How long should I soak the regs?

[*Floater*]

I like to unscrew the second stage covers and leave the regs (firsts and seconds) to soak in warm water for a while (overnight time permitting). Just wondering how long is actually long enough and is adding anything to the water recommended? Something that helps to remove the salt perhaps?

 

[Charlie99]

I find that a rinse of less than a minute is sufficient, PROVIDED IT IS DONE BEFORE THE SALTWATER DRIES and forms salt crystals.

If there are salt crystals or even just a light haze of salt, it takes much, much longer to remove it by soaking. A small amount of vinegar seems to help dissolve the salt, although I haven't run any rigorous comparison tests.

Charlie Allen

 

[redacted]

I soak things for at least a couple hours, often overnight. Unprotected threads like on the main body if many 1st stages and the SPG and 2nd stage end of hoses will pick up SW quickly as you decend but are not easily cleaned. A rinse will not do.

 

[300bar]

You should not soak your regs over night at all.
Just a good rince will do.
No manufacturer will garantee that the dust cap is waterproof(and it is NOT)
Balanced second stages,like atomics, do NOT like a long time soak,and will take on water.
So just give them a good cleaning with runnig water and do NOT soak overnight.

just my 2 cts,and it's your reg.But I would never soak.

IF you do soak,keep your gear under pressure.

 

[David P]

what I find easiest to do is but entire rig in brute trash can, fill up with water (including wing) and let soak overnight with the tanks pressurized. Next day reach into water and inflate wing until gear pops up out of water.

 

[*Floater*]

You should not soak your regs over night at all.
Just a good rince will do.
No manufacturer will garantee that the dust cap is waterproof(and it is NOT)
Balanced second stages,like atomics, do NOT like a long time soak,and will take on water.
So just give them a good cleaning with runnig water and do NOT soak overnight.

just my 2 cts,and it's your reg.But I would never soak.

IF you do soak,keep your gear under pressure.

I know people are concerned about soaking DIN regs, but how the water getting past a tightly screwed on DIN cap at bathtub depth pressure just doesn't seem likely to me, all the same I'll throw in an o-ring at the bottom of my DIN caps from now on just to be sure.

Why is it a problem if a balanced second stage takes in clean water? (It's all stainless steel, plastic and rubber anyway, so whatever clean water goes in shouldn't do any damage and should just dry out later on, or am I missing something?)

 

[*Floater*]

what I find easiest to do is but entire rig in brute trash can, fill up with water (including wing) and let soak overnight with the tanks pressurized. Next day reach into water and inflate wing until gear pops up out of water.

I rent tanks then soak regs unpressurized but with DIN/Yoke caps on when I get home. Is that a problem? Where would the clean soaking water go without the pressure on (assuming the DIN caps hold though) where it would do damage?

 

[spectrum]

I know people are concerned about soaking DIN regs, but how the water getting past a tightly screwed on DIN cap at bathtub depth pressure just doesn't seem likely to me, all the same I'll throw in an o-ring at the bottom of my DIN caps from now on just to be sure.

There will be general resistance to this because not all DIN regulator caps are created equal. Sherwood provides a rubber boot that I would never trust as watertight. A threaded cap that does not have a machined face designed to seal on the DIN o-ring cannot be trusted. You can't count on threads alone.

Why is it a problem if a balanced second stage takes in clean water? (It's all stainless steel, plastic and rubber anyway, so whatever clean water goes in shouldn't do any damage and should just dry out later on, or am I missing something?)

I would not want standing rinse water inside my regulator. Besides who knows what it picked up on the way in?

IMO positive pressure is the only sure fire way to go.

To the OP. The only thing I would add to the rinse water is warmth. Warm water is much more effective. I keep a barrel warming in the sun.

Here is what I do.

Pete

 

[Charlie99]

Balanced second stages,like atomics, do NOT like a long time soak,and will take on water.

I don't see balanced second stages a problem. Atomics, do however, have a "seat saver" or "seat relief" feature that opens the demand valve slightly when not pressurized. In use, the IP pushes the poppet up against the valve seat and it functions normally; but with no pressure, it is similar to continously pushing the purge valve. Although I've not had any trouble in 8 years/600 dives with my Atomics B1, I do try to keep a loop of hose between the 1st stage and the 2nd stage higher than the water level, just as additional insurance that water won't sneak by the slight opening of the demand valve and then get into the 1st stage.

Since I just swish the regs around for a few seconds, I've never had a problem.

--------------------

My advice to the original poster is that, unless you really like fondling your gear, just give it a quick rinse and then get on with life. Scuba gear isn't all that fragile.

 

[evil_xander]

I like to unscrew the second stage covers and leave the regs (firsts and seconds) to soak in warm water for a while (overnight time permitting). Just wondering how long is actually long enough and is adding anything to the water recommended? Something that helps to remove the salt perhaps?

I rinse them thoroughly after every dive and soak for an hour or so once a month or so. No problems, and I'm even being considered anal by my buddies for doing so, they do even less...

I wouldn't trust the DIN cap to not let water in if my life depended on it so they get soaked while on a tank, pressurized.

So, my answer would be - as long until they dissolve.