Getting a "+" rating on hydro w/o a REE number

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Rob9000

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I have a a Faber LP95 that does not have a REE number stamped on it. From reading other posts and calling a couple of hydro places, it seems:
- While a hydro facility can do the REE calculation, most will not since it involves more work and engineering calculations...and apparently DOT frowns upon doing the REE calculations.

- It may be possible for Faber to provide a REE if you give them the tank serial number info, then it is up to the hydro place if they will honor a fax or email you hand them from Faber.

- It is possible that the place you get your fills from will still fill to + rating even w/o the + being stamped with the last hydro

- Without the + rating, my LP 95 is really a stout LP 85

Is that pretty much where things stand or is there another angle on this? I wonder how often a the person filling will check for the + on the current hydro...especially on a dive boat where gear is crowded and they are rushing to get things done.

Has anyone been successful in getting a REE number from Faber?

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/archive/index.php/index.php/t-195649.html

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/archive/index.php/index.php/t-67985.html

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/tanks-valves-bands/127630-steel-tank-volume-question.html

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/tanks-valves-bands/133069-re-hydroing-get-plus-rating.html

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/ta...10-overfill-plus-rating-steel-lp-tanks-4.html
 
Just get it off a newer Faber 95 that does have it. Since the Faber 95s have all been made to the same DOT specification, the REEs should be the same. This is one of those things that just isn't rocket science, though a lot of people try to make it so. But by all means try Faber and see what they can tell you, since an official looking letter would of course be better.


I have a a Faber LP95 that does not have a REE number stamped on it.
 
Most of the Faber LP95s I've seen have been REE75. I have seen one that was REE73, although it wasn't quite as nicely shaped as the others. It also had an "i" somewhere on it too -- maybe that means it's "irregular"? It's exactly the same diameter and height as the others, but the curve at the neck isn't quite the same. Hard to describe over the internet, and it's so small a difference that most people wouldn't see it.
 
Most of the Faber LP95s I've seen have been REE75. I have seen one that was REE73, although it wasn't quite as nicely shaped as the others. It also had an "i" somewhere on it too -- maybe that means it's "irregular"? It's exactly the same diameter and height as the others, but the curve at the neck isn't quite the same. Hard to describe over the internet, and it's so small a difference that most people wouldn't see it.
I have the OMS LP98s which look just like LP95s. They are stamped REE 73.
 
If you know the REE and you get the results of the hydro test you can determine for yourself if the tank qualifies for a + if that would make you feel better about stamping the + yourself. I always ask for a copy of the test results.
I fill my own so I don't need the tank stamped with the + but I know if the tank qualifies for it.
 
If you know the REE and you get the results of the hydro test you can determine for yourself if the tank qualifies for a + if that would make you feel better about stamping the + yourself. I always ask for a copy of the test results.
I fill my own so I don't need the tank stamped with the + but I know if the tank qualifies for it.


I don’t know if anyone would ever bother to check, but with hydro facility identification number clearly stamped as part of the hydro date, now a day it is real easy to check if any stamps are legitimate. I personally wouldn’t stamp the “+” on a tank myself, but it is easy for me to say that since I located a local hydro facility that will do it for my steel 72’s.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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