How do you secure your wing nuts?

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Ryan Neely

Ryan Neely

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Right on. Thanks for the feedback. In all honesty, we're (my buddywife and I) in a new Halcyon Eclipse 30. They have about five dives on them. What I have noticed is that the bolt embedded in the convertible weight inside her STA is a bit wobbly. Maybe that's the key factor. It could be we've been swapping the same wobbly STA back and forth and not knowing it (since I take them apart after each dive).

Anyway, I'll keep experimenting. Thanks for the feedback.
 

lairdb

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I used Tobin's for a long time, and then (granted, mostly as a design exercise) designed and 3d printed these:

upload_2020-9-2_13-45-7.png
upload_2020-9-2_13-45-39.png

So far still alive. (FDM printing, unless you allow for it, tends to undersize inside holes a little, so the threading is quite snug.)
 

Degenerate

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Alas ... they came with flat washers only. I'll hit the hardware store on my way to the dive site today.

I only use flat washers and so do all the people I know around here who dive bp/w as well.
Have never had the issues of a wing nut loosening up ever in over 100 dives with the same kit, they're always super tight after the dive when I disassemble my kit.
 

mattia_v

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I only use the Velcro straps that came with my Tecline (go through the cam band slots and attach to themselves holding the wing in place) and cam bands threaded through the same slots make it all a very snug fit. So no movement even without a tank. The wing has removable integrated roll prevention (soft STA if you will). Rock solid, zero movement. I don’t see any need for adding bolts or nuts.
 

rjack321

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Also have heard stories of the delrin nuts failing. I have seen single tank configurations that route the cam straps through the wing and the backplate. That could completely eliminate the need for an STA if you can do that on your equipment.
I have seen delrin nuts break multiple times. I won't use them. Metal wing nuts with lock washers are more reliable
 

TrimixToo

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Anybody here heard of blue loctite?

If you're *really* worried, use a nut over a lock washer with a nylok jam nut using red Loctite (#270 will do) generously on all the threads, and then wait 24 hours before diving to let the Loctite set up completely.* There are, of course, some complications to consider. For example, you'll want a second bp/w for the second dive, and the joints will probably have to be heated to 300C (572F) to get them apart afterward, which might damage the wing and the paint on the tanks. But it's not coming apart in the water!

* I say, I say, that's a *joke* son. Don't do this! Alternatively, do it so we can all watch you get things apart! ;-)
 

Rusty Shackleford

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Blue is easy to take apart.

And I plan on putting together a second set of doubles and wings. I plan to have a second backplate and wings. So I don’t have to constantly break things down.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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