Getting into tech

[pacchill]

I dig Salvo's lights. Great service, great lights and they use Brightstar bulb (so does and Dive Rite) which is really quite tough compared to the Welch-Allyn in the Halcyon. BUT!!! if the price is right snatch it up! Just take care of the head. GOOD CARE. HID bulbs are not cheap.

On another note, a 10w will get you going... but in todays market save a little more cash and get somthing bigger. Most every one has a 21w, or bigger like 25 and 50

 

[Colliam7]

I have now read that it is a good idea to keep all your regs the same. Deco's and backgass.

There are levels of 'sameness'. One level is to have the same reg for both backgas tanks, and all deco bottles. For example, I have a 'tech' set of 4 Zeagle ZX50Ds. Two are set up for my backgas (one has a long hose reg and BC inflator hose, the other has the SPG and necklace reg), and two are set up for deco bottles (same short SPG hose, same length second stage hoses). Another level, is to have all the same manufacturer, albeit different regs for different uses. I have another 'tech' set which includes two ATX200s for backgas, and two Apeks AT20s for deco bottles. Works fine. A third level is essentially no sameness. My dive buddy has four different regs. Two are ScubaPro (albeit different models), that he uses for backgas. The two deco regs are different manufacturers. He did this for economic convenience - these are the regs he had when he started tech. It works just fine for him (he also is a reg tech and services his own gear).

Do you have all regs capable of going to 100% and then less than 40% is ok too??

No. My ATX200s are not O2 cleaned, while the AT20s are. Two of my Zeagles are, two aren't. If the regs are O2 cleaned, you can use any percentage of oxygen. But, if one of my (O2 clean) deco regs fails on a dive trip, I am going to swap it out for another deco reg, or try to service it, or abort the trip. I won't reconfigure one of my (none O2 clean) backgas regs as a deco reg. Too much trouble.

Also an apeks tx 50, and tx 40, the 50 has a swivelling turret and it is mentioned that is a nice feature, couple less inches of hose needed, and ease of breathing compared to something w/o a swivelling turret. However isn't the swivelling turret itself another point for failure from a DIR prospective??

Swivels are a nice feature, not essential, but not going to fail and kill you, either. My Zeagles all have swivels, none of the Apeks do. It doesn't make a lot of difference for hose routing, at least for me.

I mean this info is coming from the same page that just got done telling me that I should have all the same regs!! That way if one breaths funny at all then I would notice compared to the others. I think that is a great idea!!

Yes, great idea, but again not essential. You should be able to detect a noticeable change in performance of a particular reg if you dive it enough to know how it 'should' perform.

I want to learn as much as I can so as I plan on spending all of this money that I am going to spend I have a really good plan of attack for what equipment to aquire next, and why. I don't want any regrets (like that junk probe lx I bought)

There may always be some regrets. You may buy something, really like it, use it for a period of time, then decided you want something else and 'regret' buying whatever it was in the first place. Or, your tastes just change. I bought a used OMS SS BP, with a deluxe harness, a couple of years ago, Didn't really like it at first, but was too lazy to sell it. Decided to try it one last time on a FL trip, liked it more, and now it is the only thing I dive with my DS, because of the quick release buckles (definitely not DIR on that one) that allow me to get out of my suit easily at the end of a dive. At one point, I liked having the separate chest strap that the harness comes with, now I don't use it.

 

[c6six]

I really appreciate all the help everyone. I know that I'm going a bit over the top here. But again, I just want to make as many good decisions as possible. Looks like I'm going to hold off on getting the Worthington 130's. I got an email from my local shop that someone is selling a set of twins......

" The tanks are Faber low pressure steel OMS 112, with OMS bands and isolation manifold. The original hydro date is 2004. The tanks will have a current visual inspection and cleaned for NITROX service."

vs the cost of new kind of hard to go wrong don't you think??
Anyone have a comment about these tanks??

Also I have a question about fins. Are scuba pro jet fins the only way to go?? Is there anything else that is DIR acceptable?? I have Sherwood Kinesis 12's right now.

Oh and if I wanted to get rid of my Oceanic Probe LX what is the best way of doing that ebay?? Since my shop isn't much interested in taking it in on trade or anything.

 

[Colliam7]

Anyone have a comment about these tanks??

Low pressure steels are a matter of some 'discussion' -some love them, others don't. The 112s (presume they are 2640psi working pressure, not 2400) are about the same external dimensions and weight as HP130s, but are 112cf not 130cf. One possible advantage you may hear is that you can overfill a low pressure tank (e.g. to 3000 psi) and end up with more gas than you do with HPs. Some shops will do that, others won't The issue will be price. It will cost somewhere in the $850 - $1000 range to double up a set of new 130s, when you add in valves, bands, manifold, etc. If you can get the 112s for less than $500, it would be a good deal; $500-600 would still be OK; much beyond that and I would lose my enthusiasm. I am not sure what 'cleaned for Nitrox service' means. 'Cleaned for oxygen service' would imply something specific, although at your stage, it wouldn't yet offer particular advantage.

Also I have a question about fins. Are scuba pro jet fins the only way to go?? Is there anything else that is DIR acceptable?? I have Sherwood Kinesis 12's right now.

The recommendation is for 'stiff blade fins' with attachment springs rather than plastic buckles. SP jets happen to be the way a lot of people go. Others like Turtle fins, or Rocket Fins. Probably, the bigger considerations involve using a fin that has spring straps rather than plastic buckles, is comfortable for the diving YOU do, and fits the boots on your exposure suit. I personally use Jets with my drysuit, and Mares Quattros with my wetsuit, and like both. As your rig evolves, you might want to try some other fins (e.g. 'borrow' fins that your dive buddies use to see how you like them) before making a different purchase.

if I wanted to get rid of my Oceanic Probe LX what is the best way of doing that ebay?? Since my shop isn't much interested in taking it in on trade or anything.

eBay is probably as good as any other site. Unfortunately, you may need to be prepared for it to sell for considerably less than what you paid for it, if you purchased it new. The only used one on eBay right now isn't selling at $250, and there are lots of new ones listed. The market for used jacket BCDs does not appear to be terribly robust.

 

[battles2a5]

I dig Salvo's lights. Great service, great lights and they use Brightstar bulb (so does and Dive Rite) which is really quite tough compared to the Welch-Allyn in the Halcyon. BUT!!! if the price is right snatch it up! Just take care of the head. GOOD CARE. HID bulbs are not cheap.

On another note, a 10w will get you going... but in todays market save a little more cash and get somthing bigger. Most every one has a 21w, or bigger like 25 and 50

Dive Rite uses Welch-Allyn bulbs, not Brightstar. They are fragile, which is why you get the coozy for the light head and a storm case. Salvo lights are much more durable, just toss it in the dive bag and go.

 

[c6six]

Well looks like I lost out on those tanks. I guess they got sold the morning I was going to come down and give him money for them. They wanted 500$.

I guess I'll wait and save for a Salvo light then too. What is a good all around size the 21w HID I would assume?? What about going l.e.d.?? I see that my dealer has Green Force, but I guess people don't like them as well because of the twist on thing. Makes hard for signaling and such, is that right??

I will wait and see if I can try a few different brands of blade fins.

Back on the tank note, I read that the lp tanks can be proffered as when you fill them with different mix's your mix is more accurate at a lower pressure. Also often you can get lp overfilled allot of the time. Meaning that the lp 112's would hold about 150 at 3,ooopsi. The hp 130's would hold less than 112 at 2640psi.

I know this has been touched a bit, but what is the better way to go?? Or isn't there one??

 

[ianr33]

As regards tanks, a low pressure 104 is "essentially" the same tank as a HP 130.

In an ideal world I would probably get the 130's but in practice I have a set of 104's.

Why? I bought them used for $600 which is a heck of a lot cheaper than new 130's would have been. Only possible downside to 104's is some places might not fill them to a "good" ! pressure.
Cave country is not a problem in this respect.
Have you ever picked up a set of 104's/130's ?

As for a primary light I have a 10W Dive Rite. Works fine for me. If you have a trust fund a 21W might be nice but its really not needed. Whatever you choose either get a focussable light or one with a very narrow fixed beam.

How much are you expecting to spend on gear and initial technical training?

 

[c6six]

I've picked up a set of hp 100's, I know with the 130's I'll be adding another 20 lbs, but I'm young and sturdy enough to lug them around. That and I'm sure I could use the extra gas.


The light I'm going to wait a while on, but what about Solus??

I'm taking a dry suit course the end of May, and possible buying a close to new suit. That not included in my cost I'm looking at spending 1,500 - 2,000 in the next 2-3 months.

I have:
-2 apeks xtx 100's, which I have hoses for already.

-a suunto vytec (another place I could have saved money, if I had really done my research) which will be a good bottom timer / depth gauge. getting a wrist mount for it from deep sea supply.

-suunto sk7 compass, getting a wrist mount for it from deep sea supply.

-a couple of princeton tec lights will have to do for now.


What I'm getting:
-back plate and wings 30-40# single 60# double, ( 1,200$ ish)

Thoughts on getting:
-hp130's (1,000$ ish) doesn't leave much room

-an al 40, and al 80, (320$ ish) now hear me out on this one, the reason I am thinking about this is I can use the 80 for back gas now, and the 40 as stage/deco, gives me a chance to get some dives in w/ dry suit, and practice w/ a stage at my side b4 throwing doubles right at me. Then when I get doubles I would have 80 and 40 for stage / deco's. My only questions about this is how many people really use 80's for stage / deco's? This way would save me a little cash for right now.



I was set on the 40# lift singles rig, I read on GUE that 30# should be all you need. So I should go w/ 30 #??

 

[syntaxerrorsix]

Have you completed a single dive since this thread began?

I'm thinking that would be your best bang to buck ratio, as well as the most pertinent.

Equipment cannot replace experience, as long as what you have is serviceable or you have the ability to rent gear you should be diving. No sense in asking someone else what will work for you when all they really know is what works for them

 

[c6six]

Have you completed a single dive since this thread began?

I'm thinking that would be your best bang to buck ratio, as well as the most pertinent.

Equipment cannot replace experience, as long as what you have is serviceable or you have the ability to rent gear you should be diving. No sense in asking someone else what will work for you when all they really know is what works for them

Nope, not a single dive. I thought there was going to be a dry suit class at the beginning of this month, but it got moved to the end. So until then no diving, as after the class I'm buying a dry suit.

I am getting the back plate and wing b4 the class. Also I just want to have an idea of the equipment am / should be looking at in the future. The rate at which I get the equipment is certainly always going to be 2nd to diving. Hence not buying the dry suit till after the class, only buying the backplate and wing b4 the class, cause I don't think it would go all that well in BCD I have now.

The reason for all of this questioning now, so early in the game! Is simply that I know how I operate. If I don't have a good idea of what I want a while before I get there, then as I get there, or near that level I will jump on a piece of equipment, or a "good deal." Examples of this would be my current BCD, Suunto Vytec (money that could have been much better spent). I'm the first one to admit that I am getting considerably ahead of myself with equipment information. Getting ahead like that gives me a sense of security though. Certainly not in my diving skills, I know gear doesn't make the diver. I just don't want to make many more equipment mistakes.