G260 Stuck Inhalation Adjustment & Faceplate

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redt1de

Registered
Messages
25
Reaction score
1
Location
SoCal
# of dives
100 - 199
Hi all - Have two question very noob questions on the G260...

Have a G260 second stage that hasn't seen activity in about 6 months as its on another set up I don't use very often. The external cracking pressure adjustment (the metal knob itself) wont turn. I suspect that I either have some sand jammed somewhere or likely a bit of salt caked in there. Note that I always soak my regs for at least 2 hours in warm water after each dive - whether in salt or fresh water - but its totally possible I didn't do a perfect job on the last dive and the salt won the battle. I've wrapped the knob in a rag and tried to crank it lightly with some channel locks (in both directions). No luck getting it to budge. It's currently set at the midpoint, so I'm not too worried about use, but I do want to keep everything functioning. How much pressure can I safely put on that knob with the channel locks - perhaps I'm being too gentle? Any thoughts on cause besides doing a poor job of soaking/rinsing? Other ideas on getting the cracking pressure knob to budge? Never had this issue with my other 3 G260s, so it doesn't seem like this is a wide spread issue, at least on my batch, but curious if anyone else has had this happen. I'll be dropping it off for a service in 6 months, with probably not too much activity in the meantime, but I like to tinker so would enjoy the opportunity to work the minor fix myself.

Also, while we are chatting G260, I'm struggling to get the faceplates off any of my G260s. I read some posts and I pulled the plastic pin but cant seem to get the faceplate to budge. Tried turning in both directions but can't them to come loose. Any help here would be much appreciated.

Thanks all!
 
Try soaking it for a week. Then a light tap longitudinally on the adjustment knob. If that does not work, repeat and try again. I would avoid the pliers until you are ready to accept some damage.
 
For the faceplate, try using some of the grippy rubber mesh that you line drawers with or something similar to get a better grip on the faceplate.
 
Try soaking it for a week. Then a light tap longitudinally on the adjustment knob. If that does not work, repeat and try again. I would avoid the pliers until you are ready to accept some damage.

Going to kick this off tonight, seems simple and elegant. Plus I'm traveling for 8 days, so hopefully I'll be pleasantly surprised once I get home. Super glad I didn't torque the heck out of the knob - thanks for the note of caution.

For the faceplate, try using some of the grippy rubber mesh that you line drawers with or something similar to get a better grip on the faceplate.

My wife is going to love this, but great idea! If I am looking at the faceplate, do they unthread by turning clockwise or counterwise? I don't visit cave country but I know removable faceplates are a requirement for underwater cleaning. I presume once I clean those threads and work them a bit they will be easier to remove. Or do folks carry something grippy? I guess the palms on some gloves have a bit of tack, so maybe that helps. Just curious.

I'm a fan of heat & cold, so freezer and sink....

In the freezer, do you put the first stage rigged with second? Or just the second?
 
The faceplate turns counterclockwise just like a jar lid.

The adj knob is not an easy one to treat with hot and cold but you could try the whole reg is warm water and then just the adj knob on some ice. The problem is that thin stem will not conduct much heat so you may not have much joy.
 
For the faceplate, try using some of the grippy rubber mesh that you line drawers with or something similar to get a better grip on the faceplate.
I used an old bicycle tube with good success on a stuck HOG faceplate.
 
Channel Locks are not acceptable.

N
 
Last resort? Never tried this but seems plausible in theory.

Warm the whole reg in warm water, as warm as your hand can tolerate. Then hit the adjustment knob with aerosol starting fluid (ether). That may have the best chance of chilling it down quickly. Try not to freeze the plastic. Don't know how brittle that would become. I'd cover the exhaust manifold area well. I have no idea what that would do to the diaphragm. I got some [Liquid Wrench] on a diaphragm once trying a similar stuck removal of a corroded part (ebay purchase for parts). The results were almost immediate and not pretty.
 
The last seized adjustment know I had was resolved after 3-5 sessions in the heated ultrasonic..... no damage was imparted to the regulator (that wasn't there already)...
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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