First drysuit has arrived

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

As a side note, as of 2020, they've stopped advertising and selling the Fusion here in Japan, it's not in the catalogue. No idea why. I'm guessing perhaps low sales, locally made dry suits are most common here, or it's about to be replaced with a new model. I did hear a new one was going to be released later this year sometime.
I know that during 2019 there were quality problems with the Fusion drysuits made in Mexico. Aqua Lung moved all manufacturing back to Canada. They had a lot of warranty work to do on the bad suits with a smaller production crew. It took over 8 weeks for me to receive my dry suit after ordering.
 
I know that during 2019 there were quality problems with the Fusion drysuits made in Mexico. Aqua Lung moved all manufacturing back to Canada. They had a lot of warranty work to do on the bad suits with a smaller production crew. It took over 8 weeks for me to receive my dry suit after ordering.

Yep, I had a Fusion that needed the inner core replaced. Took something more than eight weeks to get the replacement, I think.
 
Yep, I had a Fusion that needed the inner core replaced. Took something more than eight weeks to get the replacement, I think.
How has the new core been doing Marie? Get some time on it yet. Dry and warm?
 
How has the new core been doing Marie? Get some time on it yet. Dry and warm?

Two quarry dives in November. It was nice and dry. Now I’ve just had it in the pool once a month over the winter.
 
First shore dive in the new Fusion Tech yesterday. 58 FSW and temp of 48F. Found that the air moves around in the Fusion differently. No bubble that can move around quickly. Gas seems to flow through the underlayers a little more evenly. Venting from the drysuit is slightly slower and I need to keep aware of venting in advance more than I was used to.

The ellipse dry glove system leaked from the right side ring connection. With the o-ring on the outer part of the suit side ring, it is difficult to get the glove on without pinching the o-ring. I went with the Ellipse due to cost and may need to pony up for something more reliable. Anyone have issues with the Ellipse dry glove rings and how did you solve it?

After the dive my Evo 4 boots were floating in the rinse tank. Took about 1lb in each to sink them. During the dive my feet felt a bit light but not out of control. My fins are slightly negative and sink slowly in salt water when (not if) I drop them. o_O I'm going to try and move weights or the tank around to adjust trim as I prefer to figure it out without ankle weights if possible.

Some SB members reported getting a brass zipper in their Aircore replacement. My new suit has all plastic zippers. Not yet sure if this is a plus or minus but I could easily self don. My overall impression of the new Fusion Aircore Tech is that it will work comfortably and safely for the next few years.
 
Congrats on your new suit. And congrats on your location. I used to live on BI. Graduated from good ole BHS. *sniff*

I think my own personal experience is quite common among drysuit divers. My feet want to float. The only way I have ever been able to have good, effortless (i.e. while motionless) trim in a drysuit is by having fins that are very negatively (as fins go) buoyant. I use Hollis F1 fins with all of my drysuits. They are size XL and are 2# negative in fresh water. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that are no other fins on the market that are more negatively buoyant than the F1s. The F1s also happen to be very comfortable - way more so (to me!) than ScubaPro Jet fins (which are also known for being negatively buoyant). And the F1s work very well. Plenty of power and work very well for all types of technical finning techniques.

Any time I have tried to use more buoyant fins, I end up being foot-light.

If your EVO boots are either too long or too narrow, well, I had the same problem with a number of different drysuit footwear options. I finally tried the NRS Paddle Wetshoes and they fit great. Right width and right length all in one shoe.

https://www.rei.com/product/881348/nrs-paddle-wetshoes-mens

I took my drysuit with me to an REI so I could put my drysuit socks on, stick my feet in the legs of the drysuit, and try the wetshoes on to get the right size. Being on Bainbridge, I'm pretty sure you have an REI not too far away... :wink:

Lastly, I don't know what you were taught in your drysuit class. I do know that some drysuit instructors teach their students to leave their BCD empty and use their drysuit only to control their buoyancy. I disagree with that and teach my students to only put enough air in their drysuit to make it comfortable. The minimum amount and no more. And then use their BCD as normal to control their buoyancy.

If you are currently using your drysuit to control your buoyancy, you will most likely find that if you change to only putting just enough air in to take off the squeeze and let your undergarments loft fully, then use your BCD to control buoyancy, managing the air bubble inside to be easier.
 
Congrats on your new suit. And congrats on your location. I used to live on BI. Graduated from good ole BHS. *sniff*

I think my own personal experience is quite common among drysuit divers. My feet want to float. The only way I have ever been able to have good, effortless (i.e. while motionless) trim in a drysuit is by having fins that are very negatively (as fins go) buoyant. I use Hollis F1 fins with all of my drysuits. They are size XL and are 2# negative in fresh water. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that are no other fins on the market that are more negatively buoyant than the F1s. The F1s also happen to be very comfortable - way more so (to me!) than ScubaPro Jet fins (which are also known for being negatively buoyant). And the F1s work very well. Plenty of power and work very well for all types of technical finning techniques.

Any time I have tried to use more buoyant fins, I end up being foot-light.

If your EVO boots are either too long or too narrow, well, I had the same problem with a number of different drysuit footwear options. I finally tried the NRS Paddle Wetshoes and they fit great. Right width and right length all in one shoe.

https://www.rei.com/product/881348/nrs-paddle-wetshoes-mens

I took my drysuit with me to an REI so I could put my drysuit socks on, stick my feet in the legs of the drysuit, and try the wetshoes on to get the right size. Being on Bainbridge, I'm pretty sure you have an REI not too far away... :wink:

Lastly, I don't know what you were taught in your drysuit class. I do know that some drysuit instructors teach their students to leave their BCD empty and use their drysuit only to control their buoyancy. I disagree with that and teach my students to only put enough air in their drysuit to make it comfortable. The minimum amount and no more. And then use their BCD as normal to control their buoyancy.

If you are currently using your drysuit to control your buoyancy, you will most likely find that if you change to only putting just enough air in to take off the squeeze and let your undergarments loft fully, then use your BCD to control buoyancy, managing the air bubble inside to be easier.
 
I agree with stuartv, although I have done it, a drysuit is not the best means for buoyancy control. Besides it could defeat the purpose of the drysuit. I live in Canada and dive dry most of the time, year-round in Bare NexGens and love them. I haven’t owned a 5 or 7 mm wetsuit in probably 20 years. I find a shell drysuit is way more comfortable than a 5 or 7 mm wetsuit. If I’m diving in a warm river (no thermocline) or in the Caribbean, only then do I switch to my 3mm wetsuit. Here are a few of my thoughts regarding drysuits, for what they are worth.

The main issue with a drysuit not providing the best buoyancy control is that on most, the vent is on your shoulder facing down while swimming. A good purge requires shifting to the vertical with your left shoulder sitting high, where as your BCD is designed for buoyancy control while swimming horizontal. Just plain easier to use.

The thin shelled drysuits provide excellent temperature control, not just warmth. Add or subtract undergarments (and a little lead) to suit the water temp. Use the air to fluff it up to warm up or purge it out to cool down. Of course, fluffing or purging is tied to doing the opposite in you BCD to maintain buoyancy . E.g. In warmer water I may only wear sweats and if I get too hot, I can purge air out to cool down.

In one of our deep quarry dives on a hot summer day in Aug. the bottom temperature is still a few degrees above the freezing point at 130ft (4 thermoclines on the way down), but 75F on the surface. A drysuit will provide adjustable warmth throughout this dive. It’s nice to purge and cool down when wearing heavy undergarments.

In general, when ascending from a deep dive I typically shift upright (and wiggle) to purge my drysuit at about 30 to 25 ft to ensure the majority of the air is out. Especially on ice dives when I may be using a little extra air to improve warmth. …I also add an extra 2 lbs of lead to allow for extra air.

Buoyancy will always be a little more finicky in shallow depths (down to 25ish feet), since eg the change in air volume from 10 to 15 feet is a few times more than volume change from 80 to 85 ft …Boyles law stuff. By default, you will be managing a little more air with a drysuit. …similar to carrying more lead than needed.

I would suggest drysuits are a little bulkier and as such, seem to have more drag. So are a little more effort with swimming compared to a wetsuit.

There are actually times when moving air to your feet can be handy. I sometimes do it for close up photos on the bottom so I can hang inverted. This is very hand when dropping head first into weeds to get bottom photos. …It also works really well if you want to walk upside down under the ice – great photo op. Of course, every drysuit diver needs to perfect the tuck/kick and flip to get back up right.

As for light feet, mine stay fairly neutral with Tusa X-pert split fins – great for easy swims, not great for frog kicking on bottom. My Hollis F1’s load my feet down a bit, but are great for maneuvering and frog kick

As for zippers, my old NexGen has a metal one and my newer one has plastic. I favor the plastic. It zips easier and is actually more durable. If you fold a metal one too much it can break and they are challenging to replace. I once saw a video of someone hitting a plastic zipper with a hammer to show how durable they are.

…sorry for the long read
 
@DarrynSami

Waterproof Ultima glove system is what I have on my Fusion. Simple to use.
 
I disagree, I get my boyancy control at the same time I get the squeeze out or off, so much easier to just do the slight roll to vent, keeps your hands free. To each his own, I tried the b/c but using the suit is better, warmer and easier for me. Try both ways, ignore dogma from all and see what works for you.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zef
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom