Freeflow on boat?

[seeker242]

So I have a brand new atomic Z2. Jumped in water. Switched to snorkel and accidentally submerged 2nd stage with mouthpiece up. Started free flowing, which is normal. Couldn't get it to stop by submerging it properly or adjusting the tune valve. Had to clasp it with my hand, which worked. Did a dive fine, although did not use purge button at all, came back onboard with 700 PSI. Pressed the purge button on the boat, not very hard and it started freeflowing on the boat. Could not get it to stop without clasping it with my hand.

Does anything sound strange here? I'm a very new diver but I've never seen anyone's reg freeflow on the boat just by pressing the purge. And all the rental gear I've used in the past, if it started freeflowing on while on the surface, you just submerge it, turn it to the proper orientation and it stops. I don't know if this is normal or not! Does all the above sound normal?

Thanks!

 

[Smiler1968]

I'd take it back to where you purchased it. It's brand new, whilst you might expect a free flow as it touches the water, it should not be doing that from a purge.

Next time you have a free flow, stuff your thumb into the mouth piece. That will stop it. Don't bash it. I see many people giving their life support equipment a quick club!!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[timz]

Gently put 2 fingers to cover the mouthpiece.

 

[jbomb001]

Although not a good sign I have seen this on regs that are over tuned to minimum cracking effort. I'd have it looked at by your lds.

Sent from my galaxy S5 Active.

 

[TheRealScubaSteve]

I've got a primary that cracks very easily, but a quick tap on the mouthpiece will stop a freeflow. If it bothers you, just have it adjusted.

 

[timz]

I've got a primary that cracks very easily, but a quick tap on the mouthpiece will stop a freeflow. If it bothers you, just have it adjusted.

Although not a good sign I have seen this on regs that are over tuned to minimum cracking effort. I'd have it looked at by your lds.

Sent from my galaxy S5 Active.

Sorry. Cracks means freeflow?? Sorry for my noob question.

 

[uncfnp]

Timz. I see "cracking effort" and "cracking pressure" used interchangeably. It is the amount of effort it requies to move the lever into the open position and allow gas to flow through the regulator. Another way to put it is the amount of "suck" a diver must apply to get air. The lower the cracking effort = less resistence to breathing = easier to breathe. So if a regulator "cracks" it is open and alowing gas to flow. The freeflow occures if the regulator stays open or "cracked" even after the purge is released or the diver stops inhaling.

So in this context crack means open and the freeflow occurs if the "crack" does not close as it should. Its a generalization but typically the easier to crack, the easier for it to stay cracked.

Jbomb001's reference to over tuned means the regulator's cracking effort is set low so it will breathe easy but may also then too easily freeflow. Some divers that service their own gear will purposely tune a regulator this way. Others may "detune" a regulator, typically pony regs or backup regulators, so that it is less likely to freeflow.

If you haven't yet, read the Sticky at the top of the regulator forum thread list. Number 10 tells how to check your regs cracking pressure.

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/regulators/346813-regulator-inspection-checklist-rev-7-a.html

Noob to Noob

 

[Bob DBF]

Since its new, I doubt if it is an IP problem but... If I have a free flow I check the second and the first.


Bob

 

[timz]

Timz. I see "cracking effort" and "cracking pressure" used interchangeably. It is the amount of effort it requies to move the lever into the open position and allow gas to flow through the regulator. Another way to put it is the amount of "suck" a diver must apply to get air. The lower the cracking effort = less resistence to breathing = easier to breathe. So if a regulator "cracks" it is open and alowing gas to flow. The freeflow occures if the regulator stays open or "cracked" even after the purge is released or the diver stops inhaling.

So in this context crack means open and the freeflow occurs if the "crack" does not close as it should. Its a generalization but typically the easier to crack, the easier for it to stay cracked.

Jbomb001's reference to over tuned means the regulator's cracking effort is set low so it will breathe easy but may also then too easily freeflow. Some divers that service their own gear will purposely tune a regulator this way. Others may "detune" a regulator, typically pony regs or backup regulators, so that it is less likely to freeflow.

If you haven't yet, read the Sticky at the top of the regulator forum thread list. Number 10 tells how to check your regs cracking pressure.

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/regulators/346813-regulator-inspection-checklist-rev-7-a.html

Noob to Noob

Thanks buddy. Helped alot. Appreciate it.

 

[Mr Carcharodon]

Take the hose off at the regulator, press the purge button while turning the second stage orifice in probably less than a eight of a turn, put the hose back on and see if it is fixed. It probably will be. If it is hard to breath turn it back out a little. This should take 5 minutes if you have everything at hand and maybe 30 minutes if you have hunt around. Driving down the dive store and back will likely take longer. Someone will probably come along and say you need exotic tools and advanced training. Keep in mind that the exotic tools consist of two wrenches, a screw driver and possibly a hex key. The required advanced training consists of having held a screw driver in your hand once or twice. But of course you will be told none of that is possible because it is life support equipment and you will surely die if you touch your own regulator. It's not hard give it a try.