First Stage Mirror Setup

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The other downside is that your reg and hoses are now highly exposed to impact damage. Consider the elevated risk if you are doing any reef/wreck swim-throughs as the reg is in a prime area to take a hit.
 
The other downside is that your reg and hoses are now highly exposed to impact damage. Consider the elevated risk if you are doing any reef/wreck swim-throughs as the reg is in a prime area to take a hit.
Great point. Hopefully the resort has the provalves and it's a non issue. I will try out the turret down 5th port long hose setup regardless because I think it should make the primary hose routing more efficient.
 
Can you post some pictures of what you are doing now?
 
I can't unfortunately. I used rental tanks and had limited access to the pool to do gear checks. But thanks for the tips, it'll work out fine.
 
@RobPNW,

FWIW, when I know I will be using a (non-convertible) K-valve or J-valve or Y-valve, I will switch out my regulator's DIN connector for a"standard" yoke.

I really don't like using a DIN-to-yoke connector (because of the clearance issues you describe).

Also, I wear things turret down, whether DIN or yoke, for the best clearance and the best hose (and regulator) protection.

rx7diver
 
My goal for a trip next week is to get used to my new fins, mask, regs, and long hose setup, but I'm using a soft pack. For the next trip, I was planning on throwing a travel plate into the mix. If the clearance still bugs me and only Yoke tanks are available, I guess I can always take a lightweight STA with me as well. Seems like that would offset the thing back about how much the adapter pushes it forward.
 
@RobPNW,

FWIW, when I know I will be using a (non-convertible) K-valve or J-valve or Y-valve, I will switch out my regulator's DIN connector for a"standard" yoke.

I really don't like using a DIN-to-yoke connector (because of the clearance issues you describe).

Also, I wear things turret down, whether DIN or yoke, for the best clearance and the best hose (and regulator) protection.

rx7diver
What they said. Spot on.
 
One thing you may want to try is rotating the tank on its vertical axis slightly so the valve is rotated forward a little bit. That gives the dual advantage of giving a little more clearance for the regulator as well as making it a bit easier to reach the valve in the water in the unlikely event you need to (always good to practice that once and a while IMHO.)
 
One thing you may want to try is rotating the tank on its vertical axis slightly so the valve is rotated forward a little bit. That gives the dual advantage of giving a little more clearance for the regulator as well as making it a bit easier to reach the valve in the water in the unlikely event you need to (always good to practice that once and a while IMHO.)
You mean rotated a few degrees anti-clockwise on the vertical plane? I am working on this too. I tried both the angled down 5th port as well as turret up approach - unfortunately my local land based LDS had only a slightly longish short hose that I bought and the bends in the extra length looks fugly. When I got my BP/W shipped from EU also I ordered a standard length corrugated hose but the LPI hose supplied was mismatched in length and meant for the longer corrugated hose! So two bends in two hoses make my setup look really bad. Waiting to buy shorter hoses from another shop now. Either ways I don’t like the tower configuration looks with turret up.

Is a 22” short hose measured from metal tip to tip where it is threaded or only the rubber part? I need to order the right length (22” vs 24”) from a remote shop so knowing this bit before hand is crucial.
 
22" (regulator to metal, or 22.25" tip to tip) is the longest I'd go for single tank short hose.
 

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