Got Burned by DACOR

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I picked up a dacor 960 paired with pacer XLE and one of those banana looking octos for cheap off craigslist. I didn't quite know what I was getting into, I was actually their to buy some cheap dive weights and when I saw them they looked so clean and pristine that I picked them up not knowing what I was getting in to. So, now I have pulled apart the 1st stage, it is relatively simple with a vice and a couple tools, and have ordered up rebuild kits for both stages off amazon. Frankly it seems very straight forward, that may be nievity on my part but it just doesn't seem that difficult. What is the recommended test when I am completed? Should I verify the lp output pressure? and what should that be? I have standard pressure gauges and wasn't planning on picking up any special gauges if i don't have to. Also, I planned on checking the crack depth on the second when I am done. Any useful advice, other then pointing me to a brass recycling center, would be helpful. Thanks.
 
You can download the service manuals for Dacor gear at http://www.frogkick.dk/manuals/dacor/ . "Dacor Regs Vol 2 1st stages Pt 2" has the 960 in it and will have all the info you will need including IP setting, adjustment, and tuning. You will have to get part one of this manual from knotical though as forgkick doesn't have it for some strange reason. You have found a parts source but dsenloe also has parts for Dacor. You will definitely need an IP gauge. leisurepro.com has one on sale right now for $18.70 that plugs into the BCD quick disconnect hose. Check out the "Repairing your own Gear" forum in the "Do It Yourself - DIY" section under the The Equipment of Scuba Diving Heading. There is a wealth of information and plenty of friendly experienced knowledge to tap into there.
 
You can download the service manuals for Dacor gear at http://www.frogkick.dk/manuals/dacor/ . "Dacor Regs Vol 2 1st stages Pt 2" has the 960 in it and will have all the info you will need including IP setting, adjustment, and tuning. You will have to get part one of this manual from knotical though as forgkick doesn't have it for some strange reason. You have found a parts source but dsenloe also has parts for Dacor. You will definitely need an IP gauge. leisurepro.com has one on sale right now for $18.70 that plugs into the BCD quick disconnect hose. Check out the "Repairing your own Gear" forum in the "Do It Yourself - DIY" section under the The Equipment of Scuba Diving Heading. There is a wealth of information and plenty of friendly experienced knowledge to tap into there.
I'm guessing you meant vintagedoublehose.com instead of frogkick. The only dacor file I see on frogkick is the one with 2002 change pages.

For the 960, he should not need part 1.

btw, another ScubaBoarder has volunteered to get the missing Pt 1 file on the VDH website. I sent it to him and am now just waiting for success.
 
Last edited:
I PMed Knotical and he directed me to the manual. I ordered the parts from amazon and they arrived, no HP diaphragm or seat for 1st stage, and no diaphragm for second stage. Basically a couple o rings at 30 a kit, am returning, I can source viton o rings locally without issue. Now, I have seen the HP seat here Northeast Scuba Supply but have not found a source for the 2nd seat or ether diaphragm. Will PM dsenloe and let you guys know. Thanks for the help, I am excited to put some life back into these old regs.
 
btw, another ScubaBoarder has volunteered to get the missing Pt 1 file on the VDH website. I sent it to him and am now just waiting for success.
ta - da !

It's there now! Thanks to the anonymous behind-the-scenes ScubaBoarder (and his contacts at VDH). The only reason he's anonymous is because he made the offer via PM <the P meaning Private>. He can choose to reveal himself, or not. I will reveal that he's one of the handful who frequently provide so much help in the equipment forums.
 
I PMed Knotical and he directed me to the manual. I ordered the parts from amazon and they arrived, no HP diaphragm or seat for 1st stage, and no diaphragm for second stage. Basically a couple o rings at 30 a kit, am returning, I can source viton o rings locally without issue. Now, I have seen the HP seat here Northeast Scuba Supply but have not found a source for the 2nd seat or ether diaphragm. Will PM dsenloe and let you guys know. Thanks for the help, I am excited to put some life back into these old regs.

Hardy a kit at all then. That's exactly the reason I've chosen to shy away from eBay and amazon as a parts source. Even though they say that actual contents may vary, it just seems strange that they use the same picture for all their kits and they are all the same price. The diaphragms are a standard size and are available from Trident if you can find a Trident dealer willing to sell you reg parts. The diaphragms in my XLEs are in factory fresh condition, soft, pliable, no holes or tears, and no wear on the center plate. I see no reason to replace them in mine. As far as the first stage diaphragm, someone in the DIY forum cuts their own 1st stage diaphragms from sheets of the appropriate material. I can't remember who or which thread I read it in or I would give credit, but it is in there some where. And if I'm not mistaken you maybe able to make your own LP seats as well. You can also get the sintered filter replacements from mcmaster-carr.

It's there now! Thanks to the anonymous behind-the-scenes ScubaBoarder (and his contacts at VDH). The only reason he's anonymous is because he made the offer via PM <the P meaning Private>. He can choose to reveal himself, or not. I will reveal that he's one of the handful who frequently provide so much help in the equipment forums.
That's great news knotical. So unless I am mistaken that should complete VDHs Dacor library?
 
It's probably not safe to re-use aformerly installed diaphram, but he problem comes with trying to identify the Dacor hp seats. They had a series of "upgrades" that probably came about because of seat failures.
They used to ship the seats in different colored plastic caps, like seen on a hose end, but when the cap came off they all looked the same.

If anyone wants to buy all my "collectable" dacor parts contact me.
 
It's probably not safe to re-use aformerly installed diaphram,....

Could you be more specific? High grade Silicone, depending on the type, can have a library life of 40+ years. No big deal, diaphragms are pretty cheap to replace. I just don't see the point in replacing a perfectly good part. In other words if it ain't broke don't fix it.

...he problem comes with trying to identify the Dacor hp seats. They had a series of "upgrades" that probably came about because of seat failures....

Interesting point. Thank you for pointing that out. But I wonder if that applies to the after market HP seats offered by Trident?
 
The diaphrams are crushed in place when the clamp ring is torked down.
The clearance between the clamp ring and the body when the threads bottom determine the necessary thickness of the diaphram. A previously crushed diaphram will not be securely clamped in place and may well blow out. Instant loss of air when this happens.
I would be surprised if the old engineering drawing exist anymore, so specing a reproduction or aftermarket diaphram must be done without the benefit of having the engineering drawings.
The Olympus 400,800,then Pacer models 350,360,900,950 and 960 all used different HP seats but looked about identical.
 

Back
Top Bottom