Nice pics. Really good eel shots. Some of the yellows and oranges are a little strong. Might back off the saturation slightly, but very pretty all around.
first time in saltwater with new sp350
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OP
LiteHedded
Contributor
yea the colors do kinda make your eyes bleed on some of them don't they?Larry C:
I'll try and dial back some of the reds and yellows when i get home
rgee9
Guest
I just wanted to say great pics and the colors were amazing. I have a SP-350 as well and I was wondering if you could share your settings in Macro and Wide Angle with me. My pics did not come out quite as colorful (more bluish tones) I currently just have an internal flash as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Rob
Thanks
Rob
ejg62
Contributor
LiteHedded:
In the past I have used cloudy WB and saved my photos in JPEG format. However, recently I have switched to RAW format. This gives a great deal more flexibility in WB and exposure settings in Photoshop once the picture is transferred to a computer. With PSE using the RAW Editor I can set the WB to what the picture was taken in, Auto, daylight, evening, flash and several more. Also there is an eye drop if placed over a white object and clicked the WB will adjust automatically. In addition, the expose can be adjusted if it is not good while taking your picture. Once your picture is adjusted I click open and the photo is opened in PSE where I can crop and other items before saving it as a jpeg.
The RAW format does take (much) longer to save and is considerable larger. With my Oly C5060 a jpeg in higher quality takes 1.5mb while a RAW photo is 7mb.
I am now a convert to RAW and will only use that format.
Jim G
sunkarm
Contributor
what is PSE?
OP
LiteHedded
Contributor
photoshop elements?
I shot these in raw.
and the cloudy wb i used worked pretty well. I didn't have to adjust it on many of them.
my settings are iso 50 for both
the ones with the black backgrounds or sometimes the really dark blues was 1/500 i think and 1/125 for the lighter blues (which works much better without an external strobe) I really had to crank up the exposure compensation on some of them that were done with the 1/500.
not sure what the aperture is but if you look in my gallery I think the exif info is all correct
I'm not sure if I will stick with raw or not. I like being able to save pictures that are too dark etc. but my 1 gig stick filled up before I finished my second dive. the images are about 11 megs each.
like I said I think these mymode settings came from someone with external strobes so they will need some tweaking but overall I was pleased with the results
*edit* nm the iso is 50 for the 1/500 shots and 100 for the 1/125
I shot these in raw.
and the cloudy wb i used worked pretty well. I didn't have to adjust it on many of them.
my settings are iso 50 for both
the ones with the black backgrounds or sometimes the really dark blues was 1/500 i think and 1/125 for the lighter blues (which works much better without an external strobe) I really had to crank up the exposure compensation on some of them that were done with the 1/500.
not sure what the aperture is but if you look in my gallery I think the exif info is all correct
I'm not sure if I will stick with raw or not. I like being able to save pictures that are too dark etc. but my 1 gig stick filled up before I finished my second dive. the images are about 11 megs each.
like I said I think these mymode settings came from someone with external strobes so they will need some tweaking but overall I was pleased with the results
*edit* nm the iso is 50 for the 1/500 shots and 100 for the 1/125
Oh you shot those in RAW. Then it shouldn't be a problem to set those colors to match whichever taste you like Even mine I mean you should be able to get w/b postprocessed correctly even without setting it while diving. It could give you better reference point though. BTW you propably should check what is the native iso number of your ccd and use it (my guess is between 100 and 200). Did a quick browse but didn't find what the native iso of sp 350's ccd is. Anyway since you can't replace your ccd (as is the case with film) you are using the same "film" all the time and sensitivity is adjusted programmably. Someone who knows more about these sorts of things could propably discuss this in more detail.
Even mine I mean you should be able to get w/b postprocessed correctly even without setting it while diving. It could give you better reference point though. BTW you propably should check what is the native iso number of your ccd and use it (my guess is between 100 and 200). Did a quick browse but didn't find what the native iso of sp 350's ccd is. Anyway since you can't replace your ccd (as is the case with film) you are using the same "film" all the time and sensitivity is adjusted programmably. Someone who knows more about these sorts of things could propably discuss this in more detail.ejg62
Contributor
sunkarm:
PSE = Photoshop Elements. Sorry I was too lazy to type the whole thing out.
Jim
LiteHedded:
I sympathize. I now have 7 gigs of xD. 5 of the H type and my original 2 M type. I find the RAW worthwhile for exactly the reason you noted. I can save just about anything. I've saved quite a few pictures where surge blew kelp right in front of my strobe or pushed me over to where the strobe was behind a rock (or I stupidly mispositioned it or the stupid cheapskate slave I was using didn't fire) Thankfully, you can get a 1gig for $34.95 on sale these days and the 2gigs are finally coming out.
Since the M type's are so darned slow on RAW, I now use them in my spare "topside" SP. Couldn't resist the bargain at half the original price, and I know someday I'll flood it.
OP
LiteHedded
Contributor
mine is an H but it's still slow. at least relative to the jpeg
it's a pain when you're shooting something rapidly moving AWAY from you
it's a pain when you're shooting something rapidly moving AWAY from you
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