Having his own compressor

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Interesting pictures. You have to tell me how that is done, attaching 'thumbnails', etc.

That is a rare, hydraulic driven right hand compressor. Most of these were driven by 400 volt electric motors. Shipboard missile systems. Normally, the tanks have a sight glass. This model does not, apparently. Also, the crankcase relief valve is located in an unusual position. Hmmmm. Probably used by the Air Force. I can send a 2nd stage valve spring, no charge. Intake or discharge valve? You can find somebody to punch out a seal, right? Give me your address by private mail.

If the valve spring is the problem the first stage relief valve should have popped. Heck, what do I know? Not a lot, I guess.
Pesky
:idea3:



ekarais:
I've dismantled my compressor unit. I'm adding some more pictures now. 2nd stage valve spring is broken. Another sealing under the 1st stage cylinder cover is weak. There are a couple of o-rings which have to be replaced. The rest seems to be ok! I have also found out its plate. This is a 4CFM 3000 PSI unit turning with 3750 rpm.

What is your idea? Can I find these spares?

Knd regards,

Efe
:lightbulb
 
Keep looking. Do not use Chemlube 201 (mil std 1385). The viscosity is too low (ISO 20) except for temperatures below 0C.

ekarais:
I have found out Mobil Jet oil II in big can. Can I use Ultrachem Chemlube 201 sold by Protecair?
 
It is from the airforce most probably and the tank has a sight glass. You're right. By the way, how do you know everything about these compressors? I may think you are from Kidde Company.

I'll manage the seal here. I attach the picture of the broken spring. I did not examine too much how valves work. Therefore can't say inlet or outlet. I have downloaded one of the e-books no: 8058 from the website you've told me. It is not exactly the same. Do you know if there is a manual specific to this model?

I'll follow your advice for oil.

To attach any file to a message I choose REPLY button (not Q-Reply). There is Additional options/Manage attachments at the bottom of the page.

Thanks a lot.
 
Is the function of the 1st stage relief valve discharging the pressure in case 2nd stage can not get it? If this is the case you're right it should pop. I think the spring functions partially. But on high pressures (after 100 bars) it's malfunctioning maybe. What do you think?

I was thinking there is a relation between oil leakage and gas pressure. During our discussion, I observe these are two different circuits. I should be able to reach 200 bars even I have an oil leakage. Am I right?
 
I am looking to your previous messages. You say that I have an excessive pressure in the crankcase which may cause the oil leakage. If the 2nd stage valve does not function properly and the crankcase relief valve does not function either it is possible. Am I right?

How can I fix the relief valve?

Regards
 
Normally, the oil tank relief valve does not give problems. However, it can be serviced by removing the safety wire and unscrewing the plug inside. Remove the spring and you will observe a piston. Replace the O ring which seats the piston, insert the piston and screw in the plug the same number of turns. Replace the wire.

It is possible that the entire problem is due to the broken valve spring. I cannot say for sure. However, it would not surprise me upon reflection.

Do nothing else. Do not attempt to adjust the cylinder relief valves. Do not worry about the drawing in the E manual. It is just a drawing of the valve spring and not exact. The spring is a second stage inlet. I will send a spring and a first stage cylinder gasket. If you wish to make a copy of the gasket you will need 0.003 inch aluminum shim material. Don't worry about the postage. I'll write it off to international diplomacy.

:14:

Pesky

ekarais:
I am looking to your previous messages. You say that I have an excessive pressure in the crankcase which may cause the oil leakage. If the 2nd stage valve does not function properly and the crankcase relief valve does not function either it is possible. Am I right?

How can I fix the relief valve?

Regards[/QUOTE
 
Efe, the manual at EBooks is for a third generation compressor.(Kidde compressor with Bogue electric motor). Be careful, one of these manuals is just for parts listing. The other is a technical manual. This 3rd gen is very similar to the compressor which you have which is 2nd gen. The differences have to do with the oil tank mount. Also, on the 3rd gen, the cylinder head bolts extend directly through the cylinders into the crankcase. This also eliminates a thick ring and two split rings as is on your compressor. All parts are otherwise the same. Valve clearances, torques and head clearances are the same. Use 25 pound inches for the first stage and 40 pound inches for other three stages. (The original 2nd generation manual recommends up to 55 pound inches). That is too much torque, use 40. I don't know the metric numbers.
Pesky
 
After 3 weeks holiday, I came back to the reality. In fact, my body came back and my soul is still walking around in these wonderful bays of South West of Turkey.

I couldn't have succeeded to fix my compressor. Oil leakage seems to be repaired. Besides maximum pressure I get is 50 bars and the output is very low. I think my problem is the adjustment of valve clearances and missing intake valve springs. I will dismantle it again and check the thickness of the spacers as well as try to find springs for 2nd, 3rd and 4rd stage intake valves.
 
Hey, Efe, I wonder what happened to the broken leg on that 2nd stage intake spring?

Here are pics of my Kidde compressor:
 

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