Help Improving Pictures

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Here is your after picture

1158128862_P1010010_after.jpg


and here is mine...I don't know what the natural colors are supposed to look like so I went with what it would look like here

1158128848_P1010010-1.jpg


Naturally I was working on an email quality picture, but I think it looks pretty sharp. When you work with layers you're not touching the original picture and that way not degrading the pixels
 
are you processing the picture directly or via layers?

Usually direct. Or with layers when using the red correction action.

I would always recommend taking in RAW if you're taking available light shots like these (i take RAW 100% of the time).

hmmm... I think there is no auto focus on RAW, so I guess I will do it all on MF.

As far as WB, if you have to do it, do you do it with a slate?
 
Naturally I was working on an email quality picture, but I think it looks pretty sharp. When you work with layers you're not touching the original picture and that way not degrading the pixels

I do keep layers. But what exactly did you do to the original image? I like your results.
 
Try it with layers only, you can work it so only certain areas are effected by what ever process you selected - much more control
 
first I did a levels adjustment, then brightness/contrast on the whole picture, then only one area, tweaked the saturation and then sharpend it a bit (always do this last)
 
divebrasil:
hmmm... I think there is no auto focus on RAW, so I guess I will do it all on MF.
As far as WB, if you have to do it, do you do it with a slate?

You might want to grab a book or two on digital photography as I think it will help you see some of your options better.

RAW does not have anything to do with autofocus. RAW is a format, like jpeg; it's how the camera records the data, basically. With RAW you do not have to white balance underwater like you need to do with jpeg. RAW does not "throw out" any data - jpeg does. When you shoot jpeg the camera decides what information to keep; with RAW it keeps everything. The more data you have to work with back at the computer the better. If your camera has RAW I would highly recommend that you use it as it makes correcting any "mistakes" or "close" exposures/colour balances so much easier and produces a better end product.

The SP-350 is a nice little camera and it allows macros, WA and strobes to be added. For some more examples of what it can do, follow the link in my sig below (UW photo for everybody) and scroll down to the list of cameras to the 350 and click the link. Those images should help you get a picture in your mind's eye of things - getting closer is the number one key to better photos.

If you do want to set your white balance (you can do it while shooting RAW, you just don't really need to), simply find your custom white balance feature on your camera and take a white slate with you (white sand works Ok in a pinch). You calibrate at depth and again every time you change depth by a few meters OR when the light significantly changes. As you can see, shooting RAW eliminates that fuffing around :wink:

Nice work on these two images and looking forward to seeing more.
 
Using a wide angle lens lets you get closer to a large subject and still fit it into your shot. It also can increase available light because the light source is larger, I believe. Inon makes a very nice WA lens for the SP and an adaptor for the PT-030 housing that will also work their macro lens for really small subjects. They are bayonet type, quick detach. I'm using a Sea & Sea 16mm WA for a Nikonos V, which has a 56mm thread. Using a 48-56 step adaptor will let you use this lens. It isn't ideal, because it vignettes a bit without zooming (leaves the corners black) but it is cheap and readily available-usually about $100 on ebay. Even working in RAW, you should still probably use manual white balance for natural light shots. Otherwise your shots will vary in color at different distances from the camera. It's very difficult to fix, even for someone good at photoshop. A filter like the "magic filter" can also improve your color on natural light shots taken in good light up to 40 feet in depth.
 
first I did a levels adjustment, then brightness/contrast on the whole picture, then only one area, tweaked the saturation and then sharpend it a bit (always do this last)

justleesa, hmm... I tried to level alsobut couldn't get to that blue tone that you got. I will try again.


RAW does not have anything to do with autofocus. RAW is a format, like jpeg; it's how the camera records the data, basically. With RAW you do not have to white balance underwater like you need to do with jpeg. RAW does not "throw out" any data

Alcina,
I actually know what RAW is. What I meant to say is that the camera won't allow the use of AF when it's set to take pics on RAW.

Thanks for all the advice.
 
divebrasil:
Alcina,
I actually know what RAW is. What I meant to say is that the camera won't allow the use of AF when it's set to take pics on RAW.

Are you sure??? RAW shouldn't have anything to do with AF and I've not seen any other 350 users say this - Larry? Anyone?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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