HID or LED?

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You'll love it...until you dive with someone who owns a 35w version!

:D

Have had mine for going on two years; about 200 or so dives. Wouldn't change a thing about it.

how do you change the battery when it goes?
 
how do you change the battery when it goes?

Someone else will have to answer...mine is the older "wire and plug" connector.
 
Remember the importance of warranty on these expensive lights. I went with big H on a 21 watt HID 9amp model. Absolutely loved the light and dove it religiously each Monterey weekend I could.

Then some tragedy struck my light during my introductions to diving doubles, my light flooded and I was super struck with sadness.

I shipped my light back to H and less than one week, the light was sent back, fully fixed and ready for diving.

The best part is the warranty covered everything, and when I say everything, I mean they even covered my shipping cost.

I was amazed at how they spoke to me over the phone and reassured me all would be okay since it was under warranty.

I took the light out yesterday and couldn't be happier. Just want you to be aware if you buy used you might lose the warranty and it's an expensive tool to fix should you have to fix it yourself.

Divers here have flooded their lights and had to pay out of pocket to get them fixed, be careful.

MG
 
My understanding is with the right tools, you can still get into the new style cannister if you really want. Or just send it back to LM (or Halcyon) for a battery replacement. To not have to deal with crappy Anderson connectors (I'll be crimping on a new one tonight...) or the possibility of flooding the battery, I think the new banana style is a great improvement.


mine is too
i've always wondered about the newer style canisters
 
I like halcyon's solution. same banana connectors but with a battery that can be removed and replaced without sending it back
 
Any experience in using Salvo HIDs with Li-Po (or Li-Ion) batteries for cold water (apx. 34F) diving?

They work fine. Proportionally more available energy than NiMH in cold weather actually. You are always better off having at least 50% more capacity than you expect to need. Deep discharges kill batteries regardless of chemistry. This 50% buffer gives plenty of buffer for marginal charges, colder than rated temperatures, aging cells etc.
 
I couldnt agree more. I went Benda 35W HID and its my favorite piece of gear!!!

You'll love it...until you dive with someone who owns a 35w version!


Darn, don't tempt me :no:!

Seriously though, my 21W HID Salvo Havoc work quite well for signaling even on bright days with 5-6ft churned up vis & lots of stuff in the water.
 
After reading all this, I thought that I had finally made a decision for the Light Monkey 21 HID and then I saw the new mb-sub VB-50 (mb-sub.com: VB - CAVE NEW). Not quite available yet but it looks like having a tight beam with a LED light may have been resolved. Would be interesting to see side by side beam shots.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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