First computer

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Define "best user interface".

You have to realise that there's only so much you can do with a 2" TN segment display and a button or three. You want "best", buy a large OLED display with settings changeable via a desktop app.
 
The best user interface is on the Shearwater Perdix. It is also the best computer out there. It is also 850$ which while not the most expensive is still a serious investment. My wife convinced me not to "waste" my money on a cheaper version which would be harder to read and use at depth and I have appreciated having followed her advice. I realize it is not what you are asking for but the user interface on the cheaper ones is a pain. I need the manual to remember the button functions on my old i300. If I push the wrong button at depth and get myself into the wrong menu.....

The cheap computers remind me of the old casio watches. The Perdix reminds me of my first smart phone. When will they put a camera in one?
 
All analogies suck. At this point I'd seriously consider swapping my Note for a Nokia 3310 if it worked in the usofa.

I :heart: the user interface on my Leonardo. I push the button and see battery status, I jump in the water and see current depth and NDL. Everything I need, nothing I don't.
 
So you want to buy a new computer?

Wrist versus console is personal preference. I only use wrist, but I have friends that only use console. I like mine. They really like theirs. And I will admit to an occasional twinge of very slight jealousy when they just throw on their rig and go and I have one extra piece of gear I have to remember to put and take off. I'm not changing to a console, but I can see both sides of the fence.

Personally, I would spend a little more for an Oceanic Geo over a DG03 any day of the week. The Geo is normally found online for $350, but it seems to be very easy to get an offer from LeisurePro or other places to actually sell it for more like $280. The size difference is big and you don't necessarily see it in the pictures. The DG03 is the size of a hockey puck. The Geo is like a normal digital wrist watch.

Also, computer size does not necessarily translate to ease of reading. You need to look at the actual display. There are "big" computers that don't show any more info and are not any easier to read. The actual numbers on the display are the same size as on other wristwatch-sized computers. They just have more blank space around them. I haven't compared them side by side, but until I do, I will be a little skeptical that the bigger (overall) DG03 is actually any easier to read than a Geo. Maybe it is. But, the Hollis TX-1 I had was not any easier to read than my Atom 3.0 and that is a very similar comparison to the DG03 vs Geo.

Also, with the Geo, you can choose to use the same algorithm that the DG03 offers. But, you can also set it to use a more liberal algorithm that will generally give you slightly longer NDL times. The DG03 only offers the one algorithm.

If you get a wrist watch style, you might consider getting a NATO style strap for it. The strap that comes with most watch style computers are like any normal watch strap. That means, if a strap pin breaks, the whole computer can just fall right off your arm. A NATO style strap will ensure that breaking one pin will not let you lose your computer.

I use these on my watch style computers:

NITROX-17

I dive at least one computer on every dive that has one of these straps. 3 mil or 5 mil wetsuit or drysuit. It works fine for me for all occasions.
 
+1 on DGO3 as useful first/backup option. Below is what I wrote elsewhere on in. My recollection on its past issues is they were resolved a while ago. My understanding on its algorithm is that it is ZH-L16c but with essentially fixed gradient factors 100%, i.e. no extra margin, so my understanding is that it is perhaps aggressive not conservative. I'd be happy for more informed info on that. I do like it though.

The Hollis/DGX DGO3 at $200 is useful. I have, use, and like it. As a simple dive comp I think it is great. If puck is the cheapest at $150, I am happy with $200 for DGO3, though it was $350 when I got mine.

Pro: Nitrox 0-100, Gauge mode, backlit, tells you deco stops at time of stop (but not a list of them..), 3x air integration, automatic altitude modes, conservative mode if you want (pretends to be at 2000’), user replaceable battery. Gauge mode is useful for tech if you want that later or to sell used to those that do. I did switch to a bungie mount.

Con: Backlight only when push button, a bit hard for me to read in low vis with out backlight on, $100 cable to download (I do without), no gradient factor, set to 100% FG, does not provide Perdix AI level features.

I do not know the Geo. I would put DGO3 in the list to look at. I do not know the other simple dive comp options.
 
+1 on DGO3 as useful first/backup option. Below is what I wrote elsewhere on in. My recollection on its past issues is they were resolved a while ago. My understanding on its algorithm is that it is ZH-L16c but with essentially fixed gradient factors 100%, i.e. no extra margin, so my understanding is that it is perhaps aggressive not conservative. I'd be happy for more informed info on that. I do like it though.
No, PZ+ is a proprietary version of Buhlmann ZH-L16C. The specific changes made to the native algorithm are not published. The NDLs for PZ+ are generally middle of the road in the liberal to conservative spectrum, more conservative than DSAT
 
1000 times. Shearwater. i own 2 Petrel 2's and love them. the only real difference in the Petrel to the Perdix is a little size as Shearwater uses the same software in most of their units. will allow rec, and tec, diving. simple enough for any rec diving but also simple advanced tec capable. worth every penny. my 2 cents worth.
 
Ok guys,

Off of my other post I need a computer. So here it is, what's the best for a casual OW diver that plans on expanding to advance and nitrox certifications. Console vs Wrist? Any complications with salt vs fresh water? User replaceable batteries? Etc.. Cressi Leonardo and Giotto have been mentioned a lot in my area. However Deepblu CosmiQ+ Is another brand I've heard tossed about.

Dive computers can be a daunting task to consider/understand or even to try and rationalize what " you" may need or may require. I recommend determining what type of diving your going to be doing? What preferences do "you" have for a computer ( console with hose, wrist console, watch type, Air integrated vs non integrated)? How often are you going to be diving and what depth/limits because a single button puck or leonardo computer may fit your needs. Are you looking for a computer to grow with you? Do your research on each style and brand out there. One website I keep an eye on and use to research computers and help answer the questions I listed above is:
Dive Computer Expert Reviews - Finding the Best Scuba Computers For You

The dive computer wizard now has a presence on Facebook as well. Hope this helped.
No matter what computer you get make sure you like it and understand it. In the end its your gear and your using it so have fun and dive safe!
 
I dive with a Mares Puck and my wife has the Mares Puck Pro. They are both wrist-mount because I hate having a big heavy console to contend with and would rather have a small SPG on a short hose. The computers have user changeable batteries, are capable of air and nitrox to 50%, and and cost less than $200 (the Mares Puck is only $150, but I'd opt for the Puck Pro if buying today for $190).

The only thing they lack is the option to use a bungee mount instead of the standard wrist strap. For this reason I came very close to buying the DG03 mentioned by others above. Not entirely sure why I didn't for the first computer, but for the second it made sense to own a computer similar to my wife.

Of course, I purchased these computers with the knowledge that I won't be doing any technical diving, at least within the lifetime of the computer. That may be a factor for you. For me, this is more than I need for the vacation diving and local lake diving I do.
 
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Of course, I purchased these computers with the knowledge that I won't be doing any technical diving, at least within the lifetime of the computer. That may be a factor for you. For me, this is more than I need for the vacation diving and local lake diving I do.
You can set the Puck Pro to gauge mode and use it as bottom timer for tec dive.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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