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f3nikon:Hey thats a nice toy! Any chance in posting some test shots like these even if on land?:
http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15589
When varying the aperture opening, in a true TTL system, the strobe should adjust the power to get the same exposure within its aperture range. The Olympus SP-350 test has some exposure differences between f5.6 and f8.0, like shooting in manual! Actually even between the other apertures there is a difference.
bandit_TX:That article is from 2004. Things continue to improve. I've been shooting Ikelite's TTL underwater for at least 4 years. First with a C-5050 and the optical controller that mimics the in camera TTL. Now I shoot a Canon 20D in the Ikelite housing with true eTTL-II. It works. It's just that simple. It also works on land if you need a big flash and don't mind shooting from a housing (no port needed). Yes, you can shoot manual and be successful. You can also blow alot of underwater time bracketing shots and finding the sweet spot. I almost never have to go to manual anymore, but it's there if I need it. I also have instant TTL flash compensation under my thumb on the back of the housing, +/- 2 stops in 1/2 stop steps. The same controller on the back of the housing allows me to instantly switch to manual with (8) 1/2 stop steps, and I never have to touch the flash.
mjh:I can't seem to upload photos so if you want to see pics with camera settings you will have to go here: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15598
Played with the Heinrich TTL in macro and WA situations. Nothing scientific and if anyone has ideas of ways to test just let me know. Equip: D200, Aquatica, Inon D2000ws x 2, Nikon 60mm lens and 12-24mm lens.
General impression:
Macro: TTL worked fairly well with manual setting and strobes set "eTTL"� power dial set to "2.8/B"�. You can change SS or Ap and the strobes seem to compensate. If you use a Ap Priority it seems to set the SS to 1/15 as a default.
WA: Again shot mainly Manual, leaving camera settings stactic and adjusting strobe output. Seems best results were with the Power Dial set to "B/2.8"�. At times increasing the power 4-5 stops did not make a huge difference in photos.
With the WA viz was about 20-30feet and the flash did a fairly good job of not increasing backscatter. One problem with WA: trying to shoot two Ling Cods, the light was ok used the internal Inon focus lights but everytime the photo just came out black. Turn 10 degrees put a white anem in the focus spot and get a good shot. Move back to the dark brown Ling Cod and again nothing.