Got my Scout today.... ehh
- Thread starter Mo2vation
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jplacson
Guest
Ok, I can't seem to find any solid info on the net regarding the actual voltages of the UK lights...
How many volts is the UK SL4 and SL6 bulbs? I heard that the Halcyon scout uses an SL6 light head/bulb/bezel
How many volts are these bulbs?
How many volts is the UK SL4 and SL6 bulbs? I heard that the Halcyon scout uses an SL6 light head/bulb/bezel
How many volts are these bulbs?
Dryglove
Contributor
OP
Die thread Die....
BWERB and I did a dive recently on my Scout light. PNW, my 10 watt was giving me issues (Halcyon just replaced it...those guys rule)... so we went down in horseshoe viz with the scout.
Nice red dot.
Scouts - yeah, whatever.
They do what they're supposed, but so does meatloaf. No big whip.
K
BWERB and I did a dive recently on my Scout light. PNW, my 10 watt was giving me issues (Halcyon just replaced it...those guys rule)... so we went down in horseshoe viz with the scout.
Nice red dot.
Scouts - yeah, whatever.
They do what they're supposed, but so does meatloaf. No big whip.
K
RichLockyer
Guest
The SL6 is intended to be used with 6-C cell batteries.
Running it on 3 would result in a filament that barely glows.
jplacson
Guest
I think the scout uses an SL4 head.
If I'm guessing right, by those numbers...
The SL4 lamp should be either a 4.5v or 5v bulb. Thus the Scout would either give it just the right voltage, or run undervolted.
The SL4 however would overdrive it by either .5v or a full 1.5v thus making it a LOT brighter.
The SL6 however should probably be a 7.5v or 8v bulb... overdriven to 9v.
Here's a compromise for those who don't want to spend too much on the Scout.
Use NiCd ... or better yet, NiMH batteries. These batteries dish out 1.2v per cell so you're CLOSER to the bulbs actual working voltage, at the same time, getting a bit more brightness than the Scout...but getting better reliability than running alkalines.
NiMH are pretty strong... they last about 2/3 the burn time of an alkaline so you don't lose that much burn time... and since they don't overdrive the bulb that much, your lamp will last a lot longer.
If I'm guessing right, by those numbers...
The SL4 lamp should be either a 4.5v or 5v bulb. Thus the Scout would either give it just the right voltage, or run undervolted.
The SL4 however would overdrive it by either .5v or a full 1.5v thus making it a LOT brighter.
The SL6 however should probably be a 7.5v or 8v bulb... overdriven to 9v.
Here's a compromise for those who don't want to spend too much on the Scout.
Use NiCd ... or better yet, NiMH batteries. These batteries dish out 1.2v per cell so you're CLOSER to the bulbs actual working voltage, at the same time, getting a bit more brightness than the Scout...but getting better reliability than running alkalines.
NiMH are pretty strong... they last about 2/3 the burn time of an alkaline so you don't lose that much burn time... and since they don't overdrive the bulb that much, your lamp will last a lot longer.
RichLockyer
Guest
For a general-use lamp, that may be fine, but for a backup light, you want to avoid rechargeables. When you need the backup light is not the time you want to discover that it needs charging.
My Scouts are turned on once each diveing day for about 5 seconds. Other than that, they're maint free except for the annual battery change.
Aquamaniac
Contributor
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You will also find the discharge curve on the NiMh (or NiCD) to be very steep as opposed to Alkaline.
As a result, the bulb goes from full brightness, to nothing in a very short time, giving you little warning, or time to react.
An Alkaline however, will start to weaken over a longer period, giving you more time to "sort things out"
Dave
As a result, the bulb goes from full brightness, to nothing in a very short time, giving you little warning, or time to react.
An Alkaline however, will start to weaken over a longer period, giving you more time to "sort things out"
Dave
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