How much better are hot dip tanks than triple sprayed and epoxied

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Ares1590

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Location
Texas
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With the discontinuation of faber hot dip tanks, they are becoming very hard if not impossible to come by (especially where I live where scuba and steel tanks are not common), I am curious if they are worth the price bump over spray galvanized and painted steel tanks.

I can get new painted steel around $330 for a LP85 but for a hot dip LP85 it is about $410-420.

I’m not familiar enough with steel tank types to know if that price difference is worth the benefits of hot dip or not.
 
Hot dip will get ugly with use but will stay that ugly forever, painted will get ugly over time but you can repaint them. One thing I liked about white painted LP 85’s is when they get mistaken for AL 80’s and get pumped up to 3200 psi.
 
Hot dip will get ugly with use but will stay that ugly forever, painted will get ugly over time but you can repaint them. One thing I liked about white painted LP 85’s is when they get mistaken for AL 80’s and get pumped up to 3200 psi.
Awesome. Ps/ where does one find a trusty source for having their steel tank repainted?
 
With the discontinuation of faber hot dip tanks, they are becoming very hard if not impossible to come by (especially where I live where scuba and steel tanks are not common), I am curious if they are worth the price bump over spray galvanized and painted steel tanks.

I can get new painted steel around $330 for a LP85 but for a hot dip LP85 it is about $410-420.

I’m not familiar enough with steel tank types to know if that price difference is worth the benefits of hot dip or not.
The current Faber painted tanks have been on the market for over a decade. I have seen hundreds if not thousands, many abused. Scuffed and scratched yes but never seen one show excessive rust or come close to failing a visual. If i needed more tanks, I would buy painted Fabers without hesitation.
 
You just have to pull the boot off painted tanks and rinse and dry well. Make sure the paint isn't blistering or rust isn't starting under the boot. The skin tight boots with no drainage veins and a closed bottom (except for the one anti suction hole) are the worst.
Those will hold moisture and cause you a lot of long term problems. I cut mine down so they are easy to remove and re-install. All the boot is for is so it will stand up.
 
You just have to pull the boot off painted tanks and rinse and dry well. Make sure the paint isn't blistering or rust isn't starting under the boot. The skin tight boots with no drainage veins and a closed bottom (except for the one anti suction hole) are the worst.
Those will hold moisture and cause you a lot of long term problems. I cut mine down so they are easy to remove and re-install. All the boot is for is so it will stand up.
That was certainly true with the old Fabers but I have not seen any problem with the current ones. Not sure if it's the improved paint job or the better design of the modern boots -- which seem to drain very well.

It's a good idea to rinse out the boots anyway but I don't think it is as crtical as it used to be.
 
Stand them in a bucket when hosing them off, so the hosing water fills the bucket

The skin tight boots with no drainage veins and a closed bottom (except for the one anti suction hole) are the worst.
Those will hold moisture and cause you a lot of long term problems

387 THE REAL MOVING FORWARD (4).jpg


Ha ha ha they are worse than the worst, I punch an extra dozen holes even in the ones with the channels
 

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