Hollis TX-1 review

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stuartv

Seeking the Light
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I received a new Hollis TX-1 computer today. This post will cover my thoughts after just spending some time playing with it at home and configuring it for use. I'll post Part 2 after I've had a chance to dive with it (which will be this weekend if I don't get weathered out again).

I currently also own an Oceanic Atom 3.0 with wireless AI and a SeaBear H3. And I have previously owned a Shearwater Petrel 2. I'm not going to recreate the User Manual here. For that kind of info, you can go to the Hollis site and download the manual for yourself. I'm just going to talk about the basics and then things I found noteworthy - including comparisons to the other computers I have used.

And, I'll say right up front, no, it is not as readable as my H3 or a Petrel/Perdix. If it's dark, I would have to shine a light on it or press the backlight button, for sure. But, I bought it to be a backup to my H3, for use on technical dives, and for that its readability seems like it will be MORE than adequate.

What it is:

The TX-1 is a trimix-capable, puck-style, wrist mount computer for Open Circuit diving.

It uses the Buhlmann ZHL-16C algorithm, with Gradient Factors.

It supports up to 6 gases.

It has a built-in 3D electronic compass.

It comes with an elastic wrist strap, a wrist bungee mount, a USB data cable, and a rigid-sided small carrying case. Oh, and it has a plastic screen protector already installed.

It supports hoseless air integration and paired and works just fine with my Oceanic transmitter that came with my Oceanic Atom 3.0 computer.

The firmware can be upgraded by the user, using the software that Hollis has available for download on their website. I believe they only support Windows for that. I didn't see any MacOS drivers or software. Mine was already loaded with the latest available firmware.

It has 3 buttons. Two are on the lower part of the face and one is on the right side. The two front ones generally work as Menu/Previous (left button) and Next (right button). The right side button generally functions as Select. The right side button also activates the backlight. And, if you press and hold for 2 seconds, it either functions as Escape/Back (whatever you want to call it) or, from the main screen, holding it will take you to and from the compass screen.

Setting it up:

First of all, I found it easy to navigate and setup without having to consult the manual. I went through and checked/set all the settings that I could.

It has an audible alarm, which you can turn off. Then, it has a whole bunch of different settings that you can configure to have it trigger the alarm. I set the Audible alarm to off. But, I set various individual alarms to the values I wanted. So, it will display something on the screen to alert me if, for example, I exceed my max PO2. But, it won't make a sound for that. As far as I can tell, there is no way to have some alarms make a sound and others to be quiet but still display on the screen. If you turn the sound on, then anything you have an alarm set for, will make a sound and display something on the screen. I think every alarm setting does have an option for Off, though, so if you just to do your dive and not have anything making a sound or even flashing on the screen, you can do that.

It has alarms for "normal" stuff like Max Depth and Max Elapsed Dive Time. But, it also has alarms for things I haven't seen on other computers. E.g., Max END (Equivalent Narcotic Depth), and WOB (Work of Breathing). For the END, it also has an option you can set for whether or not to include the PO2 in the calculation (i.e. whether to consider O2 as Narcotic or not). For WOB, it is represented in feet (or meters) of equivalent depth if you were using Air. It only displays WOB if you are actually using trimix. It also has an alarm for ICD (Isobaric Counter Diffusion) and you set a percentage (default is 20%) for it to warn you if you are switching to a gas that is that much "lighter" than what you are breathing.

Gases:

This is a big deal for tech divers and I am very pleasantly surprised at how the TX-1 handles gases. I like it better than the H3 or the Petrel/Perdix for this.

It has a Set Gases menu where you can (*gasp*) set up all the gases you want to (or might) use. It has 6 slots for setting gases. Each gas has, not only, a setting for O2 and He, but also a Max PO2 setting. So for example, if you want, you can set your travel gas to a max PO2 of 1.4, your bottom gas to 1.2, and then all your deco gases to 1.6. But, this is just where you set them up.

Then, it has a Select Gases menu. Somewhat counterintuitively, this is NOT where you choose the gas you are currently breathing. This is even cooler. This is where you scroll through the list of gases you have setup and you mark which ones you're actually carrying. The H3 does not have this. If you aren't carrying a gas, on the H3 you have to delete it (if you don't want it to factor the gas into its dive calculations). The Petrel has the same basic capability at the TX-1, but I like the TX-1's implementation better for a couple of reasons. One, on the Petrel, when you look at the list, you tell which ones are Enabled vs Disabled by color-coding. It uses bright white for one thing (current breathing gas, I think), grey (or light white, if you wish) for another thing (enabled?), and purple (? I think? for disabled). I never liked that on my Petrel. There was nothing intuitively obvious to me about which color meant what. And, with a mask on with a colored lens (often, magenta, for me), distinguishing one from another was even more difficult.

And, two, when you switch gases on the Petrel, you see the whole list, including ones that are not enabled. Yes, I want to be able to setup and switch to a gas on the fly, during a dive, if I need to. But, that would a super rare case and most of the time, when I am switching gases, I only want to see the ones I have "enabled". and, ideally, the correct gas already selected as the default (but more on that in a minute).

With the TX-1, on the Select Gases menu, each gas has a small square on the right side. If the gas is selected (i.e. enabled), the square is filled in. If it's not, the square is empty. Having 3 buttons also makes this screen more convenient than the Petrel's 2 button arrangement, as you can scroll up and down the list with the face buttons and use the side button to enable/disable gases. This screen is much more intuitive (to ME) than the Petrel gases screen, for controlling which ones are "enabled".

Finally, there's a separate menu for actually doing a Gas Switch. On that menu, it will only show the gases that are currently enabled (i.e. "selected" on the Select Gases menu). You scroll up or down to pick the one you want and press the side button to select it. It will then change to a screen showing the detailed info on that gas. The Gas Switch screen just shows the mixes. Once selected, it shows stuff like MOD, END, and WOB. At that point, you press the side button one more time to confirm the switch.

I did look at the manual and it says that when you ascend to the right depth, the computer will display a prompt to switch to the right deco gas, thus reducing the number of button pushes required for a gas switch by 1 or 2, I think. The Petrel does this, too, requiring 2 button presses to perform the gas switch. The H3 also does this, only requiring one (long) button press to perform the gas switch.

2016-10-06%2015.46.10.jpg

2016-10-06%2015.47.06.jpg
 
Gradient factors:

It has a bunch (5, maybe?) of presets available for GF settings, including a max of 90/90, presumably for emergency situations. Or that would be handy if you're doing recreational NDL dives with a buddy that is using a computer that runs the DSAT algorithm. GF90/90 is the closest thing the TX-1 has to matching DSAT.

But, when you go to the menu to choose GF, you can scroll all the way to the bottom of the list and choose Custom.... Then you can select whatever values you want. But, the TX-1 only offers a maximum GF choice of 90. No GF Hi of 95 or 99 with this computer!

Of note at this point: According to the manual, if you exceed a tissue GF of 90 at any point, the computer will stop giving you deco credit. If you stay over GF90 for 5 minutes, then it goes into delayed violation mode. That means that it will continue to work during the dive (noting that it will not give you any deco credit while you're GF is over 90), but 5 (or 10?) minutes after you get out of the water, it will go into Violation Gauge Mode for 24 hours. At that point, you can still use it in Gauge mode, but you can't use it for any deco calculations.

This "feature" almost put me off buying it altogether. But, after I thought about it a bit, I think I should never, ever, exceed GF 90 - much less for 5 minutes or more. And if I do, then I'm probably going to sit out for 24 hours anyway. One data point in this decision for me is that I normally have been diving with my Atom (running the DSAT algorithm) and my H3. When I first got the H3, I would set it to GF 95/95 to match my Atom, when doing NDL dives. They match up pretty well that way. But, I have become a little more conservative in my approach to any kind of diving and now, the highest GF I use on my H3 is 50/85. On an NDL dive, I will still dive to the NDL of my Atom - which will often mean my H3 goes into a little bit of deco. But, what I have found so far is that after my normal ascent (respecting any deco stops the H3 dictates, but which have never yet been more than a stop at 20') and my normal safety stop, the H3 has cleared its deco. So, that tells me I'm not normally ever even exceeding a GF of 85 - much less 90. Thus, I concluded that the GF limits and potential for VGM on the TX-1 are not a reason for me to decline to buy one.

My Info:

The TX-1 has a user-configurable block of 4 lines of text (max. 16 characters per line). It displays this text when it boots up from being powered off, and if you set the "Shortcut" to be a shortcut to "My Info". But, you can only set the text of My Info by using the Hollis Windows software HTCI (Hollis Trimix Computer Interface).

The HTCI software is pretty 80s-era-looking, but it seems to work. I run Windows in a virtual machine under VirtualBox on a Linux Mint laptop. It took me some fiddling to get the USB connection from the physical port on my laptop to the Windows VM to work right, but that shouldn't be an issue for most people. Once that was done, I ran the install for the USB drivers, ran the install for HTCI, and then ran HTCI and chose the option to have it read Settings from the TX-1. It did that and I confirmed that all the alarm and GF settings I had entered on the TX-1 itself were shown correctly in the HTCI app. Then I set the My Info stuff and clicked the option to write Settings to the TX-1. That took a minute or so and looking at the TX-1, it's all there, just as expected.

HTCI also purports to be useful to download and manage dive logs from the TX-1. I won't be reviewing that as I use Subsurface (free, Open Source, and awesome as a logger and as a dive planner) to keep up with my dive logs.

The compass:

To be blunt, the compass seems kinda sucky. You get to it by starting on the main dive screen, then long-press the right side button. Once there, you press the Menu button (left button on face) to get to a menu where you can choose North orientation, Reference orientation, Calibrate, or Set Declination. When I first booted it up, it prompted me to go through a compass calibration. That was easy and only took a minute or two.

If you choose North Orientation, then it will always have an arrow pointing towards north and also a numeric display of your current heading (assuming you actually point the compass in the direction you're swimming, of course). If you choose Reference Orientation, then you can go back into the Menu and choose Set Heading. From there, you point the compass in the direction you desire and press the side button to select it. From there, it will have an arrow pointing you towards your selected heading, instead of North. I think it will also show an N when in that mode, in the direction of North. Once you've set a heading, you can also hit Menu and choose Reverse direction and it will flip your target heading to 180 degrees from how you had it set. There's also an icon displayed to one side that shows an arrow point forward (up) when you're using a Heading and that little arrow points backwards/down after you choose Reverse. Seems like it could be useful if you're a little narc'ed or rattled and can't remember whether you already flipped your heading or not.

But, none of that makes up for the fact that the compass itself seems to update very slowly. Maybe it's just because I was sitting here in my townhouse, but it is just dang laggy. Not unusable, but nowhere near as nice/quick as the Petrel or H3 compasses. Also, it does not ever show a moving band of heading numbers like I'm used to seeing on other e-compasses. It just shows an arrow pointing towards North or your chosen heading. Some other arrows to tell you which way to turn to get to your heading, and a numeric display in the corner of your actual current heading. And, just for the record, it does show current Depth at the very top and, I think, elapsed dive time.

It'll do in a pinch, I reckon. But, if I ever feel like I might need a compass, I'll be taking my DGX Tech compass in the water anyway.

Physical stuff:

The computer is definitely bigger than I like. I believe it is just the same size as an Oceanic VT 4/4.1. Definitely bigger and thicker than my Atom or H3. But, I don't think it's quite as bulky on the arm as a Petrel. It MAY be as thick "on the arm" as a Perdix, but it's definitely not as wide.

The two face buttons are stiff to push and have a solid click when you press them far enough to activate them. I don't foresee any accidental button pushes here. The side button does not have a click. It's also pretty stiff. And since a long-press of this button is the equivalent of Escape/Back, I did that a lot while playing with it. My fingertip started to get a bit sore. I don't see this as a problem at all during normal use. The button is in a bit of a recessed area of the casing, so I think it will be totally easy to operate even with gloves on (at least, thin neo or dry gloves). But, because of the way it is recessed a little bit and how stiff it is, I don't think I'll have issues with accidental presses of it, either.

I haven't even taken the bungee mount out of the package. I'm going to try it first with the elastic strap that came with it. It looks long enough for use over my dry suit, no problem. And it has a nice elastic loop to catch the tail of the strap. I like that. One of the minor annoyances with my Petrel was the lack of anything to hold the tail of the stock straps.

Last - price:

Everywhere on the Intertubes has the TX-1 listed for $550 or $950 with the transmitter. I emailed LeisurePro a couple of weeks ago and asked for a price. They quoted me $450 for the TX-1 or $725 for the TX-1 with the AI transmitter. I ended up getting an even better deal from a local dealer. But, even at $450, that seems like a pretty awesome price for a fully capable, trimix, tech computer. After looking seriously at the Nitek Q, which is $400 from DGX, I definitely feel like the TX-1 is worth an extra $50. If you truly care absolutely nothing about AI, or even the potential resale value of the AI capability, then MAYBE the extra $50 is not worth it. Of course, that is really up to each individual.

I haven't dived the TX-1 yet, but I am very pleased with it so far.
 
Besides AI, what about the TX1 is better than the Nitek Q?
 
Besides AI, what about the TX1 is better than the Nitek Q?

Well, here are some things I don't like about the Nitek Q. But, I have to admit, I'm not sure if the TX-1 has any of these limitations or not. Yet.

The Nitek Q:

Does not allow editing of the available gases during the dive.

Does not allow changing of the GF during the dive.

Total Ascent Time displayed does not include the time to ascend from your last stop.

You can't change the depth of the Last Stop. The TX-1 does allow you to choose 10 or 20' for the Last Stop.

You cannot put the Nitek Q in Gauge mode. You can use Gauge mode on the TX-1.

Gas switches are not recorded in the downloaded data. I'm not sure what gas info is included in the TX-1 downloaded data, but what gas you're using IS included in my Atom's data, and since it's AI, you can look at the downloaded tank pressure data to see when you were using that gas, to know when you switched. I expect the TX-1 to have as much data in the download as the Atom, but it certainly might not.

Has a USB port that could flood. The TX-1's USB port is "wet".

Is a 2-button interface. I like 3-button better. Also, the Nitek buttons are sized and positioned where they LOOK like they would be easy to press by accident. Especially if wearing dry glove rings.

Has a built-in rechargeable battery. My H3 has that, too, so I could live with that. But, for my backup computer, I like having a battery that I just change once a year or so. The TX-1 is easier to read than Wet Notes! :wink: And, after all, that's what it is replacing. The TX-1 is now "the thing I will consult next, if my primary computer dies."

The Nitek is essentially unsupported. No desktop software from Dive Rite. No firmware updates. I don't believe it is COMPLETELY unsupported. I do believe if I bought one and had a problem with it, Dive Rite would take care of it. But, the firmware limitations I've mentioned are never going to be addressed, I don't believe.

Costs more than what I paid for the TX-1. :)

And you did say "besides AI", but that is a big deal to me. I've been doing tech dives with my Atom as backup, partly in order to collect my gas data. It has been very educational, so far. My SAC has proven to be pretty different than my (very consistent) SAC during rec dives. I would still love to get a ScubaPro H3 with AI to be my main computer. But, realistically, even if it comes out, my budget won't stand for it. At least, not any time soon.

In the Nitek's favor:

It is easier to read.

It supports GF to 100.

It supports CC.
 
@stuartv

Do you put your Atom in gauge mode when doing technical diving and if you do, does still keep track of your gas pressure and gives your GTR when in gauge mode?

No, I have not been. So far, I just set it to match my back gas and leave it in dive mode. My deco dives so far have been pretty "light". Only once has that resulted in my Atom going into VGM. The rest of the time, it has cleared deco, even though it was set for air (or whatever my back gas was), even though I switched to 80%.
 
Well, here are some things I don't like about the Nitek Q. But, I have to admit, I'm not sure if the TX-1 has any of these limitations or not. Yet.

The Nitek Q:

Does not allow editing of the available gases during the dive.

Does not allow changing of the GF during the dive.

Total Ascent Time displayed does not include the time to ascend from your last stop.

You can't change the depth of the Last Stop. The TX-1 does allow you to choose 10 or 20' for the Last Stop.

You cannot put the Nitek Q in Gauge mode. You can use Gauge mode on the TX-1.

Gas switches are not recorded in the downloaded data. I'm not sure what gas info is included in the TX-1 downloaded data, but what gas you're using IS included in my Atom's data, and since it's AI, you can look at the downloaded tank pressure data to see when you were using that gas, to know when you switched. I expect the TX-1 to have as much data in the download as the Atom, but it certainly might not.

Has a USB port that could flood. The TX-1's USB port is "wet".

Is a 2-button interface. I like 3-button better. Also, the Nitek buttons are sized and positioned where they LOOK like they would be easy to press by accident. Especially if wearing dry glove rings.

Has a built-in rechargeable battery. My H3 has that, too, so I could live with that. But, for my backup computer, I like having a battery that I just change once a year or so. The TX-1 is easier to read than Wet Notes! :wink:And, after all, that's what it is replacing. The TX-1 is now "the thing I will consult next, if my primary computer dies."

The Nitek is essentially unsupported. No desktop software from Dive Rite. No firmware updates. I don't believe it is COMPLETELY unsupported. I do believe if I bought one and had a problem with it, Dive Rite would take care of it. But, the firmware limitations I've mentioned are never going to be addressed, I don't believe.

Costs more than what I paid for the TX-1. :)

And you did say "besides AI", but that is a big deal to me. I've been doing tech dives with my Atom as backup, partly in order to collect my gas data. It has been very educational, so far. My SAC has proven to be pretty different than my (very consistent) SAC during rec dives. I would still love to get a ScubaPro H3 with AI to be my main computer. But, realistically, even if it comes out, my budget won't stand for it. At least, not any time soon.

In the Nitek's favor:

It is easier to read.

It supports GF to 100.

It supports CC.

@stuartv and I bought our backup computers for very different reasons. We exchanged several emails, sharing what we had learned about these computers, before we made our purchases. Stuart wanted a backup for technical diving, the shortcomings of the Nitek Q were important to him. I do not do technical diving with the exception of occasional light deco. I wanted a backup for my AI Oceanic VT3, which runs DSAT. I wanted to gain experience with Buhlmann GFs along with my primary computer. My next computer will be an AI running GFs, whenever an acceptable one becomes available.

For me, the maximum GF hi for the TX-1 of 90 disqualified it. Depending on the mix and depth, it generally takes a GF hi of 95-100 to match DSAT. The available trimix and CCR modes are not important to me. The compass is very rudimentary, it works fine, but I am very used to using my wrist compass and find it quicker and easier. The rechargeable battery is fine with me. They say it lasts about 15 hours, depending on screen brightness. The computer is very easy to read at about mid-brightness and the battery life is at least as good, or better, than advertised. For fun, I've been downloading the dives from the Nitek Q to Subsurface, seems to work perfectly. My primary information comes from downloading my VT3, where I have my gas consumption and automatic calculation of my RMV

So, it depends on what you want and need. There will be pros and cons to any choice, until someone makes the perfect computer for you.

Good diving, Craig
 
Well, I guess my post that was reserved for Part 2 is too old for me to edit. Bummer that SB works that way, but anyway...

I did 2 dives with the TX-1 over the weekend. Neither ended up being long enough to go into deco, so I cannot report on usage of the TX-1 for "real" gas switches.

My dives were in the local quarry where viz was mostly about 3 feet with occasions of less than 1 foot and other times where we hit a clear pocket and it was maybe 8 feet. Without a light, it was just black until you got within 15' of the surface where it started to lighten up. We were mostly operating around 60-ish feet.

So, in those conditions I don't really have anything good to say about the TX-1. I could see my H3 display at all times. Even in 1 foot of viz, I could read the H3 without difficulty if I held it up to read. If my arm was extended and I tried to read the H3, it was not so easy at times. But, held up in front of my face it was fine.

The TX-1 was ... not so easy to read. It was generally too dark to read without some light. Turning on the backlight made it readable when the viz wasn't at its worst. But, in 1 foot viz, I would have to hold it up close and make sure my light was covered or pointing some direction that did not create any backscatter. Backscatter from my primary would be so bright that the TX-1 was too dim (in comparison) to read with the backscatter behind it.

If I tried shining my light on the TX-1 display to illuminate it, instead of using the backlight, it was readable, but took some effort. A bright light on an LCD display seems to cause the displayed text to throw shadows on the back part of the LCD, making it hard to read.

All this makes me glad I did not end up going into deco. I had my primary light on the back of my left hand and my computers both on my right arm. That means if I had needed to do a gas switch on the TX-1, the light on the hand that was trying to operate the computer would have been illuminating the particles in the water behind the computer and making it hard to read while doing the gas switch. I could see myself just saying eff it and only doing the gas switch on my H3.

All in all, I still think the TX-1 will be exactly what I wanted in a backup computer. I really only do dives in viz that low for training or practice. In viz that's 5' or better, I don't think the LCD display will pose a problem for me. As I said before, it's a backup to my H3 and it's still easier to read than wet notes (which is what a backup computer supplants, for me - meaning, it makes my wet notes my second option if my primary computer fails, instead of my first and only option).

I think my next dives won't be until I go do some NJ wrecks over Halloween weekend. I'll post an update with any further thoughts after that.
 

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