Flooded Inon Z 330

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Where do you guys buy it from and what does it cost?
 
I use the Nauticam "silicone" grease for all my O-rings, including the yellow Inon ones. It works fine so far. As far as I know, the Nauticam grease is similar or identical to Tribolube, see also here:

Wolfgang
 
Where do you guys buy it from and what does it cost?

Got my last one from rEvo (purely as was ordering some other things from there) - 58 Euro with VAT, for 56g / 2oz
But given you seem to be based in US, just google around, its made there, so plenty of shops sell it. Maybe you can even get it directly from the manufacturer:
 
Where do you guys buy it from and what does it cost?
Dive Gear Express. A 2 ounce (57g) supply is $50 usd and will last quite a few years for most people. Get it in a syringe and you can easily refill your little Nauticam tubes. This is the cheapest I've found it.

edit: I found this on Amazon if you need slightly more because your o-rings are extra dry:

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I am wondering whether this has anything to do with the new dome design. I sometimes pack my strobes into my dive bag and check in. Front face of the old inons are flat, so, even there is weight applied on them inside the luggage, glass it self is not under pressure from external forces.
This is a good thought. Maybe try write into Inon for their consideration for future designs.
 
You got bad advice from someone! Maybe they owe you a strobe?

The Inon strobe has an active, sliding o-ring so I must be lightly lubed each time you open it. I rarely remove the o-ring, just put a tiny bit of tribolube and spread it around the circumference. Also lube active o-rings. You don't need to lube static o-rings like an Ikelite strobe/battery pack.
So just to make sure I’m following, you have to lube the battery cap o-ring every time you replace the batteries?
 
So just to make sure I’m following, you have to lube the battery cap o-ring every time you replace the batteries?
Yes, extremely lightly. No need to remove the oring each time unless it is dirty. This is what you to with all active orings, every single time.
 
Yes, extremely lightly. No need to remove the oring each time unless it is dirty. This is what you to with all active orings, every single time.
Hmm, coming from ikelights with static o-rings that’s a tad annoying sounding, to be honest.

I’ve been leaning towards the new s220s, but that gives me slight pause. Seems like an opportunity to get some dirt or sand in there. Especially if on a live aboard, I like to swap batteries between dives (never hurts to have fresh packs!).

Maybe I’ve just been spoiled by Ike on this aspect though.
 
Hmm, coming from ikelights with static o-rings that’s a tad annoying sounding, to be honest.

I’ve been leaning towards the new s220s, but that gives me slight pause. Seems like an opportunity to get some dirt or sand in there. Especially if on a live aboard, I like to swap batteries between dives (never hurts to have fresh packs!).

Maybe I’ve just been spoiled by Ike on this aspect though.
I shore dive constantly and don't have an issue. Liveaboard diving tends not to be sand. No reason to change batteries every dive. You should always be good for two.
 
Hmm, coming from ikelights with static o-rings that’s a tad annoying sounding, to be honest.

I’ve been leaning towards the new s220s, but that gives me slight pause. Seems like an opportunity to get some dirt or sand in there. Especially if on a live aboard, I like to swap batteries between dives (never hurts to have fresh packs!).

Maybe I’ve just been spoiled by Ike on this aspect though.
Needing to rebuild Ike battery packs is the most annoying thing... World class service, world class pain-in-the-ass designs...
 

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