Have torch light. Want to attach bolt snap. Why not use metal ring to attach it?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

00wabbit

Contributor
Messages
1,193
Reaction score
459
Location
Anywhere,USA
# of dives
100 - 199
I bought the Dris 1000 light. I want to attach a boltsnap to it so I can attach it to my right shoulder d ring. Is there any reason I shouldn't just use a metal ring to attach the boltsnap to the light? It doesn't seem like there much of an entanglement hazard with this type of light?

I prefer the all metal connection so that I don't have to worry about caveline wearing out or coming undone and losing my light.

This light is only for recreational purposes. It will be used for night diving and low vis diving.
It will not be for caves, wrecks, etc.
 
Bottom line: if that works for you, go for it. There is no magical "right way".

An issue with the metal to metal contact is wear. Check it periodically and you should be fine.

A second issue is whether you can cut loose if it becomes entangled. Evaluate the likelyhood that you would need to free yourself from the light but could not simply unclip. Make your own risk assessment. Is fishing line prevelent where you dive?

I use caveline. Maintain your gear and it won't be an issue.

You could also attach the clip using the loop you use to attach your wrist lanyard.
 
I bought the Dris 1000 light. I want to attach a boltsnap to it so I can attach it to my right shoulder d ring. Is there any reason I shouldn't just use a metal ring to attach the boltsnap to the light? It doesn't seem like there much of an entanglement hazard with this type of light?

I prefer the all metal connection so that I don't have to worry about caveline wearing out or coming undone and losing my light.

This light is only for recreational purposes. It will be used for night diving and low vis diving.
It will not be for caves, wrecks, etc.

One reason is that a metal ring adds to the total length of the system and that can become a problem when you start using a cannister. These backup light can switch off your cannister when they are positioned too low on the shoulder strap. Another is that I have yet to find a metal ring that just does not rust...
Cave line does the job, and does it well. I always carry a spool or a reel. Any sign of the caveline used to secure the boltsnap showing wear can be dealt with at any given moment before the dive, for example the moment when you test your backup lights.
It takes mere seconds to do it...

And you can cut caveline, not a metal ring....

If ever you want to dive technical dives, why not start out right ?
 
I use quick links. If it ever does get tangled in something, just unscrew it.

quicklink.jpg

Quick Link - Stainless Steel - Berkeley Point & Suncor Stainless

I buy mine at Home Depot - under $2.
 
You want to be able to cut away the light if it even becomes entangled/trapped somehow. The assumption is that you cant reach the light, or the bolt-snap is not working allowing you to unclip the light when stuck.

IMO if you are in a situation where you can't reach the light you are most likely not in a position to cut it away in any case. Make sure you use a SS bolt snap, they are less prone to failure or getting stuck and able to unclip.

The metal ring will work fine for the diving you are doing, but make sure you understand the possible risks even though very remotely.
 
Is it likely that a metal ring will cause you problems? Not very likely. Is it possible? Well, yeah . . . The concern about cave line wearing out or letting go isn't really a big one. My doubles regs were bought used, from someone who really USED them -- they came with a boltsnap tied to the long hose. I've put about four years of dives on them, and I still have the same boltsnap and cave line.

There are a few things that will fray or cut cave line. The butts of Dorcy lights will do it, and so will the sharp edges of Goodman handles on Salvo lights. If you use cave line in those settings, you have to inspect it periodically to make sure it's secure. But when cave line is tied around things without sharp edges, it's amazingly durable.

Oh, and btw, the majority of metal rings you buy are not the quality of stainless steel you need for marine applications, and they WILL rust.
 
I use two zip ties. They don't rust, won't come untied, and with a quick twist, they break away if they get tangled on something. If one zip tie wears out or breaks, there's still one so you don't lose the light. Replace it as soon as possible so you still have that redundant zip tie. Cave line and bungee are some other things I have used and still currently use. I always stay away from metal to metal connections for everything because you never know when you'll have it caught up on something.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom