainly have (a lot of) helium in your backgas. So you will have more weight from the stage bottles, but less weight on your back.

I dive both Faber LP85s and PST HP120s with a 40 pound Halcyon evolve wing. The heaviest configuration that I dive is LP85s (over)filled with nitrox and a stage bottle of nitrox. This is a bit heavy with the 40 pound wing, and feels a little uncomfortable on the surface for a long swim in big water. But I find it adequate. The HP120s always have mix in them, so it's not an issue with them, even with bottles.

Allison

Yeah, Allison, doubling the Asahis is a matter of Hobson's choice; If I want to take fundies in doubles, it's them or nothing. I'd never _choose_ them for doubles for the reasons you give, although they're nice single tanks. I'm looking to buy myself some used PSTs/Worthingtons/Fabers when I can, but it's not happening before Fundies ~ June.


Guy, we can probably loan you some tanks for your class if needed. I also have a couple of different doubles wings that you can borrow.

Those Asahi's are just too heavy for doubling up. For single tank diving they're great. Not so much for doubles though.

See above for my agreement re the tanks, and if someone's willing to loan/rent me some PSTs, Worthingtons or Faber 85s and an appropriate wing, that would be great! The Asahis are my Last Hope option if nothing else is available, as I do want to take the class in doubles. Oh, and if anyone's willing to risk a can light on me, loan/rent of one will also be much appreciated:D, because that too is currently out of reach. Naturally, any repair or replacement will be paid for by moi; eating is so over-rated!

A bigger wing is never the solution to being over weighted. Changing / swapping components like plates and cylinders is.

Being over weighted multiplies the problems associated with any buoyancy failure.

Minimum ballast = the buoyancy of your exposure suit at your shallow stop with empty tanks.

If your empty cylinders + back plate + regs + bands and manifold + can light exceed this value you need different gear. Not what you wanted to hear perhaps, but still the best approach.

BTW massively negative cylinders will limit your choices in *where* you mount your ballast, and that can make horizontal trim more difficult to achieve.

Good Luck

Tobin

Tobin, my calcs were derived from your posts on the subject. Currently my DS/undergarment runs +18, but I'm going to use more insulation for Fundies so will be up in the +22-24 lb. range, which is exactly the empty gear weight I'm looking at: -24 lb. The problem is that I lack any excess to move trim weight around.

My thanks to all,

Guy
 
Let's see...in the stable, I have a set of LP108's, LP95's, and access to HP100's and some LP85's. If it's a fundies class, I assume you'll want 32%. Let me know if you're interested as some of them have trimix in them that we'll need to boost into a cascade bottle.

As far as wings go, I have a small doubles wing, (Dire Rite Trek Wing~40 lbs lift) and a medium doubles wing (Dive Rite Classic, 60 lbs, IIRC). I also have a big doubles wing, but I wouldn't recommend it (80 lbs lift).
 
Should read -25/-10, as the Asahis are -12.5/-5 lb. each.

Ah, thanks for the clarification. I didn't see earlier that you had asked Rob already, and it looks like with 2/3 of TK and Tobin you're definitely in good hands here.

For my own diving, I also consider the importance of that hackneyed phrase "balanced rig." In addition to being able to move weight around, having >35lb of your ballast as unditchable is something I'd be wary of. In the event of a total wing failure at the beginning of your dive, you may be able to puff up your drysuit more to keep you afloat, but with the ~25lb loft of a typical drysuit undergarment, you're still left with the possibility of having to swim up (and keep afloat) 10+lb, which I'm sure you can do (but certainly not something I'd really care to do through kelp all the way back to shore).

By the way, one of my buddies did actually experience a near-total wing failure near the farthest point of our dive not too long ago, and though he swam it back on his own power, being able to hand one of us his weight belt made it a whole lot easier, especially at the Lobos ramp.

I'm sure this will be covered in class, but if you can obtain a loaner set of tanks that are more suitable for doubles, I think it'll make life much easier!
 
Ah, thanks for the clarification. I didn't see earlier that you had asked Rob already, and it looks like with 2/3 of TK and Tobin you're definitely in good hands here.

For my own diving, I also consider the importance of that hackneyed phrase "balanced rig." In addition to being able to move weight around, having >35lb of your ballast as unditchable is something I'd be wary of. In the event of a total wing failure at the beginning of your dive, you may be able to puff up your drysuit more to keep you afloat, but with the ~25lb loft of a typical drysuit undergarment, you're still left with the possibility of having to swim up (and keep afloat) 10+lb, which I'm sure you can do (but certainly not something I'd really care to do through kelp all the way back to shore).

By the way, one of my buddies did actually experience a near-total wing failure near the farthest point of our dive not too long ago, and though he swam it back on his own power, being able to hand one of us his weight belt made it a whole lot easier, especially at the Lobos ramp.

I'm sure this will be covered in class, but if you can obtain a loaner set of tanks that are more suitable for doubles, I think it'll make life much easier!


Ken - what happened to his wing? PM me the details if you don't want to hijack this thread. I'd be interested if there is a takeaway from the experience, such as enhanced predive equipment exams.
 
Yeah, Allison, doubling the Asahis is a matter of Hobson's choice; If I want to take fundies in doubles, it's them or nothing. I'd never _choose_ them for doubles for the reasons you give, although they're nice single tanks. I'm looking to buy myself some used PSTs/Worthingtons/Fabers when I can, but it's not happening before Fundies ~ June.

Taking fundies in a set of doubles that you know probably won't work does not make sense. Really this is true for diving in general, fundies aside. It sounds like you have been talked out of this already, so that's good. I would say that if you can't find a better option, take the class in a single tank. If you show up with a wonky set of doubles like the Asahis, you may end up struggling with them, which is not the best use of class time. I took fundies in a single tank and later upgraded to the tech pass. I think that makes more sense than rushing into doubles in a non-optimal way.

Since you mentioned a desire to do tech diving in the future, I will give you a little unsolicited advice. Tech diving is expensive. Between training, gas fills, gear, boat costs, blah blah blah, it costs a lot. It doesn't make sense to try to save a little money on sub-optimal gear, first because it's only a little money (in the scheme of tech diving) and second, because you will invariably decide later on to replace it anyway, when you realize it's sub-optimal. I realize that with doubling up the tanks, the components will all be reusable. This is just a general statement about how to select gear in the face of budget constraints.

Allison
 
Let's see...in the stable, I have a set of LP108's, LP95's, and access to HP100's and some LP85's. If it's a fundies class, I assume you'll want 32%. Let me know if you're interested as some of them have trimix in them that we'll need to boost into a cascade bottle.

As far as wings go, I have a small doubles wing, (Dire Rite Trek Wing~40 lbs lift) and a medium doubles wing (Dive Rite Classic, 60 lbs, IIRC). I also have a big doubles wing, but I wouldn't recommend it (80 lbs lift).

Dan, thanks so much for your generous offer. I'd think that HP100s or LP85s would be the first choice, as that's what I'm looking at buying eventually: the thought of staggering to the water wearing 105 lb. of full 108s or 100 lb. of 95s is not attractive. And judging by the comments the 40 lb. wing would probably be the way to go, with the 60 as second choice.


Taking fundies in a set of doubles that you know probably won't work does not make sense. Really this is true for diving in general, fundies aside. It sounds like you have been talked out of this already, so that's good. I would say that if you can't find a better option, take the class in a single tank. If you show up with a wonky set of doubles like the Asahis, you may end up struggling with them, which is not the best use of class time. I took fundies in a single tank and later upgraded to the tech pass. I think that makes more sense than rushing into doubles in a non-optimal way.

I wouldn't go to the extreme of 'probably won't work', more 'much less than optimum'; if I thought they wouldn't work at all I wouldn't dream of trying it (Old Faber HPs or, god help us, Heiser 190s? Thanks, but I'll pass:D). I was originally planning to do the class in singles and then upgrade later for the reasons you state, but your hubby strongly suggested Fofo and I do the class in doubles (that's it, blame the husband:eyebrow:). Of course, he had no idea I'd have to use the Asahis (thankfully, not now).


Since you mentioned a desire to do tech diving in the future, I will give you a little unsolicited advice. Tech diving is expensive. Between training, gas fills, gear, boat costs, blah blah blah, it costs a lot. It doesn't make sense to try to save a little money on sub-optimal gear, first because it's only a little money (in the scheme of tech diving) and second, because you will invariably decide later on to replace it anyway, when you realize it's sub-optimal. I realize that with doubling up the tanks, the components will all be reusable. This is just a general statement about how to select gear in the face of budget constraints.

Allison

Allison, you're preaching to the choir.:) It's because I don't want to buy sub-optimal gear that I put off buying gear for as long as possible (or in this case, because it's absolutely necessary if I'm to afford the class at this time). I borrow, rent or (sometimes) buy something quick, cheap and dirty that works which I can later pass on, like the used Genesis crossbar I'm picking up for my Asahis for $30, while I find out (and save up for) exactly what I want/need.

Of course, with Dan's offer to loan me tanks/wing that won't be necessary for the class, but I've still got them as a backup and if I buy some bands, can get some (sub-optimum) doubles experience while I'm saving up. Diving is not the first equipment-intensive sport I've been involved in, and having done the starving climber/skier bit I've always been willing to hold off buying until I can afford exactly the high-quality gear I want. Paying a lot for that doesn't bother me because I'll be using it for years if not decades (original backpack still going strong after 36 years; had to pension off my 28-year old 3-season down bag a few years back).


Ah, thanks for the clarification. I didn't see earlier that you had asked Rob already, and it looks like with 2/3 of TK and Tobin you're definitely in good hands here.

For my own diving, I also consider the importance of that hackneyed phrase "balanced rig." In addition to being able to move weight around, having >35lb of your ballast as unditchable is something I'd be wary of. In the event of a total wing failure at the beginning of your dive, you may be able to puff up your drysuit more to keep you afloat, but with the ~25lb loft of a typical drysuit undergarment, you're still left with the possibility of having to swim up (and keep afloat) 10+lb, which I'm sure you can do (but certainly not something I'd really care to do through kelp all the way back to shore).

By the way, one of my buddies did actually experience a near-total wing failure near the farthest point of our dive not too long ago, and though he swam it back on his own power, being able to hand one of us his weight belt made it a whole lot easier, especially at the Lobos ramp.

I'm sure this will be covered in class, but if you can obtain a loaner set of tanks that are more suitable for doubles, I think it'll make life much easier!

Along that line, I've always assumed that a big SMB or lift bag was there with doubles partially to act as emergency buoyancy if needed. I'd think that clipping either off to the front crotch strap D-ring or one of the shoulder rings would help with surface swimming on your back. My rig is nicely balanced for singles with my current undergarment and no ditchable weight, but doubles will likely be a different matter. I've always found the suggestion that you figure your can light as ditchable weight to be unrealistic in anything less than extremis.:wink: Survival, sure, but not for the situation you describe.

Guy
 
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I've always found the suggestion that you figure your can light as ditchable weight to be unrealistic in anything less than extremis.:wink: Survival, sure, but not for the situation you describe.

Well, "ditching" doesn't have to mean waving bye bye as you drop it into the abyss. Especially for the can light (but also for weight belts), it typically means saying to your buddy, "hey, can you carry this for me?" and handing it to them for the swim back. Nowadays, canisters are small enough where the ~2lb buoyancy swing probably won't matter so much in the grand scheme of things.

As for lift bags/SMBs used as redundant buoyancy, I have no idea. I'm guessing if you're in a bad fix, you definitely use what you got, but as far as Fundies goes, you probably shouldn't be including it into your buoyancy/contingency calculations or planning your weighting around it.
 
Well, "ditching" doesn't have to mean waving bye bye as you drop it into the abyss. Especially for the can light (but also for weight belts), it typically means saying to your buddy, "hey, can you carry this for me?" and handing it to them for the swim back. Nowadays, canisters are small enough where the ~2lb buoyancy swing probably won't matter so much in the grand scheme of things.

As for lift bags/SMBs used as redundant buoyancy, I have no idea. I'm guessing if you're in a bad fix, you definitely use what you got, but as far as Fundies goes, you probably shouldn't be including it into your buoyancy/contingency calculations or planning your weighting around it.

For Fundies I'm not, and I don't. But I keep it filed away in my mental "Mr. Murphy - party of one" folder.:D

Guy
 
Guy, I'm not sure I follow your thinking. What happened to the old rule that you are suppose to be neutrally buoyant at the end of the dive? Meaning, with 500psi in your tank(s) and no gas in your wing, you should be neutrally buoyant.
 
Guy, I'm not sure I follow your thinking. What happened to the old rule that you are suppose to be neutrally buoyant at the end of the dive? Meaning, with 500psi in your tank(s) and no gas in your wing, you should be neutrally buoyant.

It took me a few minutes to parse at first, but I think Guy is saying that he IS neutrally buoyant at the end of the dive (in the OP, he says -24lb of ballast at the end of the dive, which is about equal to and offset by the buoyancy of the drysuit), but much of that weight is from the tanks themselves (non-ditchable, non-distributable).
 

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