Got TTL?
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Actually I do 
. I have been shooting manual since I went digital (so I know how). I thought I needed a new toy to play with so I picked up a Sea & Sea TTL converter which has shown great results with my system (D200, Subal, Inon Z240(s)). Is it needed.....no. Will it be fun testing it next week in Bonaire.....yes!
Dave
. I have been shooting manual since I went digital (so I know how). I thought I needed a new toy to play with so I picked up a Sea & Sea TTL converter which has shown great results with my system (D200, Subal, Inon Z240(s)). Is it needed.....no. Will it be fun testing it next week in Bonaire.....yes!
Dave
Hey thats a nice toy! Any chance in posting some test shots like these even if on land?:
http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15589
When varying the aperture opening, in a true TTL system, the strobe should adjust the power to get the same exposure within its aperture range. The Olympus SP-350 test has some exposure differences between f5.6 and f8.0, like shooting in manual! Actually even between the other apertures there is a difference.
http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15589
When varying the aperture opening, in a true TTL system, the strobe should adjust the power to get the same exposure within its aperture range. The Olympus SP-350 test has some exposure differences between f5.6 and f8.0, like shooting in manual! Actually even between the other apertures there is a difference.
I can't seem to upload photos so if you want to see pics with camera settings you will have to go here: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15598
Played with the Heinrich TTL in macro and WA situations. Nothing scientific and if anyone has ideas of ways to test just let me know. Equip: D200, Aquatica, Inon D2000ws x 2, Nikon 60mm lens and 12-24mm lens.
General impression:
Macro: TTL worked fairly well with manual setting and strobes set "eTTL"� power dial set to "2.8/B"�. You can change SS or Ap and the strobes seem to compensate. If you use a Ap Priority it seems to set the SS to 1/15 as a default.
WA: Again shot mainly Manual, leaving camera settings stactic and adjusting strobe output. Seems best results were with the Power Dial set to "B/2.8"�. At times increasing the power 4-5 stops did not make a huge difference in photos.
With the WA viz was about 20-30feet and the flash did a fairly good job of not increasing backscatter. One problem with WA: trying to shoot two Ling Cods, the light was ok used the internal Inon focus lights but everytime the photo just came out black. Turn 10 degrees put a white anem in the focus spot and get a good shot. Move back to the dark brown Ling Cod and again nothing.
Played with the Heinrich TTL in macro and WA situations. Nothing scientific and if anyone has ideas of ways to test just let me know. Equip: D200, Aquatica, Inon D2000ws x 2, Nikon 60mm lens and 12-24mm lens.
General impression:
Macro: TTL worked fairly well with manual setting and strobes set "eTTL"� power dial set to "2.8/B"�. You can change SS or Ap and the strobes seem to compensate. If you use a Ap Priority it seems to set the SS to 1/15 as a default.
WA: Again shot mainly Manual, leaving camera settings stactic and adjusting strobe output. Seems best results were with the Power Dial set to "B/2.8"�. At times increasing the power 4-5 stops did not make a huge difference in photos.
With the WA viz was about 20-30feet and the flash did a fairly good job of not increasing backscatter. One problem with WA: trying to shoot two Ling Cods, the light was ok used the internal Inon focus lights but everytime the photo just came out black. Turn 10 degrees put a white anem in the focus spot and get a good shot. Move back to the dark brown Ling Cod and again nothing.
bandit_TX
Contributor
That article is from 2004. Things continue to improve. I've been shooting Ikelite's TTL underwater for at least 4 years. First with a C-5050 and the optical controller that mimics the in camera TTL. Now I shoot a Canon 20D in the Ikelite housing with true eTTL-II. It works. It's just that simple. It also works on land if you need a big flash and don't mind shooting from a housing (no port needed). Yes, you can shoot manual and be successful. You can also blow alot of underwater time bracketing shots and finding the sweet spot. I almost never have to go to manual anymore, but it's there if I need it. I also have instant TTL flash compensation under my thumb on the back of the housing, +/- 2 stops in 1/2 stop steps. The same controller on the back of the housing allows me to instantly switch to manual with (8) 1/2 stop steps, and I never have to touch the flash.
bandit_TX:
Which things? Are they able to read the light reflecting off the CCD sensor like they did with film, as in a true TTL system? I have instant compensation under my thumb as well...its called the aperture adjustment, and I did not pay hundreds of bucks for that feature.
If your so called "TTL" works for you by all means use it, in fact try it on wide angle shots as well. It would still be nice to know that your "TTL" system is working as it should by performing the same test above...or are you just taking that on faith?
bandit_TX
Contributor
I take it that my pictures look right, the best test there is, and I don't have to bracket the shots to get there. Wide angle works fine if there is a backdrop (reef). It doesn't work for blue water, of course it doesn't work very well on blue sky either. And changing aperature isn't always what you want. Sometimes wide open to reduce depth of field is what you want, then what? I guess you shoot a manual flash on land too.
mjh:
Thanks, great report. At TTL mode setting on the strobe and aperture mode on the camera a true, working TTL system should keep all the exposures the same on each of the aperture openings (within the specs. range). The image also has to be in the middle of the camera's viewfinder because this is what the TTL sensor is looking at in a true TTL system. All images has to be dead center and fill the area the TTL sensor is looking at, so this will limit the "artist" mode shooting because all subjects have to be dead center. In manual mode flash the camera/strobe does not care where the subject is placed.
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