Gear check and advice - wall of text haha

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Quick Update

The Dive Shop agrees with the initial gear list with a couple of exceptions:

1) Believe the Perdix AI is overkill and are suggesting a Suunto Cobra console. They suggest the console will be superior for hunter gathering and won't get in the way like a watch. I agree about the getting in the way to some degree, however have done very little research on console units.

2) The best package deals they have includes the XTX50 with XTX40 Octo. Saves quite a bit, however the savings might be lost if they have to convert to the primary donate setup.

3) They are also suggesting the Dive Rite Transpac is the harness to go for

4) They are also recommending the Dive Rite Stainless Steel Light back plate, no reason given at this stage.

Anyway, thought I would run this by you guys to get some more advice given how helpful you have been so far!

1. just no. A. the suunto algorithm is terrible. B. you still have to unclip it to look at it so you gain nothing in convenience, and C. just no

2. that's fine, the XTX40 can be DIY converted to adjustable if you buy the knob on ebay for like $25, or you can swap it around. Alec Peirce has a good video on how to tune them. Should just be a couple hose lengths that are changed so they shouldn't charge you extra. The primary donate setup is vastly superior for spearfishing btw, that would be a non negotiable thing.

3. not with the exposure protection you are talking about wearing, that's a terrible choice

4. same as #3
 
Hi fellow Kiwi,

I second the idea of the Mares Puck. Have had one for years and happy with it. It will grow with your needs as you advance.

Not so happy with the idea of a dry suit for cray diving. I use a dry suit when "smelling the roses" but switch to a 5 over 5 two piece wet suit for serious cray diving. When cray diving, your odds of success often depends on covering a lot of territory. I found that the extra drag caused by the dry suit wears me out much more quickly. Repairs to a dry suit are not cheap either.
 
Quick Update

The Dive Shop agrees with the initial gear list with a couple of exceptions:

1) Believe the Perdix AI is overkill and are suggesting a Suunto Cobra console. They suggest the console will be superior for hunter gathering and won't get in the way like a watch. I agree about the getting in the way to some degree, however have done very little research on console units.

2) The best package deals they have includes the XTX50 with XTX40 Octo. Saves quite a bit, however the savings might be lost if they have to convert to the primary donate setup.

3) They are also suggesting the Dive Rite Transpac is the harness to go for

4) They are also recommending the Dive Rite Stainless Steel Light back plate, no reason given at this stage.

Anyway, thought I would run this by you guys to get some more advice given how helpful you have been so far!
Oh gosh dive shops are so predictable. You try and break out of the "big-name expensive bcd and recreational reg setup" and they try to push you right back in.

1) Overkill... define overkill. They seem to define it as buying something you won't want to upgrade from later. That is not a very good definition. Consoles get in the way of diving often. They drag on the bottom. They catch on things. They get free from their catch strap device and play hide and seek with you when you want to check your depth and anything else that got shoehorned into a massive oversized console. I really hate consoles. I am sure there must be lots of people who love them, but buying a console seems like a good way to rebuy gear later to me. If they want to sell you an inexpensive wrist-mounted DC I could buy the logic, but a console? Nope.

2) Up to you, but don't give in on the primary donate setup. Check the link for the details. Primary donate works really well with BP/W.

3) Recommending the more expensive harness that is more like a regular recreational bcd... what a shock. You can spend the extra money if you want to, Dive Rite is good stuff, but I sure wouldn't. Once you get a normal BP/W harness dialed in the only thing the transpac offers is more failure points.

4) Unless they have a good reason I would ignore that. Backplates should be selected as part of your weighting system, and a lot of that is based on exposure protection. Given your diving area, I'd pick a heavy SS BP every time.

Good luck. Remember that LDS recommendations are normally based on what works best for them and their business, not what is going to work best for you. That is not to say the people making these recommendations are not good, experienced divers wanting to help, but prying those people out of their comfortable box can range from difficult to not worth it, at least in my limited experience.
 
Quick Update

The Dive Shop agrees with the initial gear list with a couple of exceptions:

1) Believe the Perdix AI is overkill and are suggesting a Suunto Cobra console. They suggest the console will be superior for hunter gathering and won't get in the way like a watch. I agree about the getting in the way to some degree, however have done very little research on console units.

2) The best package deals they have includes the XTX50 with XTX40 Octo. Saves quite a bit, however the savings might be lost if they have to convert to the primary donate setup.

3) They are also suggesting the Dive Rite Transpac is the harness to go for

4) They are also recommending the Dive Rite Stainless Steel Light back plate, no reason given at this stage.

Anyway, thought I would run this by you guys to get some more advice given how helpful you have been so far!


RE: 4) I purchased Dive Rite BP/W Package myself this summer and after some research I decided to go with Dive Rite LITE steel backplate instead of regular one. Reasoning was that I didn't want to purchase a separate backplate for traveling. LITE saves on weight and this way I have the same setup for cold water diving locally (Lake Ontario - around 8'C) or for warm water diving when I travel

RE: 3) Harness choice . Initially i chose Basic harness with for my setup and now I'm seriously considering a harness with Quick Release (QR version). Sure it gives an extra failure point with platic buckle but convenience is also important.
I found it extra inconvenient to remove BP/W with basic harness in the water especially when wearing a thick wetsuit/thick gloves etc ( Had to do this in the water as we were diving of zodiac boat)
 
Last edited:
RE: 4) I purchased Dive Rite BP/W Package myself this summer and after some research I decided to go with Dive Rite LITE steel backplate instead of regular one. Reasoning was that I didn't want to purchase a separate backplate for traveling. LITE saves on weight and this way I have the same setup for cold water diving locally (Lake Ontario - around 8'C) or for warm water diving when I travel

RE: 3) Harness choice . Initially i chose Basic harness with for my setup and now I'm seriously considering a harness with Quick Release (QR version). Sure it gives an extra failure point with platic buckle but convenience is also important.
I found it extra inconvenient to remove BP/W with basic harness in the water especially when wearing a thick wetsuit/thick gloves etc ( Had to do this in the water as we were diving of zodiac boat)

you can put a QR on your existing harness. One of two ways to do it provided you have an extra foot ish of webbing on your harness.
Option one is to use a waist belt buckle
Option two is to thread a buckle on there and keep it in with triglides
 
These work: SubGravity Backplate Harness Stainless Steel Slider although they do work better when the webbing gets wet and softer. Also available in derlin.

PS the thing I find extra inconvenient when removing the kit in the water is my fanny pack tries to fall off into the murky depths.
 
Thanks guys appreciate the commentary :cheers:

I have basically gone back and spelled out exactly what I am after. They will obviously sell whatever I ask for and they do seem to be very good people which is great.

TBH the item that blows the cost out of the water is the Perdix AI + Transmitter. However, my gut says just bite the bullet and never look back.
 
TBH the item that blows the cost out of the water is the Perdix AI + Transmitter. However, my gut says just bite the bullet and never look back.

So are you going to dive in low vis much? -- If so, you want an OLED/TFT screen, and if you look at computer with those, I think you'll find that perdix w/o transmitter isn't any more expensive than any of 'em. You could buy a slimline SPG for now, you'd probably want to have one anyway, and buy the transmitter later.
 
Dive Rite Voyager XT Wing

Die Rite Stainless Steel Backplate

Dive Rite Harness

Apeks XTX200/40 ‘or’ Dive Rite XT Advanced package

Shearwater Perdix AI + analog PSG backup

Have I missed anything....

You don't offer much satisfaction to the usual Scubaboard advice providers if you already selected all the right gear :p

Go ahead...

I can offer you a little bit of advice about the regs, since I dive XTX200-40 and my girlfriend XTX50-40... In single tank I find that the 200 first stage routes hoses better (comparison between both of them fitted with a 5th port) so if the price difference is very low (for us it was) I suggest you to buy the 200.
A 30 lb wing offer plenty of lift, 35 is exactly as good. Ignore the shop advice on everything (standard harness, wrist computer and standard plate)
Unfortunately I don't have a Perdix (couldn't afford it) but I see them sometimes and they are easier to read on someone else's wrist than my Galileo on mine. AI is very nice to have.

Just 2 cents from an inexperienced diver ;)
 
Thanks guys appreciate the commentary :cheers:

I have basically gone back and spelled out exactly what I am after. They will obviously sell whatever I ask for and they do seem to be very good people which is great.

TBH the item that blows the cost out of the water is the Perdix AI + Transmitter. However, my gut says just bite the bullet and never look back.
Probably. You could also do your OW and even AOW with your existing freedive computer in gauge mode if it has that function. You only need depth and time if you are diving on tables, and you can get the DC later. Your air pressure can be read with your slimline SPG, which you need to have as part of your reg setup even with an AI DC. It is not a bad idea to integrate gear into your diving life one new thing at a time. You are not going to be taking a nice new Shearwater into the OW pool! (other than maybe the first time)

But if there is no fiscal benefit to you in waiting until after OW to get your long-term DC then you might as well get it now.
 

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