budcris
Registered
has any one built a hid canister light using an automotive ballast and bulbs
hid light
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pepe
Guest
I have created a dive light using a 1.5 million candlelight power light I purchased from Costco for $30. The remaining parts cost me about $20. In my opinion this is the cheapest dive light I have seen and the cheapest light that I have seen anyone make. All that is needed is a VectorLite, J.B Weld, silicone, some PVC treading, cap, waterproof switch, drill, and dremil tool. Approximate time to make the light is 6-10 hours--that's because it takes so long for each section of glue to dry. Overall it took about 5 days because I took it step by step. I will include pictures if anyone is interested. The bulb that comes with the light is Halogen but can easily be replaced for HID.
ENikS
Registered
Pepe,
Would you care to share more info. I like your idea and would be interested at your implementation details.
More pictures?
Eugene
Would you care to share more info. I like your idea and would be interested at your implementation details.
More pictures?
Eugene
pepe
Guest
Eugene,
The light I put together has not yet been tested (except in my bathtub). I am still crossing my fingers that it will hold up to the pressures at 60 feet. I know the J.B. Weld will hold up and keep out the water but what I worry about is the thin plexiglass at the head of the light that came with the original housing. I recommend that if you make the light as I did that you replace it for something thicker. Other than that I'm sure it will do just fine. As I tested the light in the tub with the light on I told my wife that I hope the light isn't too bright because I don't want it to scare the fish away. I dive in the Pacific Northwest where the water get very dark. I can't wait to see how bright it really is.
The VectorLite (found at Costco, hardware stores, automobile stores, etc.) good for viewing in the dark at object 3000 feet away. I read all the other chats on how to build one but found the overall cost being $100+. This light will cost you $30 plus maybe $20 for parts.
Parts include: single pull/single through switch for off road vehicles found at any hardware store or autoparts store. It cost about $6. The 1" PVC male-male threaded piece (2.5" long) and cap with PVC washer is about $2. This is epoxied in the plexiglass plate I also epoxied onto the back so that I have access to the plug in on the inside for recharging. The plug in was re-sottered from the existing plug in from the light (because I didn't need the car adaptor plug in). The switch was also epoxied into the plexiglass back plate light the PVC. I just drilled two large holes in the plexiglass and epoxied both with J.B. Weld. I then took a dremel to re-shape plastic from head one light to better pack in the battery (included with VectorLite). You will see what I am talking about when you get started. I then silicone the hamp housing so it would be water tight. That's it!
Here's one more photo. If you would like I can send more photos.
The light I put together has not yet been tested (except in my bathtub). I am still crossing my fingers that it will hold up to the pressures at 60 feet. I know the J.B. Weld will hold up and keep out the water but what I worry about is the thin plexiglass at the head of the light that came with the original housing. I recommend that if you make the light as I did that you replace it for something thicker. Other than that I'm sure it will do just fine. As I tested the light in the tub with the light on I told my wife that I hope the light isn't too bright because I don't want it to scare the fish away. I dive in the Pacific Northwest where the water get very dark. I can't wait to see how bright it really is.
The VectorLite (found at Costco, hardware stores, automobile stores, etc.) good for viewing in the dark at object 3000 feet away. I read all the other chats on how to build one but found the overall cost being $100+. This light will cost you $30 plus maybe $20 for parts.
Parts include: single pull/single through switch for off road vehicles found at any hardware store or autoparts store. It cost about $6. The 1" PVC male-male threaded piece (2.5" long) and cap with PVC washer is about $2. This is epoxied in the plexiglass plate I also epoxied onto the back so that I have access to the plug in on the inside for recharging. The plug in was re-sottered from the existing plug in from the light (because I didn't need the car adaptor plug in). The switch was also epoxied into the plexiglass back plate light the PVC. I just drilled two large holes in the plexiglass and epoxied both with J.B. Weld. I then took a dremel to re-shape plastic from head one light to better pack in the battery (included with VectorLite). You will see what I am talking about when you get started. I then silicone the hamp housing so it would be water tight. That's it!
Here's one more photo. If you would like I can send more photos.
pepe
Guest
Eugene,
One more picture of the light end off light. Original VectorLite also has rubber protective housing that I put back on (not shown in picture). I will also drill a hole in handle to attach a string to attach to my B.C. I also recommend either painting on a plastic coating or spray painting with a protective finish so that the aluminum will not corrode.
One more picture of the light end off light. Original VectorLite also has rubber protective housing that I put back on (not shown in picture). I will also drill a hole in handle to attach a string to attach to my B.C. I also recommend either painting on a plastic coating or spray painting with a protective finish so that the aluminum will not corrode.
ENikS
Registered
Thank you for the pics and info. This weekend I'll go to my local Costco to see if I can get one of these for myself.
Eugene
Eugene
Have you figured out what the actual output of the bulb is that 3 million candlepower number sounds pretty bogus. If it isn't at least 25 watts you might as well just buy a cheap light from UK or someone.
it's possible to build a 25 or 50 watt canister light for about what you spent, going with the Maglite head and instant canister from the Divelite compnaion book. I like canisters a lot better than oversized one-peice lites. The mag head uses MR16 bulbs so the wattage color and beam pattern can be changed just by swapping bulbs most general purpose lites have too wide a beam to work good underwater.
it's possible to build a 25 or 50 watt canister light for about what you spent, going with the Maglite head and instant canister from the Divelite compnaion book. I like canisters a lot better than oversized one-peice lites. The mag head uses MR16 bulbs so the wattage color and beam pattern can be changed just by swapping bulbs most general purpose lites have too wide a beam to work good underwater.
pepe
Guest
The light from Costco is 55 walts. Burn time is obviously shortened but this light will fit the needs of most diving that I do. Unfortuneately there is somewhat of a wide angle on the light but then again, it is a spot light so the focus is relatively narrow. Normal usage on land the box claims the light can be seem 2 miles away. I would agree that canister lights are easier to handle underwater, but making this light was incredibly easy and inexpensive. Besides, the great thing about this light is it's use for camping as well. Next step once the light burns out is to replace the H3 halogen with HID or Xenon for longer burn time.
el-ninio
Contributor
I had looked into this a while back, but it seems the standard for car HID lights is around 100W, and that's a tad bit too much for diving. If you do come up with some setup that makes sense, please post.
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