HID light

[mddolson]

Here's a picture of my switching power supply to maintain a constant 12 vdc to the ballast with up to 24 vdc lead acid battery source. parts cost $12-$13

regards

Mike D

I have copensated for this with a voltage regulator circuit, that will supply a steady 12 volts @ 1 Amp to the ballast, until the battery drops below 13 vdc.

I'll post the voltage regulator in a separate post.

Mike D

 

[oxyhacker]

Nice simple design - very similar to one we've been playing with, for the Chinese 21W.

One question - is there anything supporting the O-ring/seal on the ID? It looks like it just sits there and is held in place solely by the pressure of the glass. If this is the case, then at some depth the O-ring is going to pop inward, and the light will flood. The O ring should fit in a groove to keep this from happening (it may well be that yours actually does, but since it is not clear from the drawing I figured it worth mentioning).

Here's my drawing for an MR11 HID light head.Mike D

 

[mddolson]

Yes Vance, you are absolutely correct.
The sketch is taken from an early assembly, that I used for layout design.
The oring groove detail is omitted at this stage, because I can't get a firm thickness for the glass window. The OD is ground, but the glass plate has a tolerance of +/- 1 mm (0.040") So I'm waiting to get the parts in before I finish the dimensions for the oring groove and the spacing for the retaining ring (C-clip) to hold the glass window in.

Atached is a more complete version.
regards

Mike D

Nice simple design - very similar to one we've been playing with, for the Chinese 21W.

The O ring should fit in a groove to keep this from happening (it may well be that yours actually does, but since it is not clear from the drawing I figured it worth mentioning).

 

[daveg1]

Here's my drawing for an MR11 HID light head.
It uses the Welsh Allen MR11 HID lamp and Ballast.
Eventually it will be powered by 10 NiMH C cells. (4.5 Ahr)

Right now it will be powered by 3x 6 volt 7.5 Ahr lead acid batteriesin series. At first glance this would be bad.
The high voltage will cook the ballast!
I have copensated for this with a voltage regulator circuit, that will supply a steady 12 volts @ 1 Amp to the ballast, until the battery drops below 13 vdc.

I'll post the voltage regulator in a separate post.

Mike D

Do you have a source for the bulb balast? From what I see on the WA site they no longer sell them in small qty's.

 

[mddolson]

The lamp and ballast are Welsh Allen.
They are currently avalable from an ATV supplier who makes HID conversions for ATV 4 wheelers,
At $99 in a housing , they are still cheaper than trying to get them from Wesh Allen.
here is the link http://www.trailtech.net/atv_light_parts_1.htm

My buddy and I just ordered 2.
Part# EHID-X $99 each.
We're trying the 12° flood.

Trail Tech will only sell assembled light heads.
At $99 US they are still cheaper tham WA.

Mike D

Do you have a source for the bulb balast? From what I see on the WA site they no longer sell them in small qty's.

 

[resqdivers]

I like your design! Could you give me more details on how you did the can? I have a project that this would be perfect for...parts list for the can would be nice too...I know it would be an inconvienence but any help would be nice

 

[resqdivers]

DaveG1

I like your design! Could you give me more details on how you did the can? I have a project that this would be perfect for...parts list for the can would be nice too...I know it would be an inconvienence but any help would be nice

 

[mddolson]

The cannister was the easiest part of the whole project.
It's a discarded aluminum CO2 fire extinguisher. I just turned the neck off of it in a lathe , drilled four holes for the end cap, stripped off the paint and had it gold annodized.

The end cap or plug on the cannister was machined from aluminum bar.
The walls of the can are only 1/8 inch (3 mm) thick ,so screws for latches would break thru and leak. I solved this by securing the cap with radial screws thru the side wall, but above the oring. Not rocket science, but it works.

I had to add a vent, in the cap. The movement of the cap is so large when installing and removing it , there is enough air pressure to make it difficult. If doing it again I'd use a larger stock for the end cap, so I could put a shoulder on it to stop against.

I've notice the screws are making marks, in the sides of the holes they pass thru from the force exerted by the water pressure. I have had this cannister to 200 ft and still leak free after 3 years.

Parts list is tuffer.

PM me with your email addres, I have some drawings in pdf format I can send you.

Mike D

DaveG1

I like your design! Could you give me more details on how you did the can? I have a project that this would be perfect for...parts list for the can would be nice too...I know it would be an inconvienence but any help would be nice

 

[mddolson]

Here's a shaded CAD model of my MR11 HID head, with goodman handle.
The back of the goodman handle is 1-1/4 x 1/8 aluminum.
The band is 1 inch nylon strap .
There are two slots under the llight head, so the strap is laced through it and clamped,
by the light head so it can't slip.
The two screws are counter sunk flush in the underside of the aluminum handle-back.

regards

MIke D

 

[antospedico]

hy, i would to use a welch allyn 21 watt hid light but the ballst is too large for my dive light (omer stardust 50watt) so i need to found other one smaller ballast but i need an information: can i use all ballast without differencies with this bulb?
Can yoou help me to found it please?
Thanks