Guide to Mares regulators from 2000-2020

[lowwall]

@lowwall Don't have my own tank, but can certainly head to the local lake and rent a tank. I've swapped out BC/SPG houses; I just wasn't sure if special care was needed when dealing with either (1) connections between the 1st stage and 2nd stage generally, or (2) switching to or from using Mares' 1/2" port on the 1st stage. If it makes no difference, I'm happy to do this myself.

If I go with the brand new reg route, I'll try hooking it up and hope for no hiss, and if there's a hiss, take it down to my friendly LDS.

I'll expand my search beyond the 2008+ Abyss and include the Rover/Prestige, metal Protons, etc. Are the covers between any of these generally able to be swapped with one another, or is it only within product lines, e.g. any Abyss cover with any other Abyss-family cover, Prestige covers for Prestige only, etc.?

@divezonescuba thanks, I appreciate the perspective. Sounds like I'm moving on from the MV either way. Again, I'm definitely keeping you in mind and reach out re that HR 2nd if necessary!

All the Abyss covers are swappable. You can even get one of the new XR DR ones which are the coolest looking IMO. There's a whole thread on Abyss faceplates at Looking for mares abyss vortex second stage and faceplate . The top of page three has pictures of an old Voltrex upgraded with the DR faceplate.

I should note that I said I would stick to the post-2008 Abyss if I were buying for myself, but that's just because the earlier ones lack a port across from the lever nut and that makes them a little harder to adjust. But functionally they are all the same. So an older one will be fine if you are having someone else service it anyway. If you get a new exhaust tee, mouthpiece and faceplate, it will even look brand new.

All the Prestige, Rover, and Journey (rebrand made only for Divers Direct chain) covers are swappable.

All Proton covers are swappable. But the plastic mesh ones degrade over time and by now are all easily damaged which is why I can't recommend these regs. So many tore that Mares ran out of stock and started substituting the covers from Proton metal stages (which don't have this problem) with the result that these are almost completely out of stock as well.

BTW, because many of the plastic Protons have replacement faceplates from a metal Proton, if you are buying a used metal Proton, make sure the body is actually metal. It's obvious on the chrome versions. On the black versions like the Proton Ice Extreme, just look for the fins on the part where the hose connects.

 

[ManImCool]

All the Abyss covers are swappable. You can even get one of the new XR DR ones which are the coolest looking IMO. There's a whole thread on Abyss faceplates at Looking for mares abyss vortex second stage and faceplate . The top of page three has pictures of an old Voltrex upgraded with the DR faceplate.

I should note that I said I would stick to the post-2008 Abyss if I were buying for myself, but that's just because the earlier ones lack a port across from the lever nut and that makes them a little harder to adjust. But functionally they are all the same. So an older one will be fine if you are having someone else service it anyway. If you get a new exhaust tee, mouthpiece and faceplate, it will even look brand new.

All the Prestige, Rover, and Journey (rebrand made only for Divers Direct chain) covers are swappable.

Wait just to clarify, are you saying any of the Prestige/Rover/Journey can take an Abyss cover, or is it only an Abyss that can take another Abyss cover? I'm assuming the latter, not the former, but it'd be sweet if I could find a budget Rover/Prestige and update its look with a newer Abyss cover.

Actually, when I last had my current Abyss 2nd stage (from 2005-2007) serviced, I asked my Mares tech to replace the cover with the most current cover he could source. I wish I had been more specific and asked him to get the XR DR cover! Here's my updated reg - I think my tech ordered the Abyss Navy II cover:

In any event - if I'm not doing any servicing myself, do you have any reservations on me including pre-2008 Abyss models in my bargain hunting? If so, I'd definitely look into finding a cheap old Voltrex and updating with the DR faceplate.
An $82 example
$91 example

Also, what kind of Chicago Cubs-lookin reg is this? I've come across many of this type.
Same question, but for this "Navy" version. I couldn't find any examples of this or the other one in the first couple pages of this thread.

Although come to think of it - trying to find a pre-2008 Abyss and then updating it with the DR faceplate may be a pointless exercise; after adding in the cost of the updated DR faceplate, I might as well just get the actual DR reg being offered by divezonescuba.

Updating a Rover/Prestige with a modern Abyss/DR faceplate would be pretty awesome though; can that be done or do the internals prevent that swap?

 

[lowwall]

Wait just to clarify, are you saying any of the Prestige/Rover/Journey can take an Abyss cover, or is it only an Abyss that can take another Abyss cover? I'm assuming the latter, not the former, but it'd be sweet if I could find a budget Rover/Prestige and update its look with a newer Abyss cover.

Sorry for being unclear. The faceplates are swappable within a line, not across the lines. So you can't use an Abyss faceplate on a Prestige or Rover.

In any event - if I'm not doing any servicing myself, do you have any reservations on me including pre-2008 Abyss models in my bargain hunting? If so, I'd definitely look into finding a cheap old Voltrex and updating with the DR faceplate.
An $82 example
$91 example

The first one looks pretty grungy in the one picture where you can see the body. The second one is an Akros (plastic body), not an Abyss.

Also, what kind of Chicago Cubs-lookin reg is this? I've come across many of this type.
Same question, but for this "Navy" version. I couldn't find any examples of this or the other one in the first couple pages of this thread.

The (MR12) III and original Navy (the Abyss version is officially the Navy II) weren't included on the original posts because their production ended before 2000. The Abyss is effectively an updated and better performing III. I'd leave the III for vintage diving enthusiasts.

I honestly don't know anything about the Navy, but 30+ year old plastic body regulators don't really fill me with confidence. I did find this 2004 quote from Greg Barlow who at one time was the head of testing at Rodale's Scuba magazine "It's no secret that I'm a Mares fan, but...The Navy was overly complicated. The later versions are much simpler, and offer better breathing characteristics.."

 

[ManImCool]

Sorry for being unclear. The faceplates are swappable within a line, not across the lines. So you can't use an Abyss faceplate on a Prestige or Rover.


The first one looks pretty grungy in the one picture where you can see the body. The second one is an Akros (plastic body), not an Abyss.


The (MR12) III and original Navy (the Abyss version is officially the Navy II) weren't included on the original posts because their production ended before 2000. The Abyss is effectively an updated and better performing III. I'd leave the III for vintage diving enthusiasts.

I honestly don't know anything about the Navy, but 30+ year old plastic body regulators don't really fill me with confidence. I did find this 2004 quote from Greg Barlow who at one time was the head of testing at Rodale's Scuba magazine "It's no secret that I'm a Mares fan, but...The Navy was overly complicated. The later versions are much simpler, and offer better breathing characteristics.."

Makes sense re faceplates.

Understood; I'll generally avoid pre-2008 ones unless I come across something in fantastic shape.

 

[glaterza]

Hello guys!
My name is Gastón, totally new to the forum. This is my first post!
I'm an argentinean living in Uruguay. I took my first course at my university, in 1999. The CMAS style clubs. My instructor was a old school vasque guy, friend of Cousteau. I learnt the old school way, we didn't even have BCDs or octos, and we used those old tanks with that stick thingy to activate the reserve.

After a couple of years, I bought my first equipment set: pinocchio mask, antenal snorkel and fins, Mares Abyss 1st and 2nd, a Mares basic BCD, 15l steel, basic SPG, no octo, no computer (paper tables, no deco limit curve), no depth meter (I counted knots on my buoy). From there, I always dived with my own friends, never again had any kind of relationship with the industry until this year.
Oh boy things have changed.

After a few years without diving, I tool my reg to a technician. It was actually its first service. The technician could not believe what he was hearing ahahah! No octo? NO CONSOLE???
Following his advice, I'm recerting with SDI, discovered something called 'trim'. To my suprise, I was not overweighted, I think I figured it out on my own.
I've dived that Abyss everywere, including quite a lot of dives in Ushuaia, in near freezing temps. I had never heard anything about regs freezing from my old vasque triton instructor.
I changed hoses to a long primary and short sec, I had to buy an adaptor from Dive Gear Express.
I hope I can get the CWD soon, as I still go to Ushuaia.
If you have the 1/2 hose, you might only need the adaptor that goes into the first stage. The 2nd stage adaptor was in my original hose.


Some pics attached of the adapter, hoses, and the whole rig. Oh boy I love that reg.

I'm still suprised I went from counting the knots on my line, to long hose, computer and transmitter.

Long live CMAS!

 

[lowwall]

Bienvenido.

I don't think you need the CWD kit. That original Abyss first is a big chunk of metal that is naturally freeze resistant and your experience backs that up.

The other theoretical advantage is it seals off the ambient chamber which keeps it clean. But on a diaphragm first stage a good rinse serves the same purpose and you obviously take care of your reg so that reason goes away as well.

 

[Valtman]

I'll post some pictures when I have the rest of the parts and get to build this puzzle.

If anyone's interested seeing the Abyss 12S sidemount regs I posted the pics on another thread. Still to be seen how they actually perform.

Opinions on "downgrading" sidemount regulators

Hello, f my memory is correct the only difference in breathing comes from the tuning of the 2nd stage. That would again make DFC marketing BS. So hard to decide DFC does not facilitate breathing. It just counteracts the IP-drop when starting to breathe. Your work of breathing is determined by...

scubaboard.com

 

[jellycatsdad]

I can tell you that I would not accept a technical diving student or even a recreational rescue student with a Mares MV/Dacor or similar sized second stage. If you wanted to go a less expensive route, the Rover previously mentioned would be a much better choice than any of the small diaphram second stages.

I have a MV as my Octo - my primary is a Proton Metal. I’ve been flirting with the idea of primary donate but I do want to replace that as my secondary for now. What are my upgrade paths? I’ll transition over to primary donate on my next set of regs(after I test out an Aqualung-style mouthpiece, I absolutely love my SeaCure but that can make primary donate difficult).

 

[uw-systems]

Is there any guide to what Mares 1st Stages take what HP seat/poppet/spring combo's now?
The TB's are a bit sparse on clear details. I can infer a bit, but right out saying in detail would be nice.
I would not mind a chart for all 1st stages, but I own (3) MR12 Mk3, MR22, MR22 DFC, MR22 slim body, 15X (2024), 52X, 28X (2022) specifically.
Is the 30N poppet just a rename of the 2018 edition and he 30N the new cold water optimized with a new wider balance chamber required?
Is Mares 50N the same seat material as the Apeks/Aqualungs translucent blue material as of the past decade?
Is there a guide to when specific models where cut over to the new 30N/50N poppets?

Side step...
Any new resource for Apeks/Aqualung service manuals now that Aqualung USA took down all their servers when they closed down their USA offices...

Cheers.

 

[lowwall]

Is there any guide to what Mares 1st Stages take what HP seat/poppet/spring combo's now?
The TB's are a bit sparse on clear details. I can infer a bit, but right out saying in detail would be nice.
I would not mind a chart for all 1st stages, but I own (3) MR12 Mk3, MR22, MR22 DFC, MR22 slim body, 15X (2024), 52X, 28X (2022) specifically.
Is the 30N poppet just a rename of the 2018 edition and he 30N the new cold water optimized with a new wider balance chamber required?
Is Mares 50N the same seat material as the Apeks/Aqualungs translucent blue material as of the past decade?
Is there a guide to when specific models where cut over to the new 30N/50N poppets?

There are 3 sets of poppet/spring/balance chamber that covers all Mares first diaphragm stages.

The first is unique to the smaller and long discontinued 42. Parts are still available for the 42, but updates stopped with its version of the first Trimaterial poppet.

The next group, let's call it the 30N group, contains all of the older models - 12, 16, 22, 32, and 52 - and early 15X, 72X and 82X models.
- current poppet: "Trimaterial 2k22 30N" (part number 46201815)
- current spring: "Spring 30N" (part number 46201284)
- current balance chamber: "HP Chamber" (part number 46201275)

The final group, let's call it the 50N group, contains later 15X, 72X and 82X first stages and all 62X and 28XR first stages.
- current poppet: "Trimaterial 2k22 50N" (part number 46201816)
- current spring: "Spring 50N" (part number 46202047)
- current balance chamber: "HP Chamber 50N" (part number 46202045)

The 30 N and 50N groups all use the same replaceable seat (aka volcano orifice). The current seat is part number 46201541.

Caveats/Notes:

- The 30N poppet is just the latest in a long line of physically interchangeable poppets that go all the way back to US Divers/Aqua Lung days. They will all fit, including current Aqualung poppets, and will likely seal OK under recreational dive conditions for a while. But it's not that hard to get Mares parts so why take a chance? That said, I am happy to use up previous versions of the poppet that I have on hand., including the ACT and earlier Tri-Material versions.

- Both 30N and 50N parts will continue to be made. Parts are not interchangeable between the 30N and 50N groups. You either need all of one or the other.

- Only the 72X, 82X and later 15X can be upgraded from 30N to 50N parts. See the attached TB 40 for how to tell if your 15X is upgradeable. The upgrade kit is 46201791 "Kit Upgrade First Stage 50N". If you have a 15X, 72X or 82X, the only way to tell which set you have is to disassemble the stage. Unless the 50N versions note it on the box?

- Versions of the older first stages that began with the V prefix used a different style of poppet and seat along with a different spring. These are not compatible with any of the 30N style poppets. These should be upgraded to 30N parts when servicing.

- Mares states that the Abyss Navy II has to stay with an older service kit. But that is only necessary if you want to keep it within its original military contract specifications. If you don't have a work related requirement to do this, then you should upgrade to the latest 30N parts which have double the expected lifespan (2 year service intervals instead of 1).

- See the attached tech bulletins for service kit part numbers and more info. Note that there's an error in the photos for TB 42-bis. It has a photo of the springs where it is supposed to show the older poppets. Here's valid images of the current and immediate past generation poppets (from Mares Japan). I don't know what the sealing surface is made of.