For Sony users!
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Cecil
Contributor
High Jet. We the few, the brave and crazy. Sony users unite. Here's a repeat of some advice for the setting for a Sony.
First off congratulations and have fun. There are a few choices to be made in the settings, here's the one's I use most; Flash On and the low power setting, macro On, if it's out of range of the macro it's to far (switch off for other divers or big fish), the ASA setting is your one control over the shutter speed. I have a tendency, in anything other than bright sun/clear water, to use 400. I'd rather have more noise than a motion blurred shot. All other settings I use Auto.
The camera is slightly negative so a lanyard is suggested. I use a spiral plastic lanyard that I keep short until I'm at depth. Getting in and out of the water, I put the camera in a BC pocket for protection. At depth it goes under the front BC strap when not in use.
The other issue is battery life/fogging. If you leave the camera On for to long it will fog and you may not have enough battery life for two dives. This means it's important to anticipate your shots so the camera has time to boot up before you shot. This also leads into the half shutter press to minimize shutter lag. What I do is when I see something to shot, I grab the camera and at the same time hit the On button. Swing up the camera and set your distance, then half press the shutter, frame and press the shutter. Camera Off and back under the strap.
Here's a tip for the post processing. One of the characteristics of the Sonys is that it does shift towards the green underwater and will need some tweeking.
Photo Editing
Don't listen to the cultists, they're like Amway salesmen, religious zealots and DIR divers. They've got to justify they existence, somehow.
Here's a link to my home page with many examples from a Sony DSC-P5.
Home Page
First off congratulations and have fun. There are a few choices to be made in the settings, here's the one's I use most; Flash On and the low power setting, macro On, if it's out of range of the macro it's to far (switch off for other divers or big fish), the ASA setting is your one control over the shutter speed. I have a tendency, in anything other than bright sun/clear water, to use 400. I'd rather have more noise than a motion blurred shot. All other settings I use Auto.
The camera is slightly negative so a lanyard is suggested. I use a spiral plastic lanyard that I keep short until I'm at depth. Getting in and out of the water, I put the camera in a BC pocket for protection. At depth it goes under the front BC strap when not in use.
The other issue is battery life/fogging. If you leave the camera On for to long it will fog and you may not have enough battery life for two dives. This means it's important to anticipate your shots so the camera has time to boot up before you shot. This also leads into the half shutter press to minimize shutter lag. What I do is when I see something to shot, I grab the camera and at the same time hit the On button. Swing up the camera and set your distance, then half press the shutter, frame and press the shutter. Camera Off and back under the strap.
Here's a tip for the post processing. One of the characteristics of the Sonys is that it does shift towards the green underwater and will need some tweeking.
Photo Editing
Don't listen to the cultists, they're like Amway salesmen, religious zealots and DIR divers. They've got to justify they existence, somehow.
Here's a link to my home page with many examples from a Sony DSC-P5.
Home Page
Hi Cecil. I hoped you saw this and would pipe in. I think there are more Sony users out there than we think. When I was on Bonaire and dove with Darlene and Denise we all had cybershots of one model or another.
I read your tips before that trip and it was a great help. I have my camera set up with a wrist lanyard and a snap ring. It's clipped off to a D ring while I enter and exit but is always on my wrist when I'm wet. I always have it in hand with one finger on the power button. When I see something I want to shoot, it's automatic that I hit the power and by the time I'm in position the camera is ready. I've gotten three dives from one charge easily. I did find the flash would overpower many shots as I took several of the same pics with it on and off. Never take a pic of a tarpon with it on.
The biggest thing I found was you can get too close in macro mode. Seems that the Sony just can't focus when you really want that close shot. Cecil, have you tried to use the optical zoom and just back off the subject a bit?
I know what you mean about the green tendancy. I just got Photoshot E3. It is my new best friend. Colors are tough for me so autofix is a must!
I have a bad habit of forgetting to switch from the power button to the shutter. Did that several times last trip and kicked myself every time. I hope I have that down as I will be back in Bonaire in March.
Just a few of my observations. Take care Cecil.
Jet
I read your tips before that trip and it was a great help. I have my camera set up with a wrist lanyard and a snap ring. It's clipped off to a D ring while I enter and exit but is always on my wrist when I'm wet. I always have it in hand with one finger on the power button. When I see something I want to shoot, it's automatic that I hit the power and by the time I'm in position the camera is ready. I've gotten three dives from one charge easily. I did find the flash would overpower many shots as I took several of the same pics with it on and off. Never take a pic of a tarpon with it on.
The biggest thing I found was you can get too close in macro mode. Seems that the Sony just can't focus when you really want that close shot. Cecil, have you tried to use the optical zoom and just back off the subject a bit?
I know what you mean about the green tendancy. I just got Photoshot E3. It is my new best friend. Colors are tough for me so autofix is a must!
I have a bad habit of forgetting to switch from the power button to the shutter. Did that several times last trip and kicked myself every time. I hope I have that down as I will be back in Bonaire in March.
Just a few of my observations. Take care Cecil.
Jet
Cecil
Contributor
Been there done that with the power button. The flash overpowering a macro shot is also a problem I've had. Now days I have a tendency to set the exposure low (-2ev) and turn up the flash to compensate. This gets me more white light and does not overexpose.
The Sonys seem to do a pretty good job on focusing close although it will miss if the subject is white on white. I've learned to bracket the distance along with the exposure on those shots you really want to turn out.
Tarpons and anything outside 3' are always a challenge. I have a tendency to leave the flash on to get the exposure and deal with the resultant backscatter is Photoshop. I just hate the natural light green/blue/no color shots. YMMV.
The Sonys seem to do a pretty good job on focusing close although it will miss if the subject is white on white. I've learned to bracket the distance along with the exposure on those shots you really want to turn out.
Tarpons and anything outside 3' are always a challenge. I have a tendency to leave the flash on to get the exposure and deal with the resultant backscatter is Photoshop. I just hate the natural light green/blue/no color shots. YMMV.
excellent, a new forum for the ten of us. 
just kidding of course. but you have to admit we are a rarity.
regardless, i like my p-10. the best feature is the size.
it tucks away nicely in my drysuit pocket. of course feature
wise it has a much to be desired, but for a point and shoot
i can't complain.
i've had the housing down to 130 fsw repeatedly with no problems.
i've taken it on really rough shore dives and it survived unscathed,
although i really hate sand in my gear.
i keep it set on the min. time to shut off, which i think is a minute.
never had a fog problem, but have missed a few shots cause it
was off. of course if you tap a button it starts the countdown over.
so you can keep it on that way.
i've taken plenty of good shots not in macro mode and some with
a sea & sea wa lens attached. in macro mode i've also learned
that there is such a thing as too close.
and of course green is my favorite color.
just kidding of course. but you have to admit we are a rarity.
regardless, i like my p-10. the best feature is the size.
it tucks away nicely in my drysuit pocket. of course feature
wise it has a much to be desired, but for a point and shoot
i can't complain.
i've had the housing down to 130 fsw repeatedly with no problems.
i've taken it on really rough shore dives and it survived unscathed,
although i really hate sand in my gear.
i keep it set on the min. time to shut off, which i think is a minute.
never had a fog problem, but have missed a few shots cause it
was off. of course if you tap a button it starts the countdown over.
so you can keep it on that way.
i've taken plenty of good shots not in macro mode and some with
a sea & sea wa lens attached. in macro mode i've also learned
that there is such a thing as too close.
and of course green is my favorite color.
Welcome XJ! Guess I'll have to start using names here now. Give me a rundown of your setup and what you use for settings. Is that WAL easy to change out? Another addition I've been considering. Can you put some more of your pics in the gallery for us to see?
Lets see
Im just using the P-10 in the PHA housing. I keep it in my dry suit pocket attached to a lightweight retractable cord. I purchased the Sea & Sea conversion lens adapter ring because my brother has a MMII set up and I figured I could use his lenses. To date Ive only used his 16mm wide angle. The adapter ring (Sea & Sea part no. 58101) has been discontinued for some time now. It snaps onto the black ring surrounding the lens port of the housing. The lens then fits onto the bayonet of the adapter. As far a changing out the lens, it is just like the MMII system. You can use a lens caddy and bring all lenses youll be using and change them out underwater. There is also a shield on the adapter that covers the flash that has a screw hole for a slave driven sync cord. So you can run an external strobe that will trigger off the internal flash. I have no experience with this. You can twist the shield of the adapter ring out of the way of the internal flash but the 16mm lens is so wide that it blocks half the flash. I imagine this would not happen with one of the thinner macro lenses. Sea & Sea must have recently updated their site to include their latest system chart [http://www.seaandsea.jp/systemchart/sony.html] as you can see with the adapter and the sync cord you can use all of those accessories.
As far as settings for the camera, Im always experimenting. I do have it set to shut off asap. I use the P mode because that offers the most flexibility with options. I havent messed with the exposure compensation, but plan on, sometimes there is just too much light. I keep the AF on center and metering on spot, in hopes that my centered subject is most in focus. Although I have taken good shots on multi AF and multi metering. I have had luck putting it on focus infinity while using the WAL at distance. Ive messed with the [psudo] white balance using auto, daylight and fluorescent, I cant say Ive had any better results with either setting, but havent done any type of extensive testing. I do set the ISO to 400 when its dark and 100 when its bright. I definitely noticed the grain difference between the two. I always keep it on fine and e-mail. Flash always on low. The flash is only good close up and all but low are too bright. I havent messed with effects, sharpness or saturation. I have changed the contrast to high for low light wide angle shots that I know Ill have to change to B&W. I always leave the internal lens set to the widest angle.
I have a bunch of albums now, here are a few, you can hit the slideshow button at the top to scroll through.
This album is one of the first I did with the camera and for all shots I have the 16mm attached. [http://gallery.wreckvalley.com/DutchSpring-October-24-25-2003] It is at our quarry on an incredible vis day, Id say about 60-70. Without the WAL most of those attractions will not fit on the stock screen. Im no more that 15-20 away from any subject.
This album is from NJ, the wreck of the Algol. [http://gallery.wreckvalley.com/The-USS-Algol-July-17-2004] The first five underwater shots had the WAL on. It really needs a lot of light to work good and there really wasnt much down there at 120. The vis was only 20 as well. So the second dive I left it on the boat. Of course the vis improved to about 50 and it brightened up. Needless to say all of the remaining shots were with just the housing and the camera. Some are macro with the flash on, some are not.
This album is from NC, on the wrecks of the Titan and Indra. [http://gallery.wreckvalley.com/album08] All shots are just with the camera and housing, no WAL. The only setting differences are flash on or off and macro on or off.
Keep in mind that I don't have photoshop, so for the most part these are unedited. A little cropping and some slight color adjustment.
I forgot to mention the other reason why I like this camera. Its also my everyday land camera. It fits in your pocket and is easy to carry, so I usually always have it with me. It takes pretty good land pics for pocket camera that doesnt really have a great lens on it. So I dont say, Damn, Wheres your camera when you need it, anymore. I guess I shouldnt post any pics from the outdoor lingerie model shoot I walked by a few months back.
Im just using the P-10 in the PHA housing. I keep it in my dry suit pocket attached to a lightweight retractable cord. I purchased the Sea & Sea conversion lens adapter ring because my brother has a MMII set up and I figured I could use his lenses. To date Ive only used his 16mm wide angle. The adapter ring (Sea & Sea part no. 58101) has been discontinued for some time now. It snaps onto the black ring surrounding the lens port of the housing. The lens then fits onto the bayonet of the adapter. As far a changing out the lens, it is just like the MMII system. You can use a lens caddy and bring all lenses youll be using and change them out underwater. There is also a shield on the adapter that covers the flash that has a screw hole for a slave driven sync cord. So you can run an external strobe that will trigger off the internal flash. I have no experience with this. You can twist the shield of the adapter ring out of the way of the internal flash but the 16mm lens is so wide that it blocks half the flash. I imagine this would not happen with one of the thinner macro lenses. Sea & Sea must have recently updated their site to include their latest system chart [http://www.seaandsea.jp/systemchart/sony.html] as you can see with the adapter and the sync cord you can use all of those accessories.
As far as settings for the camera, Im always experimenting. I do have it set to shut off asap. I use the P mode because that offers the most flexibility with options. I havent messed with the exposure compensation, but plan on, sometimes there is just too much light. I keep the AF on center and metering on spot, in hopes that my centered subject is most in focus. Although I have taken good shots on multi AF and multi metering. I have had luck putting it on focus infinity while using the WAL at distance. Ive messed with the [psudo] white balance using auto, daylight and fluorescent, I cant say Ive had any better results with either setting, but havent done any type of extensive testing. I do set the ISO to 400 when its dark and 100 when its bright. I definitely noticed the grain difference between the two. I always keep it on fine and e-mail. Flash always on low. The flash is only good close up and all but low are too bright. I havent messed with effects, sharpness or saturation. I have changed the contrast to high for low light wide angle shots that I know Ill have to change to B&W. I always leave the internal lens set to the widest angle.
I have a bunch of albums now, here are a few, you can hit the slideshow button at the top to scroll through.
This album is one of the first I did with the camera and for all shots I have the 16mm attached. [http://gallery.wreckvalley.com/DutchSpring-October-24-25-2003] It is at our quarry on an incredible vis day, Id say about 60-70. Without the WAL most of those attractions will not fit on the stock screen. Im no more that 15-20 away from any subject.
This album is from NJ, the wreck of the Algol. [http://gallery.wreckvalley.com/The-USS-Algol-July-17-2004] The first five underwater shots had the WAL on. It really needs a lot of light to work good and there really wasnt much down there at 120. The vis was only 20 as well. So the second dive I left it on the boat. Of course the vis improved to about 50 and it brightened up. Needless to say all of the remaining shots were with just the housing and the camera. Some are macro with the flash on, some are not.
This album is from NC, on the wrecks of the Titan and Indra. [http://gallery.wreckvalley.com/album08] All shots are just with the camera and housing, no WAL. The only setting differences are flash on or off and macro on or off.
Keep in mind that I don't have photoshop, so for the most part these are unedited. A little cropping and some slight color adjustment.
I forgot to mention the other reason why I like this camera. Its also my everyday land camera. It fits in your pocket and is easy to carry, so I usually always have it with me. It takes pretty good land pics for pocket camera that doesnt really have a great lens on it. So I dont say, Damn, Wheres your camera when you need it, anymore. I guess I shouldnt post any pics from the outdoor lingerie model shoot I walked by a few months back.
Well after much messing around, I uploaded some photos into my gallery!!
All were taken with my trusty Sony P9. I also have a Sea&Sea DX-25 strobe and a 20mm WAL (also Sea&Sea).
Personally I don't have the problem with the photos going green.
I think the biggest problem with the P9 is actually the time it takes for the flash to recharge, many shots missed waiting for this.
Strongly thinking of upgrading to a P200, shorter cycle time for the flash, and can manually select the aperture.
All were taken with my trusty Sony P9. I also have a Sea&Sea DX-25 strobe and a 20mm WAL (also Sea&Sea).
Personally I don't have the problem with the photos going green.
I think the biggest problem with the P9 is actually the time it takes for the flash to recharge, many shots missed waiting for this.
Strongly thinking of upgrading to a P200, shorter cycle time for the flash, and can manually select the aperture.
Great a new forum for all the "walkman-divers"...
Ok...my main pet-peeves with the sony, mine´s a P10 (hoping you´ll tell me how stupid I am to not have figured out how to fix it):
*"Nightvision pictures" (seems I´m not the only one) although sometimes these turn out pretty cool...
*Flash, when I dive in tropical waters I usually have it switched off completely (for OW) because it seems to "mess up" the pictures...actually I keep it switched of most of the time and use my HID for lighting up the darkness...
*Movies...I just havent gotten this to work well...I´ll shoot while pentrating [insert name of cool wreck] all the while thinking how great it´ll look when I show my friends only to be dissapointed. Any and all tips for beginners would be appreciated...
That´s it for now ;-)
Ok...my main pet-peeves with the sony, mine´s a P10 (hoping you´ll tell me how stupid I am to not have figured out how to fix it):
*"Nightvision pictures" (seems I´m not the only one) although sometimes these turn out pretty cool...
*Flash, when I dive in tropical waters I usually have it switched off completely (for OW) because it seems to "mess up" the pictures...actually I keep it switched of most of the time and use my HID for lighting up the darkness...
*Movies...I just havent gotten this to work well...I´ll shoot while pentrating [insert name of cool wreck] all the while thinking how great it´ll look when I show my friends only to be dissapointed. Any and all tips for beginners would be appreciated...
That´s it for now ;-)
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