First set of regulators for a newbie?

[runsongas]

the tx50 set from DRIS is showing at 300 now which makes it hard to beat. leaves room to get your own spg and LPI hose. DIN conversion from LP for 65 if desired (not sure DRIS can match that). you end up spending a little bit more than the DGX hollis set, but with an additional yoke fitting instead of resorting to a converter and second stages with metal barrels and heatsinks suitable for cold water.

 

[Pao]

If I would buy a reg set today, these will be my choices:

1. The DRIS TX50 is a good deal, just make sure you get the full warranty. I think it is "new old stock" unless they were surplus from a batch intended for the military. The DST 1st stage is currently the price-performance sweet spot for the Apeks line. I still have 3 TX50/TX50 conversion 2nd stages and I can't tell the difference from the XTX50 breathing resistance-wise, though it is a bit easier to tune the XTX50 2nd stage during service.

2. Second hand regs which regularly pop-up here in SB - if you have an LDS who can service them or if you are willing to have them shipped for service (DGX/DRIS etc...). I actually assembled a complete set (2 regs) of sidemount regs from parts I bought here . When buying 2nd hand always factor in the cost of service.

3. Deep6 or HOG, price performance-wise they cannot be beaten, though as before, you need to have access to service

As you can see, I am a sealed diaphragm guy, this is because I live in the tropics and almost exclusively dive salt water and rinse water may not be always available. So it depends on your needs. But what I learned from my previous purchases is that you should buy the best regulator which your budget will allow for the moment. You can always ask for people's opinions here once you have narrowed down your list. Good Luck!

 

[stuartv]

the tx50 set from DRIS is showing at 300 now which makes it hard to beat. leaves room to get your own spg and LPI hose. DIN conversion from LP for 65 if desired (not sure DRIS can match that). you end up spending a little bit more than the DGX hollis set, but with an additional yoke fitting instead of resorting to a converter and second stages with metal barrels and heatsinks suitable for cold water.

According to DGX - who I bought my DR XT regs from, the Hollis plastic barrel is better for cold water, because it won't conduct heat like a metal barrel does. Personally, I've used my Hollis 212 regs a fair bit in the local quarry, which is normally about 38F on the bottom. I had trouble with them once, when I was still a very new diver and I was swimming very hard at depth and, I believe, overbreathed them and they started freeflowing. I have used them quite a bit there since then with no issues.

 

[Jim Lapenta]

Actually metal barrel regs are preferred for cold water because they conduct and hold heat. This is why there is a heat sink on the HOG seconds as well. You want the ambient water temp to help keep the reg from freezing. The metal barrel also helps to hold the heat of your exhaled breath. The 212's have been known to freeze up in very cold water.

 

[CptTightPants21]

According to DGX - who I bought my DR XT regs from, the Hollis plastic barrel is better for cold water, because it won't conduct heat like a metal barrel does. Personally, I've used my Hollis 212 regs a fair bit in the local quarry, which is normally about 38F on the bottom. I had trouble with them once, when I was still a very new diver and I was swimming very hard at depth and, I believe, overbreathed them and they started freeflowing. I have used them quite a bit there since then with no issues.

Right, because when you are diving in cold water you really want something that WONT help conduct heat.

 

[CptTightPants21]

Although "conduct" heat is technically incorrect. Moving from the tank, into the first stage, through the hoses, and into the 2nd stage causes the air to become colder than the surrounding water. The metal air barrel helps bring the air you are breathing closer to the ambient temperature.of the water.

 

[runsongas]

adiabatic cooling

 

[cerich]

The heat from your exhaled breath passes over the metal barrel, the metal retains some of that heat at the same time it is being cooled by adiabatic cooling. The plastic barrels just don't hold the heat and are more likely to get ice.

Also, water generally (unless really cold salt water) is a higher temp than freezing, the metal absorbs heat from the water as well, also helping to prevent ice from forming in the working bits and causing problems

The most challenging cold diving is in salt water below freezing where the moisture in your breath freezes and causes problems.

 

[Centrals]

My work horse(rec and tec) since 1998 has been Apeks TX50 + DS4. 18yrs old and still going strong.
US$299.00 for a complete set is WOW!!! I assume DRIS would still provide the usual after sell survices.

 

[Jherny]

I agree with Northernone

TX50 Regulator Set Yoke - Dive Right in Scuba

DRiS is having a sale this weekend. I would say the above is almost impossible to beat for a new diver looking for their first reg set.

Ok I'll definitely look into it. I've never heard of it.